Tire wear with 3" lift

looking for help not ignorant comments. I'm stumped I have 3" tuff country with the add leafs in the back. My front driver tire of feathered and no idea why it's doing it. I've had it aligned three times

 

Your pictures don't tell a lot. Did you relocate the front control arms pickup points, and steering components, to restore a reasonable front end geometry? If not look into what this involves. You likely have a negative camber loss problem on bump and a negative camber gain on rebound. Also, your tires may be towing in on corners; having the tires fighting on a corner. Do some Google searches on suspension geometry. Look into static camber, camber gain, roll center, and Ackerman steering.

 

From the bottom picture it looks like your camber on both front tires is out of spec. Could be an optical illusion but it looks like the tops of the tires are significantly outboard from the bottoms.

 

Here's a primer:

http://www.aev-conversions.com/education/60

http://www.aev-conversions.com/education/60

 

They defiantly are. Does putting new ucas change any of that or is that mainly for off roading?

 

UCAs are recommended with a 3" lift.

 

UCAs can help to get things back into spec. They would help for both on and off-road driving. Do you have the alignment report from your most recent alignment?

 

I appreciate the calm, sensible, positive help. Some people on here are just asses. I'm not a tard I'm just stumped

 

The key is to restore the geometry that was just obliterated by the lift. Normally, the movement of the bolt connections, to the frame, corrects the wheel dynamics. Also, the steering pick up points may need to be moved a little to restore proper Ackerman. Next, bump steer must be reduced to an acceptable level. This is usually accomplished with spindles or a bump steer kit. Finally, the front end gets alligned. Also, don't forget pinion nose down angle and driveshaft coupler bearing height (many have to lower that one a little).

 

For someone like me who's never lifted a truck before, but who is familiar with suspension geometry basics (from owning two M3s and other performance cars with aftermarket suspensions, albeit lowered instead of lifted.), I too am also interested to learn the basics of how to correct alignment issues after a 2-3in lift on our trucks.

In for info.

 

The principles are the same, except the truck can "jack" easier than the M3, due to a roll center to close (or above) the CG. To be safe, the "roll arm" may need to be a little longer than a fully set up road race car would target. I am sure there are expensive kits that have all of the geometry corrections, and they may be worth it if you are not a cut and weld type. Just lifting the truck, and not restoring the geometry, makes the truck worse. I am sure you are well aware of that, though, from people that did not properly lower their tuner cars.

 

camber way off there bud. get either adjustable uca, or a better alignment tech. if you can visually see they are out of alignment, you will eat tires. that wear pattern is usually a sign of the toe being out. did you do an alignment?

edit: have you recently rotated tires? if not you may have actual issues if the rear tires are getting chewed up. due to solid rear axle, the only that gets out of alignment is if the axle moved

 

^^^ That... I think once we get up above 2" we run out of camber adjustment. When we lift the suspension it's normal for the tires to want the go positive on the camber meaning leaning out at the top. This causes feathering like you have there.

You need a guy to align it to spec... you should have been told when getting the alignment you have positive camber...??

 

It is also helpful to think about what happens to the camber when the suspension moves. For example, in the case of a lift, if the upper control arm is sloped downward (from the perspective of the frame) at rest, It stands to reason, the upper will effectively push the top of the tire out under bump (or being the outside tire in a turn). If the arc, of the lower control arm is not geometrically matched to the arc of the upper, your camber will likely go way out of spec. (In the case of a lifted SLA arm truck, very positive under bump or turn in).

 

nobody concerned with that being a rear tire showing wear? i missed it too at first, hope its from recent rotation or theres bigger problems since solid axle...

 

yes the rear tire is the one I rotated from the front. I moved it after being aligned to see if it fixed the problem which it did not. the front tire is doing the same again. do they have to be adjustable ucas? i was going to by pro comp uni ball. Here is my latest alignment

 

An observation and hypothesis:

Observed: Your camber is too positive.

Hypothesis: you probably have no negative camber gain in your first few inches of travel (just a thought and should be checked).

 

Did you just ignore what you were told in the other thread?

 

no i did not i was looking for other opinions. I got tired of the dumbass comments and the ignorance of people so I tried a different thread.

 

I have heard that when you are lifted 2-3" a nice sweet spot to shoot for is 0* for toe and camber with about 3* of caster. That is for 2nd gens though so I don't know if it's the same for 3rd gens. I'm also not lifted yet so I cannot confirm from personal experience.