"Wheeler's Anonymous"

Yup, that sounds like me. Manual trans here but there's the occasional "thud" going into first and sometimes other gears. I never paid it that much attention because the R150F transmission is stout but notoriously 'clunky'. But that combined with the grinding/vibrations I'm feeling may be u-joint related.

So many potential things And I guarantee you when I take it to Toyota tomorrow they'll tell me they can't replicate any of it. I guess at the very least I could ask them to take a close look at my u-joints, LBJ's and bushings for me.

 

Pretty sure switching out to a longer spring won't really help at the same rate. A lower rate spring will make it more compliant. Maybe a 500 at 14"

 

That's how I understand it as well. The difference will be negligible. All it will to is move the coil adjustment higher up the c/o. The only way it would help is if you have so much preload that the spring is limiting bump travel. Stiffness is affected more by cal wing than spring rates. In simple terms the spring sets ride height. Ride characteristics are more affected by rebound and compression.

 

The spring on it now is 650#, maybe go 14" 600#?

Do you think they could be rebuilt and revalved to be softer in the beginning of the stroke? Or would the change in valving affect the entire length of travel?

 

@Speed Freek , Curious of your insight on this topic as well. Thoughts?

 

Call up a shop for a quote on a carrier bearing and ujoints. They're wear items, might be worth being replaced unless you know if they were already done recently.

 

I think @YotaGurlIAm is trying to tune out the washboard roads. It's pretty hard to tune out that frequency with coilovers while still being able to to take hits. Might need to air out more.

 

Yes, but even just normal trails, small bump here and there, speed bumps on streets, minor pot holes.. Haha after driving mikes truck many times, I just am reminded how stiff mine feels

 

Try a revalve first since it is cheaper. Then move to spring change if that won't fix it.

 

Yeah that seems like the best bet now. There's rust peeking through the chipped powdercoat on the coils, so eventually id like to get some new ones for piece of mind

 

Tbh, not sure if extended or not. I'll probably just revavle for now and see if that helps

 

During the revalve you change out a spacer...boom extended travel bitches

 

What are the details? I'm down to go Saturday.

 

Had downsouth delete that spacer when they built them. Best advice I've gotten to date to get extended travels without paying the extra couple hundred duckets.

 

Nothing specific as of yet, on wednesday I'll talk to ppl and get some details down

 

I have been doing a little bit of reading on this topic as I just got some used icons. As I understand it with any coilover, digressive or progressive the valving and shims can be changed to whatever the user is wanting/using the shock for. They come from the factory with an overall baseline settings but with a revalve you can change them to be more responsive and smooth at slower speeds or vice versa no matter if they are king, icon, fox etc. Essentially changing your factory digressive shock to a progressive one and the other way around if you choose. still trying to educate myself on suspension set-ups myself so I am as well for your outcome

As for your spring rate madison, I would agree that sounds like a lot right now(650#) with your current front end set-up. But if you are planning to install full skids? Winch? And so-on? in the near future it might be something to think about before you choose to change your springs to something else?

 

Speaking of coilovers, some used 2nd gen's just listed on CL for anyone in the market... https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/pts/5801002839.html

 

What about being on payment in 4x?, straight line of course.
Hi and low

 

I see you