Lifted '16 Tacomas

Full Leaf pack is always better than AAL. If you are looking to get rid of the bro lean, the OME full leaf pack should be good.

I have always heard not to max out your 5100's. I spent a lot of time talking with Marie over at HeadstrongOffroad. She has said that Bilstein 5100's set to .85 on OME 887 coils will give you about a 3" lift. Bilstein 5100 887 set to zero will be about 1-1.5" lift. Bilstein 5100 set to 0 on OME 888 coils will be between a 2-2.5" lift once the coils settle in. Any time you have the coils do the lifting, the ride is going to be a little bit rougher. For the rear to fix the "Bro Lean" should be fine with a 1" block.

 

I ran with the 3 leaf AAL from Wheelers with my 6112/5160 combo and gained about 2" in the rear. The ride quality is very, very good. I've had my truck fully loaded in the bed and towed a 3,500lb trailer at the same time and the rear end held up quite nicely. I was torn on on whether to purchase a full leaf pack such as a Dakar, however I was not really interested in lifting much, so this was a compromise decision.



I'm not displeased with it at all. In fact I have been pleasantly surprised. Much cheaper too.

 

I have the Toytec boss. About 2.5 in he front. Rarely it rubs. Once in a while with the wheels cranked and some rough terrain. It's fine.

 

I thought you where only supposed to set the 5100s on .0 when running OME 885, 887, 888 coils and the coils were used for the lifting?

 

Nope .85 (second notch) is the highest they recommend with 887 coils. Not sure about 885. You can do 888 on .85 setting, but not many people are running it since the 888s are fairly new and there is not enough data on the exact lift height

 

I might have to call Marie again, I was told 885 would give 1.5 on DC, V6, 4x4 and 887 would give 2" lift.

 

With the 5100's set at 0 those numbers are correct but on the low end. They could creep 1/4"+ above those numbers.

 

Ok, Thanks

 

Here are some pics of my 2017 TRD Sport 2WD. I put OME NitroChargers on the front with the 887 springs and Light Racing UCAs.
On the rear, I went with 2" blocks and OME NitroCharger shocks because I didn't want to make the ride too harsh. This is my daily driver.

Wheels are Fuel Maverick 20x9 +1mm offset, with Michelin Defender LTX 305/50R20 tires. They are actually sized more like 285/55R20 tires, with a 10" wide tread and 32.4" diameter.

The side steps are RBP RX-III

 

Why is it that i'm finding so many blocks made like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161891375970?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

9/16 male pin, perfect for the axle side. 5/8 female side, not right for a 9/16 pin to seat into. Why would they make the female side larger than the pin side? Makes no sense at all to me. Shouldn't the blocks have a 9/16 pin and 9/16 top side hole also?

 

With a 3" lift using Dakar packs and extended Bilstein 5100 shocks, am I going to need longer rear brake lines? It's a street truck, it'll never see any real off road use.

 

No rub. No trim. Been full tuck w/ full turn.

 

Hey guys, I have been following this thread but havn't had time to read the whole thing. I have an expedition one steel bumper going on in a couple weeks with a winch. So I'm going to be forced to do suspension upgrades. The OME nitrocharger kit seems like a good value. I'm under the impression i need 886 coils with the stiff shocks. As well as UCAs. Are cheaper UCAs good enough, or should I go billet/other?

The truck will be used for moderate off roading. Not too much rocks, but a lot of jeep trails, mud holes, and riding on property that has recently been clear cut, so driving over stumps and downed trees.

I don't want to buy new wheels unless I have to. So I was thinking of going with 255/85/16 on the stock trdor wheels.

I don't mind doing CMC, but would rather not unless it is actually needed.

Should this setup be good offroad? I dont care about looks, I want more capability.

What would stepping up to an icon/fox kit get me over the OME?

Also, I noticed the icon kits say their UCAs need 17" or bigger wheels. is that all UCAs, or just billet?

Thanks!

 

You'll need 3" of lift, maybe a wheel spacer to fit the 255/85/16. The tire you selected is very narrow so you may not have the need for the spacers but they will probably look kinda silly being so narrow, just my .02 You'll probably lose about 1" maybe 1.5" up front due to the weight of the bumper. An 886 coil is not going to cut it. 888 coil on a Bilstein 5100 at .85 might. 888 coils at 0 on the 5100 yields about 3" so the .85 with the extra weight of the bumper will probably yield right about the same.

 

My 2011 I has 5100's all around, front set at 2.5 stock springs, add a leaf in rear. Leafs are flat! Thinking about getting new 5100's, put with coils off of my 16 on the 11, and putting leaf pack from 16 on the 11. Not sure about reusing add a leaf or getting new ones. Coilovers are longer and stronger I believe, so not sure what setting for front and what I need in back to level. Wouldn't mind being a tad higher than it was! Need to get the 16 back from this regear nightmare first so I don't have both trucks tied up!

 

On an sr5 4x2 I would be happy with the Billies all around if that's what you feel Comfy with, space and block it to what you like. More $ buy an aal, economy buy a small block and space lift kit with you billies call it good. More $$ spindle kit bigger blocks more parts and time...my advice keep it simple , sound and make it look good.,

 

No point in the parts off my 16 sitting in a box in the pole barn. I think put them to use and freshen up the suspension a bit on my daily work truck without spending much $$. It's well earned, I have worked it hard over the last 5 1/2 years! I am thinking the leaf pack is beefed up a little bit over the ones on the 11 also. Here is a couple pics of the 11. Rims and tires off the 16. Once tires wear a bit, they will be up sized and upgraded, but not going to waste them!

 

This is "Kemosabe" waiting patiently while I am talking with master tech at dealership about my regear issues the other morning.

 

Thanks for the help! the 888s are only 3 mil taller than the 886s with a much softer spring rate. ome specifically recommends the 886s for bumpers.

its also an issue of the valving. with stiffer springs obviously you want the shocks to match. there is a stiffer nitrocharger designed for use with 886s. the 5100s, even the new ones, the valving is probably a little soft.

not a deal breaker, but it brings up a question i had about ordering an icon or similar kit. obviously i need stiffer springs, does icon/eibach accommodate that, or would i need to put 886s on the icon coilovers?

i need to order a tire / lift combo in the next few days, and its very time consuming trying to read through all the threads just to know what works.

is there just a tried and true, proven, tire/lift combo that is known to not rub with hard flexing? i dont mind cmc. should i order a kit or just let the shop make one?

thanks, i know this forum is a stickler for n ot repeating themselves and ppl doing their own research. i have read for hours but i havnt seen any threads about wheeling and what rubs and what doesnt. seems like most are doing spacer lifts and the like. nothing wrong with that but doesnt help me.

 

The 886 May compensate for the weight of the bumper but they will not compensate and add 3" of lift. The 888 coils are taller and have a heavier spring rate. 888 set at 0 on a 5100 adds 3" without any aftermarket bumpers. Start there, work your way up. You want as little preload as possible that way you have a nice ride quality.