WHEEL STUD REPLACEMENT

Did some work on the Suspension this weekend and broke a wheel stud (pos Harbor Freight torque wrench, now in trash).

Anybody ever replace one of these (2 gen 4x4)? How much stuff do I have to take apart?

 

shouldnt need to take much apart. remove your rotor and just hammer on the broken stud and it should pop out the back. new one just slide back in its place. i think there is enough room without having to remove anything other than the rotor

 

Oh, yeah, its the front...sweet, now I just have to find the part!

 

Thanks for that .pdf!!!

 

fyi if you disconnect the brake line bracket you can remove the caliper without taking the line loose. will help when reassembling to not have to bleed brakes...

 

Any new link? didn't open for me

 

I'm bringing this thread back to life.
I just broke a front stud off on my 2007 while rotating tires... I was using a very expensive torque wrench.... Dealership was the last place to touch it when they put new tires on. Lol
Does anybody have any part numbers for a new stud? Hoping to grab one at Napa or another parts house, nearest Toyota dealership is 30 miles away.

 

Lazy techs use an impact to put lug nuts back on. Same lazy techs don't use a torque stick.

 

There's nothing wrong with using an impact on lug nuts IF you use a torque stick. I've had cars come into the shop I work at that somebody obviously didn't know what they were doing with an impact because they hard to remove.

 

Key word is torque stick. I'm pretty sure that tool is missing in the majority of quick oil change and tire places that use an impact on lug nuts.

I've personally twisted a 4 way taking off impacted lug nuts. I've also seen much worse. A family member had a Ford Explorer go into the shop to have a spindle replaced. At a picnic 3-4 days later I heard the vehicle rolling in, sounded like rocks in a tin can. I popped the hub cap off expecting to find a loose lug nut. Instead I found 3 of the 5 studs were snapped and rolling around loose in the hub cap.

 

Thanks for the replies everybody, I ran to autozone after I posted that and grabbed a couple extra wheel studs. I had it fixed in about an hour. I ended up pulling the hub/bearing assembly off and knocking the new one in there with a hammer and punch. I used the dorman stud, it perfect fit.

 

You didn't have to knock the new one in. Just get it started a bit with the splines aligned, put an open nut on it and pull it in place with the nut.

 

I tried, couldn't get it to draw in all the way. The splines might be a little bigger on the dorman than the oem. The OEM lug was super easy to knock out, but the dorman took a pretty good lick to seat in. I decided to take the hub/bearing off anyways to see what kind of shape the bearings were in.

 

Get a standard lug nut that the lug bolt can go all the way through. Use the flat side of the lug nut against the hub and crank down with a socket wrench, impact wrench of lug wrench. This should draw the new lug bolt in flush to the back of the hub. Use a little lube to make it easier as well.

 

I've had that problem a couple times at work. I believe they were dorman as well. One of them wouldn't go all the way, even with a snap on air hammer.

 

They weren't that tight.... I wish there was a hole in the dust cover so you could smack em with a punch. I thought about drilling a hole just for that, but didn't. Lol

 

Hi everyone,
I have some badly cross threaded studs that I need to replace. What studs do I buy??? Anything else I am going to need to buy? Front and back??? Thanks

 

For more of this lug nut / stud story check out my build https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/canadian-family-taco-build-and-bs.527692/