Knock sensor code P0325 & P0330

After looking at multiple trends and countless hours of research on google. I was still wondering why I still got a code from the computer saying Knock sensor 1 & 2 Malfunction even after replacing the sensors and wires years ago. Since there was trends about this topic on other websites but TW I finally decided to do my part and giveback to this amazing website and help some people that might have this code in the near future.

Before doing this job be sure to research it first before replace.

Buying the sensors isn't required but if you want to spend the extra money and be worry free you can buy the knock sensors from a local dealership or a Toyota Parts store.

I bought my sensors from: http://www.midatlantictoyotaparts.com/
Instead of spending $220 for each sensor I found this site and only payed $165 each
Knock Sensor - 89615-12090 (This is what my truck took, you can call your local dealership, tell them your VIN and ask them to give you the part number you need for your specific vehicle.)
Sensor Harness - 82219-34010

- Even though any aftermarket knock sensors may be cheaper it ain't worth removing half the engine just to see the codes pop right back up during a test drive.
- The main reason why you get the 2 codes is due to the wiring harness becoming old, cracked, and brittle from years of sitting inside the engine.
- Upon receiving these codes the ECU will think the engine is really knocking putting the whole vehicle in Limp mode to reduce knocking.

Bought some O'Reilly brand knock sensors (Pictures below)
OEM sensors on the left, O'Reilly's on the right
Seeing the comparison between the 2 sensors you can see quite a difference
To sum it up if you ever receive these codes just replace the wiring harness







Hope this helps someone out in the near future. Sorry if this trend is a little messy, first time doing a help-me-guide on TW.

Thanks for the info of these websites http://www.customtacos.com/forum/13-performance/79135-both-knock-sensors-failed-same-day.html

 

Funny enough i just had to replace these in my chevy. Did it three times replacing the knock sensors and the wires. First two times i got bad knock sensors from NAPA. Apparently if there dropped during transit at any point its very likely to break them. So be very careful and pray the box they came to the store in wasnt thrown around.

 

Really? Didn't know anything about that. The OEM sensors I got were packaged really well. But I guess it's luck if you do get a aftermarket knock sensor. But going through the time to tear down half the engine apart isn't worth it to try again.

 

Does anyone have opinions on the sensors off Ebay? I'm not talking about the ones for $20 a piece. Found a pair for $80. I've read over 100 forums involving this problem and figured just replacing the harness would fix the problem. I replaced my harness and still have a P0330 so I'm assuming the knock sensors need to be replaced. I honestly think $330+ for a pair of OEM is ridiculous, but if I need to I will. It would just be nice to save $200. I'm gonna take a multi-meter to them tomorrow and see if I can't ohm check them before I dive into pulling the intake manifold again.

 

I have seen postings on eBay for cheaper knock sensors. Can you really trust them? I say no. If you don't mind replacing them another time (if they still give you the code) I would give it a shot, but $80 for sensors especially for how high those sensors cost a piece just doesn't sound right.

 

I've read the reviews on Amazon for the Beck-Arnley knock sensors for the Tacomas and its just not good. Some people get 3 months out of them, some get 6 months, some get two years. But it's a crap shoot. I guess if you're okay with knowing in your mind you'll do the repair again within 2 years, but you will save 150 bucks, go for it. Just as long as you have realistic expectations, that's all.
The Beck-Arnleys are 80 bucks.

 

Is this the correct part number? Here is OEM Denso for 90 bucks.

OEM DENSO TOYOTA LEXUS KNOCK SENSOR 89615-12040 GENUINE TOYOTA DENSO Part

https://www.amazon.com/OEM-DENSO-TOYOTA-KNOCK-89615-12040/dp/B00Q0IHVC6

 

Maybe it was the 89615-12090

GENUINE OEM TOYOTA LEXUS KNOCK SENSOR Part 89615/12090

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O...9615-12090&dpPl=1&dpID=41ue3RHzxwL&ref=plSrch

 

I used 89615-12090 on my first post for this trend. But as said before check with your dealership and find out the part number. But I rather spend $150 more for sensors that'll last me 10 years or more compared to 2 years.

 

CEL is on and had it checked at Advanced Auto Parts. Code PO333 knock sensor

Are you saying I can just replace the wiring harness and it should clear the code?

 

Yes mostly likely. When you start seeing the knock sensors you should see the wire being old, brittle and hard from the years of heat it has dealt. Someone that replied to this trend actually said he still had a code up even after changing the wiring harness. If you know how to get into the knock sensors I would just replace the wiring harness and see what your ECU will say after clearing the code.

 

The CEL keeps going on and off. One day it will be on and the next nothing...

Was that your experience too?

 

Nope mine was fully on, that might be a sigh saying your wiring harness is going bad.

 

I mean maybe the harness is going bad, but these sensors can and do definitely go out, especially when they are hearing knock. If you've gotta pull the intake mani, suck it up and get new KS for it too. JMO

Before sensors go, they start failing intermittently before completely going out. Definitly replace the pigtail harness while you'r under there, but I'm betting you've got a bad sensor.

 

I haven't heard any knocks. How hard is it to get to the sensors/harness? If I find a rat I'm just going to sell the truck...as is

 

The sensors pick up knock you'll never even hear. Takes about an hour to get down to the intake manifold if you've done it a dozen time. If not, plan on spending a day at it.

 

The code on mine is PO333 and specifically says "Knock Sensor 2 Circuit High Input"

http://www.autocodes.com/p0333_toyota.html

 

PO333 does seem to relate to severed wires, moreso than an actual failed sensor. Good luck!

 

Just did a quick look around the engine for any signs of mice/etc and didn't see anything. I did read that it could be a groundhog which I just do happen to have around my house that has been terrorizing my vegetable garden the past month. Looks like he has moved on to bigger and better things

This may be too advanced of a job for me to tackle on my own

 

I replaced mine with chevy part number SU1075 and they have worked great under boost, therefore I'd assume they work on an N/A motor... There also only $22 a
piece

I also have 2 working knock sensor off of my engine if anyone is interested.