How much are you paying for your 2017 Tacoma?

Super White TRD Sport DCSB 4x4
-Premium and tech with JBL
-Tow

MSRP: $39,360.
SELLING Price: $36,530.
DMV, DOC AND TIRE FEES: $528.25
TAX: $3,653 ( yes, I live in 1 of 5 cities in California with 10% sales Tax)
OTD: $40,711.25

 

Silver Sky TRD OR DCSB 4x4
-Premium and Tech package
-Tow Package
-Delivery Fee for foreign port ($900)

MSRP: $39,632
Selling Price: $35,445
Dealers Fees: $450
Federal Tax: $6,734.55 (19% federal tax)
Region Tax: $4,253.40 (12% regional tax, their version of state tax)
Military Tax exemption: - $10,987.95

OTD: $35,895

 

I went to three different dealers here in so cal and they all told me they wouldnt move more then a few hundred bucks on the 2017s. So I pretty much paid MSRP. Got a few tanks of gas.. truck had carpet mats, told em I wouldnt take it without all weathers, so they gave me both no charge. Kinda shitty though reading some of the deals you guys got in other states. Did anyone score in so cali? Believe me the first dealer I went to I was there for hours and they only moved 300.. I even left.. they called the next day and said that was honestly the best they could do. I ended up at dealer number three.. after three attempts I got a 2017 4x4 MGM double cab trd off road.. tech pak, tow, jbl, toneau cover, running boards, carpet and all weather, clets, d rings, exhaust tip.. 40.6k

 

Is that long bed or short? Also is that out the door price? If so that doesn't seem too bad

 

2017 Inferno Doublecab Shortbed TRD Off-road
-V6 / Automatic
-Towing package
-Mudflaps
-Exhaust tip

Sticker: 37,760
Negotiated price: 34,000
Doc Fee: 200
Tax: 2,380
Out the door: 36,580

Andy Mohr Toyota, Avon, IN

 

Ya they will, tell them if not you'll take your money to another dealer. When making your deal the only number you want is: What's my Out the Door Price.

That's everything calculated, tax/title/registration/inspection sticker, EVERYTHING.

The only number you want to know is How Much Do I Write the Check For......

Then deal&wheel off that number. With everything calculated you Definitely want your that number to be UNDER THE STICKER PRICE. PERIOD.

Dealers jerk you around as much as possible, so you do the same back, and be sure during this process you walk out on them more than once. Throw it right back in their face, for example; ask what's the dealers invoice price, show me the invoice. Then mention the $1,500 Hold Back they get, so subtract that $1,500 from their invoice price (usually 3K less than the window sticker) and fight/argue starting with that figure.

Do you work hard for your money?

If you do then fight hard for the Best Deal Possible!

Sounds like you're doing pretty good, just get them to remove anything you don't want. I didn't want the locking wheel nuts, swapping my rims to the matte black TRD pro ones w/black lugs, nor did I want the tonneau cover. Told them take it off, and add it to another truck as a dealer added accessory. And they agreed!

 

Don't be afraid to make them work hard as well.

 

Does anyone know what dealers actually pay for for these trucks? I find it hard to believe that they pay invoice. If dealers margin of profit was based on the amount between invoice and msrp, they all would be out of business, so my guess is that invoice isn't actually an "invoice"
Just thinking out loud here..

 

Correct. Research "holdback"

 

Thanks

 

You are correct. Invoice is not dealer cost. That is a closely guarded secret.

 

It's not THAT closely guarded, plenty of websites give you info on holdback and active incentives.

Invoice less holdback less finance reserve less any active dealer cash = dealer cost

Tacomas NEVER have dealer cash, holdback is like $5xx and FR is around $300. But those are pretty much spoken for to cover flooring costs. So just depends how you measure "net cost"

But about $600-$800 below invoice and I matter how you slice it the dealer is literally losing $ on a Tacoma.

Other manufacturers are different, like Honda doesn't use rebates like toyota, they'll use dealer cash instead. So $1k below invoice on an Accord might not actually be a loser, but on a Camry it certainly will be. But the Camry also gives you a rebate up front that the accord does not, so if you bought them both for invoice the Camry would actually be cheaper by the amount of the rebate (if that makes sense)

 

Also remember the dealers can make money on the financing, either with interest rate markups or with "flats" which are a fee paid the dealer for writing the loan. Sort of like origination fees but tucked away out of sight.

The flat isn't always a bad thing. With my purchase, my dealer is associated with my credit union and we did the c.u. loan right in the finance office for the same rate I'd have gotten directly from my c.u.

 

gpb will you help us?

Reference post 554 and 569. You seem to have the best grasp of what a standard template should be. We are continually asking for this info or that info when someone asks for a deal critique. The template in #554 is a good start to work from.

Look at post 554 and lay out a comprehensive template that we can try to get everyone to conform to so we can truly understand their deal.

I believe I am like many others on here. I am trying to figure out how to get a good deal on a tacoma and to know what a good price is, so I can try to get it.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Anyone have any opinion on the numbers here: http://www.car-buying-strategies.com/dealer-invoice/toyota-tacoma-prices.html? If these numbers are correct cost and invoice are nearly one and the same for Tacomas.

 

Why wouldn't you simply use the numbers in our own TacomaWorld 3rd Gen Tacoma Model/Package/Option Costs Master List sticky thread at the top of the 3rd gen forum?

 

*blush* Thanks for the compliment / confidence.

In my case when comparing different quotes I literally built a spreadsheet to help me in the comparison. While that's probably overkill for what most are looking to do, here's a Readers Digest version of the key things I'd suggest people track of in their deal, and perhaps this will help with comparisons to others:

Start with knowing exactly what you want and calculate the full price with all fees and everything, so you know your real baseline:

Vehicle MSRP Including Delivery:
+ Options MSRP:
+ Dealer Fees (all):
= MSRP Subtotal of above:
+ Tag/Tax/Title:
= MSRP Out-the-Door Total:

Next calculate the Invoice price for the same. Use the Models/Options/Prices sticky thread for info, realizing that your numbers may differ slightly if you're in GST or SET territories, but reading the thread may get you these. You can also do a Costco pricing exercise and you'll get to see the invoice prices for SET or GST as part of how that works.

Vehicle Invoice including Delivery:
+ Options Invoice:
+ Dealer Fees (all):
= Invoice Subtotal of above:
+ Tag/Tax/Title:
= Invoice Out-the-Door Total:


Now, work your magic and negotiate a deal using Out-the-Door pricing. Take that number and subtract the Tag/Tax/Title (easily calculated). Call that "Deal Subtotal".

How good a deal do you have? Compare your Deal Subtotal to the Invoice Subtotal and to the MSRP Subtotal figures you calculated.

For my truck, the MSRP Subtotal was $42,977 (including $600 dealer fee) and Invoice Subtotal was $39,335 (including $600 dealer fee). Negotiated OTD price was $42,500 including 7% tax ($2,779) and $21 in state fees, so my Deal Subtotal was $39,700.

Analysis: I effectively I paid invoice plus $365, inclusive of dealer fees. The only additional costs were those mandated by the state of Georgia. I could also state that I paid $3,277 below MSRP before TTL and including dealer fees. Since tax amplifies savings, if you look at full out the door pricing, I saved $3,506 as compared to someone just walking in and paying sticker price.

Note that this is Southeast Toyota territory so careful on comparisons, things may be slightly different elsewhere.

Hope this helps.

 

I did this for $25

 

ill charge you $75 to install it.

Its a straightforward process - I did a write up on this last year

 

There is a lot of detail in there but I don't see anything regarding holdback/actual dealer cost...