"Wheeler's Anonymous"

Mother of God

 

Siiiiick! What size and cuantos per? How was your experience with SoCal Supertrucks. I've been in there a couple times -- One good experience, one bad experience customer service wise.

Edit: Also, internal or external ballasts?

 

I'll tag you in the thread so you can follow it! We normally do Thursdays out in Anaheim. Last one was something like 12 trucks I think?

 

siiiiiiick!!

 

Don't mind me, just catching up.

You need to get some of the coolest switches on TW! Aircraft toggles!!

ALWAYS use a proper fuse box with relays. Clean. Controlled. And "add a fuse" circuits are BS.

Youch. No fuse between battery and components??? Dude. We may need a second mod day to fix this

Ok heres the reason I posted. For us amateur HAM guys, here's some interesting reading... http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs/murs.htm looks like as long as we pick these frequencies on our HAMs 151.820 MHz * 151.880 MHz * 151.940 MHz * 154.570 MHz * 154.600 MHz we're FULLY COOL TO USE OUR RADIOS. I think this follows exactly what @Sandtaco had given us several months back as well?

Now to buy an antenna and get this setup rolling!

 

3 posts in a row, suck it!

Is that a lightbar cover that looks like round KC's?

 

This is the Pro6 LED light bar. It comes as one piece. LED so no ballasts.

http://www.kchilites.com/light-type/led/gravity-led/gravity-led-pro6-led-light-bar.html

My experience with them was really good. KC product development manager was there as well overseeing the project, which was their first Tacoma install for these lights.

 

Siiiiick.

 

@digitaLbraVo

Of course there are fuses. Just need it more organized, not a bunch of wires hanging off terminal with individual fuses.

Also, not circular covers for rectangular bar. There are individual pod lights. Each has their own cover.

 

Check out the Pelfreybilt fuse box mount. I dunno for sure if it'll fit 3rd gens but maybe he has a reason to test one of those on your truck as well?

Checkout the Blue Sea add-a-fuse box.

 

Are these the boxes you used?

 

I have the Blue Sea 5026 I liked the negative bus and 12 circuits. However, I didn't realize the whole block has a 100amp concurrent draw limit which means 12 circuits is slightly overkill... But not necessarily at the same time. Depending on what you plan to do.

 

I gotta organize my electrical before I ad stuff too. What do you guys do with when you have lights in the bed?

 

What do you mean? I plan to run power leads off my fuse box to the load side of a relay, and from the lights back to the negative bus. Wire in a switch to the coil on the relay and it's off to the races.

 

Whoa think I just got confused there. I think I confused myself on the whole matter. I need to sit down with you guys one day in person.

 

How are you with electrical diagrams...?



Hot from battery to switch, hot from switch to coil side relay, ground from relay coil to battery.
Hot from battery to fuse, hot from fuse to load relay, hot from switched relay to light positive, ground from light to battery.

The only way this gets fuckered is with a fuse box as it basically takes the place of the battery AND the fuse in one spot.

 

I'd call that the opposite... If you had a 90amp fuse in front of the 100amp rated max fuse box you'd be "pretty safe" as you'd never be able to overload the box enough to burn it up, the fuse would burn out first. With a fuse that's 2.4x your box's rating you could heavily overload the fuse box.

I personally put a Blue Sea 100amp circuit breaker in front of my positive side on the 100amp block. Too much current and the breaker throws.

 

And now all this lighting talk will get added to my list of "thing I just don't understand" when it comes to my truck

 

You and me both...

 

What do you mean, is my 10 second paint drawing hard to understand?