"Wheeler's Anonymous"

lol I'm still over here trying to figure out what setup I have on my truck and then theres @Wile.E.Coyote trying to teach us all about radios, and now you all talking about how to wire up the lights..lol

 

Do you have auxiliary lighting? I don't remember if you do or not.

 

You see..already lost me lol I blame myself for being pretty clueless when it comes to all of this though haha

 

Aside from head or fog lights/any other factory lights, do you have any other lighting on the truck?

 

I can read electrical wires better than explaining it. I'm probably just over thinking it. So I'm a bit confused on where to place my distribution box (relays and fuses). Thinking inside the cab might be best.

Things I want to run:
Rear dust light also optional LED whip in parallel.
Front lights on bumper.
Power to Race Radio
Power to HID headlight harness
Power to interior dome light - might just go off the existing dome wiring for this but do an inline switch
Power to Off Road light bar.

I probably just answered my question on putting my stuff in the cab so it will be central.

 

@digitaLbraVo Oh, no..not yet at least. Going to do my best to at least have a light bar on my truck before anza.

 

In the cab is best for several reasons. I only did engine bay 'cause it's easy to in my setup. If I had a spot to put it and an easy way to get the fat >=4ga wire into the cab I would have.

 

You fuse to protect a short AND an overload. You aren't protecting against a short with such a large fuse. The rating of the wire is one thing, you'd burn up the fuse block itself and melt it if it were to overload.

 

Still didn't address the point of a short which is usually equipment failure or some other kind of inordinate situation.

EDIT

The purpose of a fuse is to intentionally be the weakest link in the circuit. Easier and cheaper to swap fuses than components/equipment.

 

Thanks. I got a million hole going through my cab. Some 4ga isn't going to be an issue. For me it sounds safer to have my relays in the cab to avoid water and dirt. I say that now. I'll probably change my mind when I actually go about it.

 

If you added the numbers to whats on the relay that would probably help them a lot based on 4 and 5 pin relays, I understood the kindergarten drawing though!



85 and 86, those are what activate the circuit when remote power (switch) is applied. the other side goes to a ground, so ground one side and power up the other side using a switch to activate the coil.

Once power and ground are applied to 85/86 then that energizes the coil sending your load power from load input (#30 from battery) to (#87 whatever you are trying to apply power to)

If you havent energized the coil by adding power from the switch there will be power at 87a at all times since that is the (resting position) when not energized). But when you flick that switch the lever moves from 87a to 87 sending power to your accessory.


This concludes our class on how to use relays. If anybody has further questions dont hesitate to ask!

 

You're the man! I personally only use single pole single throw unless I need something otherwise (like the single pole double throw in your picture). I also avoided giving detail that much 'cause relays are often different as those numbers aren't really standardized.

 

Sooo can you re-do all of my wiring? Cool, thanks

 

Are the numbers the same for any common relay. This is very good info.

 

All universal 5 pins are the same, the 4 pins are the same except the lack of 87a, its just seems that the 5 pin are much more common. I order them 10 at a time with a mini harness from Summit racing.
If they arent the same they provide a small schematic usually on the top, but after 35 years of working with relays I have found it to be pretty standardized overall. Probably since I always use the Universal type.

Yes I can, I can wire a complete engine from scratch, was lead installer at a Performance Dyno shop for many years, had to make full harnesses for race cars and trophy trucks, and then set up full engine management systems as well as all the tuning. I miss that job!! They moved to Pennsylvania..

Yes. If they use the numbers listed then they are.

 

I got my single pole single throw relays from O'Reilly's and I believe they matched his numbers for a 4 pin shown there. ANY relay worth any money has an electrical diagram showing which pins are coil, and load/ground.

 

When I did my 4wd controller bypass for locker anytime I had to use a double pole double throw and the pins were wacky compared to everything I saw. I had to physically examine the device (it was clear boxed) to see what moved when power was applied and then adapt that to the guide I was using as his numbers didn't match. Lesson? No diagram. No money spent on it!

I only trust labelling I did myself. I find the guy who came before me usually was crosseyed.

 

A relay is 2 parts:

1. A coil that magnetizes when power is applied (this is what your switch connects to)
2. And a circuit that is either "normally open" or "normally closed," when the magnet is applied the opposite is performed. So a normally open circuit will close due to magnetism, conversely, a normally closed circuit will open.

They get more complicated when you talk double pole double throw, single pole double throw, single pole triple throw, etc. etc. etc.

 

1 more day!

 

I felt so good after repainting my sliders as they looked like ridiculous shit. It was sad.

Now I need to touch up the bumper in a few places. #paintedarmorproblems