Warning popped out of nowhere....

This showed up in the display can't seem to turn it off will take it to the dealer to keep you guys posted!

 

Thanks for the response however how is it going to turn ignition while battery disconnected? 0_0

 

IF you try the battery trick, keep us posted.

G.

 

Hmm, well since I own and drive a muscle car as well as a truck, whenever I'm in the muscle car the stability/traction warning always comes on. Of course it's coming on because I'm sliding it around on purpose.

So with that thought in mind, just wondering what will happen if you go out and kick the ass end out on purpose....... Interesting to see because you'll be activating that warning to come up. Hmmm

Just something I would try, curious that way, and it's always fun to spin the wheels!

 

How could this be true?

 

I've seen it done. Not on a Toyota. Tread carefully. Computers (ECU's, BCM's PCM's...ect) are pretty fragile. When your putting back on a positive battery cable you don't have a consistent 12v power supply, until that terminal is on and tight. The car is on load and wanting that power. Basically a power surge. Sure you might get it on the terminal right way and everything be somewhat normal but you also may not. It's like cutting the supply to your house and then sending 80 volts one second, 110 another, 60 another, ect... Sure your corner lamp will be ok, but what about your tv, refrigerator, computer and other sensitive equipment? Same concept just different systems.

If you properly wanted to get rid of "static" then you could simply disconnect the positive terminal. Wait a second and touch it to a ground cable or point. Then connect it back to the positive terminal. All while the vehicle is off.

 

I'm sorry but WHAT? Please explain... I am a Aircraft Electrical Tech. How in what way will disconnecting a battery, pressing a button and reconnecting a battery fry the system? Educate me.

 

Go out to your truck. Leave the ignition on and disconnect power and then reconnect it with the ignition still on. I'm not saying 100% it will fry the ECU in your truck but you very well can have issues. I've seen it short out a FCIM on a jeep, and screw with some Immobilizer modules. Just saying it's safer to just leave the battery disconnected for a while vs trying something like this. If someone wants to test it out on their own vehicle more power to them

 

Full of shit.

 

Eh. Doubt anything would happen. Plus OP has a push button. Nothing in the circuit is going on when not powered. The static electricity is probably next to nothing in the system. Anyways author said to turn it off before reconnect of battery.

 

Take it to the dealer,it's under warranty right? I'm a firm believer in the "paper trail". Just in case it becomes a recurring problem the dealer will have a record of it.

 

Agreed. Especially if it becomes an issue they can't fix. Start the 30 day clock.

 

You can remove both terminals of the battery and hold the leads together, making sure not to touch the battery and it will do the same thing. It will remove the capacitance load that is still in the vehicle. Or leave the terminal off for awhile and it will discharge on its own.

 

You can't with a push button.

Why don't you go troll the 2nd gen forums

 

Very simple fix to the problem. It's a 2016, take it to the freakin dealer and let them figure it out.

 

Nothing should happen however it does. I'd like to think aviation electronics are a lot more stable then auto electronics. I've seen relays or control units being mounted too close to ABS modules throw lights, Yaw sensors read wrong because of interference. All sorts of weird and crazy things. I'm sure you have as well, but i have a feeling they are a lot less susceptible to problems

 

My thought also. I want that shit documented in case it screws up down the road it'll be covered.

 

Donuts....Donuts....Donuts....

Time to make the DONUTS.....

Then tell us what msg pops up! LOL

 

Its a momentary contact push button.