What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

cbc is saying 225mm. on the ground raingauges say even more. either way its the largest amount recorded in the past 100 years

 

We bought this truck in Sept '16 for my son to drive. 2002 Tacoma SR5, TRD, 4wd, v6, 142,000mi, it'd been sitting in a barn for 4 years+. We're updating several things- so far new water pump, crank shaft seal, timing belt, tensioner & pulley, belts- fan, a/c, pwr steering, alternator, rebuilt the starter & alternator, I broke the camshaft sensor- so a new one, 02 upstream sensor, cat converter, harmonic balancer, cleaned mass air flow & throttle body, 3 coil packs + wires + plugs, fan clutch, radiator + hoses + thermostat, added a Haynes trans cooler, repaired the clock, changed fluids & oils- tranny, engine, front & rear diffs, and transfer case, installed a magnaflo muffler + chrome tip, air filter, dielectric in most connector/connections. I'm taking it to the dealer for 3 recalls- inspection + ball joints + gas fill part, they've ordered the parts. Shop vac'd dirt dobbers, leaves, nest & so-on from the engine compartment.

I'm planning to replace the wheel bearings- but so far this may take tools I don't have, I'd appreciate any advice on replacing front & rear bearings/seals and such. I'll work on the trucks exterior after I finish the mechanical parts. It has a dent in the- driver rear panel, tail gate, passenger rear door, paint is fading or clear coat looks like its peeling or something. This truck is running smooth, I can set a full cup of coffee on the engine and it barely vibrates.

I'll post a few pictures. I have many more pics. I'm looking forward to taking my boys fishing & hunting in it.

I need advice on the- bearings, flushing brakes & power steering, and where all the grease zerks/fittings are located.

Thanks to all the how to post on TW...I couldn't have done this without your help.

-Malcolm

 

when i put mine on i just set them next to each other to compare them. i took the one that had more arch and put it on the driver side. side by side youll see that one spring has much more arch than the other. like stated earlier this is to adress taco lean. more arch=driver side, the wimpier one=pass side.

 

Curious as to how you like those. I have looked at them too, seem like a nice tire for the price. What size did you go with?

 

83 over yonder! Nothing but sun and blue skies.

 

so far they seem to be great, quieter than I expected for how aggressive they are. I am running 285/75/16

 

I used 80-90 from front to rear(front diff, man trans, tcase, rear diff). went with royal purple. love their product. only thing really worth mentioning is on my last drive out to the west coast i noticed my shifter for the transfer case was wicked hot. I was in northern utah and it was a hot ass day but it was pretty alarming. i've read on here some others have experienced this with other fluids aswell so im not sure the cause.

 

I did about a 2 hour drive in the middle of Arizona summer and my tcase shifter was super hot also. I could only hold onto it for about a second. That was with stock fluid I think. I ordered the mt90 fluid so I'll see how it goes.

 

I have the A340F (30-40LE) automatic tranny, it needs Type IV. There are several good brands out there. My front & rear diff oil was dark dark gray, most likely the original fluid. I put 75W90 in my diffs & transfer case. Everyone has their brand they grow to trust- Mobil 1(Auto zone), Red line (online), Lucas, Valvoline and such. The fill & drain on the rear diff & transfer case is 24mm (remove fill plug 1st). The front diff is Torx T55(cheap set at Auto zone), and isn't easy to fill- to make it easier and less waste use a pump style filler. They're cheap and it'll make it a lot cleaner (I lost 1/2 qt when filling the front, due to the tube popping off- soaked me good).

When I'm using my trucks for hard farm work 8 hours/day I go old school and use 75W140, you'll need to be the judge of whether you need this heavy oil- hauling, towing, 100F+ heat and such. You get great gear protection, but MPG will drop a little. Always check your FSM or a trusted dealer for solid advise.

-Malcolm

 

Other than a press what's the best way to get the aftermarket UCA slug into the spindle?

 

Bout time you decide to put those on...

 

I used a press but they slid in with very little effort.

You could try freezing the slug adapter and heating the spindle, and I bet they would tap in without much fuss with a deadblow.

 

How did you press the old ball joint out?

 

Yeah I know it's been a while

I was gonna freeze it for sure, won't have access to a torch but hoping freezing it and greasing the shit out of it and using one of the tools below or an Autozone tool would get the trick

I plan on using this set or a tool from Autozone

 

Cool, let us know how that works out for you. I'll be installing mine in a few weeks I hope. I've hesitant because of everything I've read about those sobs. I would hate to have to take the whole spindle out and stuff.

 

I'm doing LBJs at the same time, so worst case I take out the CV and unbolt the brake caliper and it'll be free IIRC

 

Makes sense, I'll be doing my lbjs as well. Hmm...

 

Checked the temps this afternoon after a good trip. Rear diff: 122F, Front diff: 85F, Transmission: 135F, Transfer case: 122F

 

no idea bought the truck of my buddy of 7 years... i know he wanted to do hid or projectors on them... im just going to do projectors once i get $$$ and time going to have that guy on here do them

probably lol .. no accidents on it though.. and well it hasnt been washed and its a little dirty