Polyurethane Radiator Support Mounts (Cab Also)

Completed the install of cab mounts and put in the kit radiator bushings.

What a pain in the ass.

I had complications with cab alignment after doing the second side, this was mainly due to my work site being on a slight incline. It didn't seem to matter for the first side, but it definitely mattered after the second side. I fixed it by rolling the truck backwards slowly and stopping suddenly, cab slid backwards a few CM and all was well.

Based on my observations of the O.E. cab mounts, this was an unnecessary mod at this time for my truck after 7 years of operation. Cab mounts were in very good condition.

I took pics of install and bushings and posted them in my build here.

If you read this and decide to do the cab mounts, I would not do it without a 14mm flex head ratchet wrench. It saved a ton of time.

 

The amount of wear your cab mounts will see will vary from truck to truck depending how mildly or hard you have wheeled it. My own had tearing in the back drivers side cab mount. Of course I know that that side of the cab is tied in close to the location of the gas tank and with the hard wheeling I've done, I was expecting to see something along those lines when I replaced mine.

 

Mine weren't awful after 10 years either but they were definitely starting to dry rot and crack. Regardless, the truck feels a lot more steady like Roberto said so I'm happy with them.

 

I agree that each truck is going to be different based on age and how the owner operates it.

Both of my rear bushings have mild 180* cracks on the underside. I probed the wear, and they just cracks and not torn.

The front cab mounts were in perfect shape on the underside. However the necks of those bore a 360* crack all the way around. Still IMO very good shape.

Can't remember if it was posted in this thread or not but the correct torque for the bushing is 34 ft.lbf.

I ran the nuts on with an impact cause I was pissed and wanted the job to end. I may have to fine tune the torque later. I did grease the internal metal sleeve of the bushing, but left the washers mostly dry. Bushings are silent.

Looking forward to getting in the dirt soon.

 

I greased the piss out of everything not knowing Energy makes their own "special" grease that I have a strong sneaking suspicion is simply a lithium or silicone base. Not sure if anything will eat the polyurethane but whatever.

I DID get squeaks after driving in super fine dust for a weekend but they've mostly all disappeared other than my dakars, but what else is new.

 

X3 on lubing the sleeves and bolts!!! I actually just had a squeak coming from the drivers side rear cab bolt and it just so happened that the bolt was so corroded from the old mounts and the fact that I reused the old bolt that the bolt actually seized onto the sleeve already and was making noise already. I had to free the bolt from the sleeve and then apply gobs of antiseize in the sleeve and on the bolt. Squeaky clunky all gone now. Just in time for camping.

The bushings themselves won't get eaten by anything or any grease. They are impervious to any petroleum based product so you are good there.

 

So just to bump this, I finally got around to addressing my cab bushing squeak. It was just the drivers side rear bushing I loosened it, applied some loctite and then tightened it with the impact a couple trigger squeezes past hand tight and the squeak is gone. If Im bored later Ill toss a torque wrench on it, but id guess I put it around 50ish. Squeak is gone!

 

Same deal here about the smaller center hole diameter washers. No big deal I suppose I just have to drill or Dremmel a bit, bit still. I called ES and they are going to send me "better" washers...

Oh, '14 here with only 16K miles and the radiator support bushings are already shot. Kudos to the OP for addressing this issue.

 

Did you ever fix your floor?

 

Nevermind, It came back this morning when it was cold. If it does it again on the way to work I'll reset torque to spec with more loctite. Ugh.

 

Well, finished the radiator support bushings. I'm just amazed that they look brand new, as they should, on a '14 with low miles and almost talked myself out of doing them. If you are on the fence about doing these 'cuz they look good on the outside, you may be in for a surprise. After discovering this I felt the same way as the day I discovered the front differential side bearing was bad...

Crom, I have the remainder of the kit and am pondering if I should just go ahead and do the rest of the body mounts tomorrow. I know you said you thought it was a pain, but looking back do you have any thoughts about what could have been done to make it less of a pain?

 

It's way less of a pain if you are prepared and follow the write up. Going in blind sucked.

 

@58 Siesta 's write-up (a different thread) is very helpful as a guide. I had complications because my work area was not completely flat, and had some minor but annoying alignment issues with cab after second side.

So make sure it's flat space!

A 14mm flex head ratchet wrench is extremely helpful for this job as well.

A helper could be useful as well. I did the whole job solo. It's doable, but may take more time.

 

Yes I did. I just ran industrial grade polyurethane in the areas that tore the OE weather sealant then drove self tapping screws into the points where the floor tore at the spot welds. After I got it all even and back to how it was. The industrial urethane was not fune to work with and kinda messy, but nothing a few paper towels didn't fix. That area is not going anywhere now.

 

I think you will need to pull the bolts out of the rear and liberally apply generous amounts of your favorite juwackem on it. Mine still slightly does it, but I am trying to tackle my steering wheel movement issue. One issue at a time for me. Luckily I figured out what the deal is there. I just have to get around to dropping the skid now so I can tighten bolts up..

 

While doing this job I see what you mean about the battery loading the core support area. Has anyone tried fabricating some type of support underneath the battery tray and tying it in with the actual frame beneath? I'm just thinking out loud here but I'm wondering if a small chassis shock found on some cars could be coupled with a small coil spring. Preloading the battery tray a little but allowing some movement and sending and dampening the force down to the frame.

 

Nope, you're wrong. Turns out the sound was my fiberglass rubbing the corner of the bodys pinch weld right near the cab mount. Pulled the glass back a bit, no more sound.

And my bolts looked fine when I pulled them out. Maybe a touch dirty, but no rust.

 

......on second thought it may not need to be this complicated. Perhaps even just a bracket with generic rubber bushings on both sides might work, IDK.

 

Yeah you're over complicating it way more than need be. Easiest fix is just do a solid support straight to frame, take the weight off of the core support and you're good.

 

I wouldn't do any sort of dampening factor for the battery. That's a whole lot of weight and a whole lot of force that you're allowing to bounce around. Better to make the support as rigid and solid as possible so the battery itself doesn't become mobile in any way