2016 Tacoma crankshaft sensor issue

Bahahah, I'm in pain but from spending 12 hours lifting my buddies jk. There's a bad batch of cps making their way into some trucks, Toyota is aware and though the part number hasn't changed there's a hash mark or different marking. When I get home I'll search for the thread that shows a bad and new one, guys are keeping these as spare parts in glovebox for wheeling which is smart.

 

Fyi, not all the unmarked CPS are bad, they just came from the same manufacturer during a bad run of parts so any not marked should be considered suspect. You dont know if you got a bad one until it fails prematurely. If they were all deemed bad Toyota would do a recall and replace all of them. I guess it's up to you if you want to gamble on the suspect part.

The trucks made after July 2016 are supposed to have the newer marked part. It is still possible though that every part manufactured isn't 100% reliable. It's also possible that other problems such as LED replacement can mimic a CPS failure.

 

In summary: We don't have any documented cases of a new (hash-marked) CPS failing.

I haven't replaced mine but I pulled the old one to check for the hash mark [nope!] and reinstalled it. I think a spry person with long arms could do the replacement in 10 minutes with the engine cool. It took me longer (20-30 minutes) but I'm not spry. I did not remove the tire. The connector release tab is hard to find under the rubber boot but I read in a previous thread that it was toward the back and that was the case. 10mm bolt. My arms (I guess they are "normal" length) were barely long enough to reach. If you had a lift or jacked up the frame so the tire was "lower" and out of the way, it would be really easy. I used 2x 6" extensions so I could get a clean shot at the bolt, but other options are viable.

As for "OMG WHY? OH WHY??" all I can say is that it's cheap insurance if I am way out in the boonies. Even on the trail I think this could get repaired faster than you could get recovered. Also, I will probably just replace it and keep the old one as a spare. I bought the first year of a new design, I expected some issues. This is probably the worst so far and the risk is pretty low. I don't think most people need to worry about it. I carry two fire extinguishers and a set of tools; I shouldn't have to do that either, but I've used both in the past. I like to be prepared and I'd feel pretty damn stupid sitting on a lonely trail with my kids 20 miles from pavement with a failure that I knew about but hadn't taken any action. BUT, just because my personality and use profile justify CPS replacement, it doesn't mean that necessarily applies to anyone else.

 

This is an important point. It's probably a very small percentage.

 

We'll said. I live in the middle of nowhere. And play in areas much more remote with no cell service. This is why I bought a back up. If I lived on either coast full of people, tow trucks and cell service or rarely left the pavement I would not waste my money on a back up.

 

Agreed. For the price of another cps it's worth keeping with you when out in the back country. Added security. Worth having

 

Here's the location. You can see it's right next to the exhaust, so not someplace you want to be working when the engine in hot.




Here's the sensor. I find it interesting that there are clean water spots on the "inside" portion of the sensor, while the outside has dirty water spots (as expected for my operating history).



And here's a shot showing I do NOT have the hashed circle that indicates the newer sensor production.

 

Mine was built in 7/16 and I have issues currently trying to get the problem fixed after 3 visits to the dealer

 

We are specifically talking about the Crank Position Sensor here. If you have CPS issues and it's taking 3 trips, your dealer is particularly bad and your truck probably doesn't run.

 

My truck leaked oil right at the sensor and I had it changed,then they did some other stuff with lock tite and the surrounding bolts,but I did experience the rough idle and hesitation that's mentioned.After they changed sensor for oil leak those other issues went away.

 

So yes I must of had a bad sensor on a tacoma built in July of 2016

 

When was your build date? A newer build should be ok or so I've heard

I don't think it matters as they come from the same supplier and the installation is easy. Only thing could be a loose connector, but the dealer would just push it all the way in and problem solved without replacement as that cost them some in rental and shop bay use.

I think you made a wise choice to replace now, too many failures and not worth the risk.
But I do NOT think the owners should pay, Toyota should recall this CSP sensor now!

The clean water marks may just be condensation from the extreme heat and overnight cooling cycles, I wouldn't worry.

three visits doesn't make sense for a CSP sensor, but a camshaft sensor yes, as there a four total, two on each head.

CSP sensors don't leak oil or water, but a camshaft sensor oil leak is a definite yes, you have camshaft position sensor issues not crankshaft position sensor.

Good luck
Cheers!

 

yeah I guess it's camshaft then but it shouldn't be happening to a brand new truck

 

Oh believe you me, I agree 100%!
Especially on this truck, as the Atkinson cycle is dependent on it working precisely.
I hope this is not like the CSP sensor epidemic, but only an isolated incident.

Cheers!

 

Thought I'd bring this thread up bc my truck just died last week.

2016 DC SR5 2WD V6 with 23500 miles. Went limp on the highway, saying "ATF fluid high temp" on computer dash, truck wouldn't start after that.

Towed to dealer Thursday and they finally said it needed crank sensor today. Never had any problems before that.

 

Clarification requested...
Crankshaft Position Sensor or Camshaft Position Sensor???
This is what the stealership provided me with...

 

CRANKShaft position sensor. Almost inline with the crankshaft, housed within engine block.

Camshafts are in the cyl heads.

 

So they are saying they remove per above photo but thread posters state it's passenger side/easily accessible near wheel well.

I know the dealerships/owners do things differently but wondering if it's the same thing we are all talking about.
Thx in advance.

 

Correct, but not easy if engine is hot. It sits directly next to/ below the catalyst.
Need to lift the rubber fender well splash guard by removing/ popping the clip and inserting 3/8" drive tools with a 10mm socket. An extension is required and wobble extension is recommended.

Here's a decent post with pics from this member. Same way as any mechanic who's working on commission would do. It can be accessed from the under the vehicle also as I've tried.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-failure-in-2016s.442304/page-9#post-13606197

 

Thx so much! Appreciate the detail.