Manual Door Locks, Windows & Mirrors to Power Retrofit-Conversion [BUILD THREAD/WRITE-UP]

POWER DOOR CONVERSION/RETROFIT BUILD THREAD & WRITE-UP​

This thread will serve as my write-up/build of converting both doors in my 1998 Extended Cab from Crank Windows, Manual Locks, and Manual Ball-Joint Mirrors to fully powered motorized Windows, Actuated Locks, and Remote Power Mirrors. This will bring you through everything I had to go through to complete this project, as well as some basic instructions on how to complete this project.

My '98 PreRunner Extended Cab, which will be the candidate for this retrofit.



And here's the victim (which I will be taking all the parts and wiring from) an '04 Limited that rolled over on a patch of black ice.







DISCLAIMER: I am by no means an expert. The schematics and information provided may not be completely accurate, but it will lay out the basic wiring and component placement. This is all trial and error. I am not responsible for any electrical failure or damage that ensues from incorrect assembly.

​

BACKGROUND:

I will be using all the components from a wrecked 2004 Limited Double Cab. Everything is going in my 1998 PreRunner Extended Cab so two of the switches on the master controller will be unused. I eventually plan to use the linkage and motors for the vent windows from a mini-van to control the rear Extended Cab vent windows using these existing Double Cab switches.

This system will bypass the factory installed Integration Module/Body-ECU and RS3000 Alarm System (or any existing computer module). The locks will be controlled via an aftermarket negative trigger keyless entry system, as well as two 30/40 Amp relays.

I want to keep this truck as factory as possible, so I am avoiding using aftermarket power window kits and lock actuators. Every power component being used is 100% OEM (besides the crossover harness I will be fabricating, the relays, and keyless entry module). You can do this retrofit with aftermarket kits if you want (this way is a lot easier) but the truck will not operate in the same way as the original OEM way would.


INTRODUCTION:

If you want to take the project on at this point, first STOP and check behind your kick panels. Your truck MAY have the necessary (4) connectors for the power doors already installed even if the power options are absent on your truck. Some trim levels are trucks may include it. This is very rare though. If you do have these connectors, your conversion will essentially be plug and play besides some fudging with the truck's integration module.

In my case, my truck lacked these connectors. It had the slot present for the upper connector, but it only had the lower connector for present the speakers behind each kick panel. This thread will bring you through the process I had to go through fabricating the wiring harness yourself and bypassing the factory Body-ECU/Integration module.

Okay! Now let's get started:


SHOPPING LIST:

TOOLS:

• Factory Service Manual with Wiring Diagrams & Schematics for your Donor Vehicle
• Basic Hand Tools (Sockets, Hex Keys, Drill, etc. for removing/installing components)
• Butane Torch (I use a Crème Brûlée torch for shrinking tubing)
• Wire Crimping Tool (Ratcheting Works Best)
• Automatic Wire Strippers
• Solder Fume Extractor
• Soldering Gun

SUPPLIES:

• Electrical Solder
• Heat Shrink Tubing
• Various Terminal Blocks
• Project/Electrical Enclosure
• (4x) 30/40 Amp SPDT 12v Relays
• Crimp Connectors (Forks, Spades, and Ring Terminals)
• Keyless Entry/Alarm System Module (Negative Trigger Signal)

DOOR COMPONENTS:

• FL, FR Power Door Skins & Switch Trim (in desired interior color)
• FL, FR Window Regulators & Motors
• FL, FR Door Lock Actuators
• FL, FR Power Mirrors ('01-'04 Style is Better)
• FL Power Window Master Switch
• FR Window Switch
• FR Lock Rocker Switch
• FL, FR Complete Door Wiring Harnesses
• FL, FR Kick Panel Pigtails (see below)

KICK PANEL WIRING:

Now the following connector pigtails ARE NOT necessary for your retrofit, but it will make your life a HELL of a lot easier. I HIGHLY recommend you find a donor Tacoma or 4Runner with these connectors and CUT THEM! It gives you wires and a base to solder to. I went behind the kick panels on the donor truck and cut as far back (3-4 Inches) of the male door connector sockets so I could creating (4) wiring pigtails. Having these will allow you to unplug the doors (OEM style), and prevents you from cutting the complete OEM door wiring harnesses.

• Driver's Side Kick Panel Connector (Upper, IH3)
• Driver's Side Kick Panel Connector (Lower, IH2)
• Passenger's Side Kick Panel Connector (Upper, IL2)
• Passenger's Side Kick Panel Connector (Lower, IL1)

Keep in mind these connectors are from a 2004 DOUBLE CAB and will vary model to model, year to year.

The reason why these kick panel connectors are so good to have is because your retrofit will be easier to complete, and make future work on the truck a lot easier. The plugs/connectors will allow you to unplug the doors (just like it would on a factory equipped truck) and remove the doors if necessary. The wiring diagrams will also make a lot more sense since the wiring color changes at the connectors.

DOOR PANELS:

Now you COULD use the '95-'00 style door panels (since the switches are integrated into the elongated armrests) and keep your existing door panels (if you have a '95-'00 style) but I personally like the look of the '01-'04 style door panels rather than the older style.

Using the '95-'00 style will be easier since you could use your existing door panels (besides the replacement of the armrests) but I found that '95-'00 Tacomas equipped with power doors are very rare. The advantages of the '01-'04 style door are aesthetics, ergonomics, and the fact that it has a tweeter (while this is absent on the '95-'00 style) and can fit a larger elongated speaker. If you don't want to replace your round 6 inch speaker for the elongated one that the newer style doors use, you will need to cut some of the internal speaker grille from the door trim off.

I don't want to mess with the existing speaker wiring so I'm going to be using the existing door wiring for the door check/buzzer and speaker wiring and combining it with my new harness. There is already a speaker/tweeter connector on the donor harness so it will be unused.

Here you can see the '95-'00 style door:



And the newer '01-'04 style door:




SCHEMATICS & WIRING DIAGRAMS:


KEYLESS ENTRY SYSTEM SCHEMATIC:
Huge thank you to @mechanicjon for helping me figure the most complicated part of this retrofit out.



I'm using

Docooler Car Remote Central Lock Locking Keyless Entry System with Remote Controllers

this Docooler Keyless Entry system to control the OEM door lock actuators in conjunction with two 30/40A relays.

Here's the schematic for the Docooler Keyless Entry System (Negative Trigger):




POWER WINDOW SYSTEM SCHEMATIC:




OVERALL WIRING SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM
(Detailed PDF Available Below - "OverallDiagram.PDF")




KICK PANEL CONNECTORS
If you chose the easy method of cutting the kick panel door pigtails, here are the pinouts for each wire.

[NOTICE] THESE ARE 2004 LIMITED DOUBLE CAB CONNECTORS, YOUR CONNECTORS MAY VARY!

Kick Panel Connector Pigtail [IH3]



Kick Panel Connector Pigtail [IH2]



Kick Panel Connector Pigtail [IL1]



Kick Panel Connector Pigtail [IL2]




POWER WINDOW DIAGRAM:

Adapted by @mechanicjon

USE THE DIAGRAM FOR YOUR DONOR TRUCK

1995-2000 Wiring Diagram



2003-2004 Wiring Diagram




REMOTE MIRROR DIAGRAM:

Adapted by @mechanicjon

USE THE DIAGRAM FOR YOUR DONOR TRUCK

1995-2000 Wiring Diagram



2003-2004 Wiring Diagram

 

Most car audio places can do the alarm/remote locks. I got quoted for $75 a door to install remote locks. Don't know how to help with the windows though

 

new doors

 

Yes, this is realistic and possible to do. And yes, certain 98 models did come with power windows, and power door locks/actuators. Finding the parts is the hardest part IMO, and it may get costly.

 

Couldn't I just get the right and left regular and motor assemblies from RockAuto here? I heard the 1st gen Tacos usually have the wiring harnesses present for add-on options if the buyer doesn't choose them.

Does anyone have pictures of a 95-99 taco with power window options? I can't seem to find any pictures.

 

The motor assemblies & brackets are just part of the equation, but you still need plenty more. As far as wiring harnesses being present in non-power tacomas for power components, I've never heard of it, and my manual window/lock tacoma did not have the wiring harness in the door to accomodate electric components, but does have the plug-in for electric windows/locks harness behind the kick panel which makes the conversion possible.

 

I have an 03' with manual Windows. I bought the interior skins for the doors from an online salvage yard in Cali and found the harnesses to each door on EBay. I've gone as far as talking with a mechanic that knows electrical and he quoted me $300 to wire it up so that Windows will work. So basically you'll need the interior door skins, the harnesses that come out of the doors and you could rather have someone hardware it in or go as far as getting the harness out of the salvage vehicle that connects to both door harnesses and that harness I think connects to the ECU which you also might need being that it was designed from the factory for power windows. I might be wrong but without an ECU out of a 98' that had power. You wouldn't be able to open/lock your doors with the remote? I might be totally wrong on that though.

I haven't actually swapped mine yet because $300 needs to go towards my bills but I'm sure looking forward to it!

 

So you'd need to pick up a power door assembly ECU as well? I thought there was some additional control box under the driver's side dash. I'm not sure though. I heard it all just plugs in behind the kick panel.

 

It might be. I sure hope so! If it is then I've been waiting for nothing this whole time. I just found some Limited seats that came with Lower Lumbar and I've been told that the connection is under the rug, that TOO would be awesome!

if this is true, I have everything for install. Heading out to my truck to see if it plugs in. Stand by 1

 

Sorry, the connection is under the rug? Whaaaaaaaat?

 

For my lower lumbar seats that I just bought out of a Limited Tacoma. Nothing to do with the power Windows

 

Ok, I just tore my interior panels off and removed the manual window regulator because I had purchased the power ones for a 2003 and the holes for the regulator I purchased off of 1Aauto do not line up. I called thinking they sent me the wrong regulator and the guy said that the door configuration is different on the manuals vs Tacomas w/ power options.


Note the bolt pattern. Its hard to believe that Toyota would make different doors for manual vs. power but so far that's what it appears to be

 

Oh no! You might have to fab a new bracket.

Check this website: http://www.a1electric.com/tacoma.htm

Keep us updated! This is interesting.

 

Joe,
Looks like you have the right part. Our manual trucks with manual/roll-up window brackets are smaller, and mount in different spots than the larger power window brackets. Here is a pic to show you where the power window brackets mount to. The holes should be there in your door. They are in my 97 tacoma. I'll try to find the link where I found this pic, it's here on TW somewhere. Pictured is a 2000 tacoma.

 

Mounting holes for the manual bracket in blue.

Drivers side OEM POWER window lift bracket with motor.

 

Hell yeah! Thats awesome!... Back at it again tomorrow!

 

I did this on a pre-Taco... a 95 truck with manual windows/locks. I elected not to do power locks as I didn't mind reaching over to unlock nor going to the passenger side first to unlock the passenger door for my passenger--typically my wife--prior to getting in my own side. I also elected to do power mirrors as well. Anyway, the following are bullet points from my experience which should be relevant to a Taco as well:
- looks like you've confirmed the power regulator/bracket will bolt in to pre-drilled locations. I found this to be true on mine as well.
- finding the power equipped door panels for my 95 x-cab truck was the hardest thing... I finally found them but the arm rest and switches were trash. I ultimately used an arm rest and switches from a 4Runner alongside the correct panels for the truck. If one were to looking closely, they would notice that I had window switches for rear windows which didn't exist on my truck. I didn't care.
- my door wasn't wired for anything, nor pre-drilled to run the electrical from under the dash. I had to take my doors off and cut a hole with a hole saw in the door jamb, as well as the jamb part of the cab itself IIRC. Not hard to do, but prime over the bare metal when you're done. Also, make sure your doors line up right when you put them back on. This may not be necessary on a Tacoma.
- I snagged power mirrors from a 4Runner. Bolted right up to my truck.
- All electrical wiring I snagged from a 4Runner at Pull-a-Part. This includes the harness from under the dash, including both male and female connectors under the dash IIRC, back to the appropriate connectors for the windows, mirrors, and courtesy light in the door.
- I couldn't locate a plug-and-play harness at my fuse box or anywhere else under the dash. I didn't bother looking much because I had decided I wanted the windows to operate in the Accessory position on the ignition key switch. Therefore, I used power from the radio fuse to run to the windows and mirrors. IIRC, I did a quick calc to be sure that the windows and mirror wouldn't overload that circuit. I must have decided that it wouldn't because it never did.
- For the courtesy light, I ran that power from the door buzzer circuit that was present at the cab side of the door jamb. That way, it would come on when the truck sensed the door was open.

There may be other things from my experience that would be helpful. I can't remember then right now but I'll be happy to think through this more if I can add any value here.

Of all the mods I did to my truck, this was one that I appreciated most often and was my wife's favorite.

 

Solid input, thanks for taking the time to type this out.

 

Incredible write-up. So as far as I understand, the power windows and mirrors are powered by 12v from the fusebox? You didn't have to connect to any special wiring harness or anything, just splice pos/neg 12v? I wanted to do this project, but when I saw the master power controller for the Tacoma/4Runner it looked way too complicated to do. What wiring harnesses did you have to salvage?

 

Yes, as I recall, just 12V from the fuse box. I was thinking about 30 minutes ago that I should have said that I just spliced power into the radio circuit wire as it came out of the fuse box and a negative to a common negative somewhere at the fuse box. And still going from memory, I believe I took those spliced wires and soldered them to the back of the wire harness I would have taken off the 4Runner. For the harnesses, I got everything in the door as-is and went as far back as I needed to get a male and female and have a disconnect around the fuse box. I did not use a master power controller. The only controllers I used were the window and mirror switches themselves. I ran a couple wires under the dash to have the passenger window and mirror connect back to the driver's side. It may only be two wires that you need to run but I can't remember specifically.

As an aside, on the pre-Taco trucks and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners, most everything is switched on the negative/ground side of the component. That is to say, if a light was on a switch, the switch would be located between the component and the return wire, which was headed via a common line to the battery or a ground. The positive side is a straight source to power. That fact would have made some difference in where I located the switch for the door courtesy light, for instance. I don't think that matters so much for the windows and mirrors, but a good fact to remember if you're doing any interior lighting, which from other posts it appears you may run into.

I wish I had taken pictures and notes at the time. I did this in 2007 and wasn't as organized at that point in my life.