What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Here is a couple zhttp://www.oempartsquick.com/oe-toyota/4425035042?origin=pla&gclid=CO-0vI_b588CFQx_fgodQOcAkQ

http://m.ebay.com/itm/172361767204?fits=Make:Toyota|Model:Tacoma

 

that's where i got my at/3s from. I got the last set in 265/75/16 on ebay, but they just emailed me saying they are out of stock. But they took care of me and said a new shipment comes tomorrow and will ship friday. I think if anyone wants the deal, they will accomodate

 

Ya awesome if not best deal you can find out there if they have your tires in stock.

 

How much could someone sells sightly used (on the truck less than a year) set of Dorman leaf springs then? 150$?

 

Camelback Toyota is the cheapest by far they give an awesome TW discount. They have a thread on here, ask them for a quote before you buy a new oem.

In Phx we have a local axle and drive shaft place, they do an awesome job rebuilding racks and cvs. Might be worth a some research if you have one near you to see what they would charge to rebuild your rack and what they offer warranty wise. They do cvs in 30 mins or less, so might be able to do a rack in a day, higher down time than a swap but might only be a day and save a ton of cheddar.

 

Thanks for tip on Camelback. I'll send them a pm.
As for your local spot, if I were closer it would be worth checking.

 

I looked at camelback but I found they only offer a 3% tw discount unless I'm mistaken? Plus the cost of shipping.

 

I scared my girlfriend wheelin..now she won't talk to me lol

 

Just got my front lights on. Need to get the relay box and switches and I can wire them in. 360W upfront!!!

42 inch 240 watt spot/flood cree combo roof light bar. 4 inch 18 watt side pods.

22 inch 120 watt spot/flood cree combo bumper light bar.

360 watts total light comin at ya GTFOW!!!

4 inch 18 Watt side alley pod lights.

 

http://adautorebuilders.com <--- in Long Beach

 

I just got off phone w/Mario (ironically same name as mine) he said $125 w/a six month warranty. He said it would take him two hours. Hmm, wonder if it's worth the investment. Sure beats +$500.

 

@Squeaky Penguin do you have any insight as to what @quetzal should be asking them, in terms of what parts they are using to rebuild? Sounds like your rebuild is starting to fail because they used cheaper internal components during the rebuild than what otherwise comes with OEM.

 

Damn that's cheap

 

No. Can't help too much there. Do some searching for some of @Dirty Pool s write ups on steering racks.

Keep in the mind the time it takes to install a steering rack, as well as the cost of an alignment. If the rack sucks, you're going to have to do it again. I gave into the TW hype and bought an AAE/Safari new rack when I first replaced it. The POS was completely worthless. Sure as shit, a month or two later I spend all day swapping to a Rack Doctor, which has proven to only be slightly better than the completely defective one.

I don't know how much you value your time, but at this point, I would have saved money and a ton of effort just buying a new OEM rack from the get-go.

 

Did some trimming today to clear these.


and a new OEM rack is in my near future too. Not leaking, but has developed an alarming amount of play in it. Still drives straight though.

 

Bushings? Lot cheaper and easier to replace than a whole rack. I was told, by the alignment shop, that I needed a new rack. Changed bushing, took it back and it was perfect.

 

nope, the play is internal. I changed the bushings a year ago to the poly ones.
I can lift one wheel off the ground, and twist the wheel side to side, almost an inch, and see the inner tie rod move in and out. The itr itself is tight and has no play, it's inside the rack itself. The other side stays still, on the ground, when this play is seen.
Both sides do it, driver is worse.

 

Got an alignment and went to check what I needed to cut. Then took off the flares to paint and trim them but kinda like the look without them...

 

Thought I had my rubbing up front solved, but... Nah. I'm rubbing the plastic in the top of the fender wells when stuffed. Doesn't hurt anything but I hate the sound.

I'll trim the plastic. If that doesn't work, I guess I could shim my bumps up a tad. Or just wait for my tires to wear.

 

Interesting, I was very close to rubbing the top of the fender wells... I still think I have a little bit more to flex but shouldn't be to hard to fit everything. The hardest thing will be the washer reservoir relocation...