Anyone run 0w30?

I run 0w30 in mt v8 runner. Would like to do the same on the taco. Anyone using it?

 

I would stick with recommended weight that toyota states. If you want just switch to synthetic. I use synthetic and change at 5000 miles.

 

if you run synthetic oil in your v6 tacoma there is simply NO REASON NOT to run 0w30... 0w30 is priced the same as 5w30 yet 0w30 offers better startup protection.

0w30 is the same thickness at 5w30 at operating temps, yet is much thinner at cold temps vs 5w30. Even at 100*f 0w30 is still too thick to properly lubricate a motor, but it does ALOT better job than 5w30 due to it being much thinner.


Anything vehicle that runs 5w30 or 10w30 can use 0w30 without any adverse affects... only benefits.

 

this is why I switched to it in the runner. Thanks for the input.

 

For warranty purposes original weights should be followed. If youre out of warranty then it doesnt really matter. I called the toyota customer tech question line about this because I was curious about different oils. They told me to be covered by the power train warranty original weights and oil change intervals should be followed.

 

I hadn't thought about that...

 

This is why, even though I use full synthetic, I never strayed away from the 5000 mile change interval.

 

If you had a problem under your power train warranty.... you simply show them the bottle of 0w30.... Mobil 1 states right on the bottle.. can be used in ANY vehicle that requires 5w-30 or 10w-30.

 

Quote from a Mobil 1 bottle: "Warranty protection for 5W-30 & 10W-30 Requirements".

 

On their site they have this disclaimer for warranty.

Be advised that if your vehicle is covered by a warranty, you should follow the vehicle’s oil life sensor or the oil change interval recommended in your owner’s manual to avoid a disruption in your vehicle warranty. Follow your owner's manual if the vehicle is operated in any of the following severe services: racing or commercial applications including taxis, limousines, etc.; frequent towing or hauling; extremely dusty or dirty conditions; or under excessive idling conditions.

 

Like I said, if its out of warranty then its completely up to you. Personally I dont see the point in changing from what the engineers figured what was best for the motor.

 

Yes, for all the reasons @nd4spdbh listed.

 

Didn't realize so many people are running 0w30, Going to have to look into this for my next oil change.

 

I run 0W30. As said earlier, there is no reason not to run it.

With 5W30 synthetic at startup I would peg out my 100 psi gauge if the temp got into the single digits (lowest I saw running that weight). With 0W30 I started on the coldest day we have had around here in a long time, -22F! This time oil pressure was right at 90 psi on initial startup.

With the oil warmed up, pressure is the same between the two weights.

Temps typically run right at 180F around town and I've seen up to 215F or so on a hot day on the highway. Towing I got up to 220F once.

For what it's worth, oil temps don't quite follow coolant temps. On a cold day, just because the engine coolant temp has fully warmed up doesn't mean the engine oil is fully warmed up. It typically takes a good 10 minutes at normal driving speed for it to reach 180F.

 

I ran 10-30 last summer think i'm going back to 10-40 this summer.
If it's really cold maybe 0-30 would be ok.
The thinner oil doesn't seam to help mpg or performance in my truck.

 

the only reason to run 0W oil is for tight clearances in small modern engines. I wouldn't be surprised if the new motors are approaching the tolerances of a small Honda 2.0 but I think it would lead to more wear and tear on a truck over time.

I'd stick to the 5W stuff for a V6 as I don't really think there are any advantages to lower weight for our trucks.

 

You can run the 0w30 Mobil 1 with confidence. Its a excellent oil. I run it in my 2003 and 2014 when I feel the need to put it in there. Run the synthetic to 12 months or 10000 miles with normal driving conditions.

 

just check oil level more often till you know how much you burn over time

 

Here's what Mobil has to say about their 0W-30 oil.

 

I think there's some confusion, 0W30 isn't about better mileage, tighter clearances or performance.

When the oil is warmed up the viscosity is the same between 0W30, 5W30, 10W30 or just straight 30 weight oil. My observations show this, my pressures are the same between 0W30 and 5W30 when the oil is at temperature. I'd run 0W30 because there are improvements whether its in Alaska or Florida, although there would be a greater benefit when in Alaska.

For what it's worth, my brother runs 0W40 in his WRX. It has been dyno tuned and puts down right over 300 wheel horsepower and about 350 ftlb at the wheels. It is a lot of fun. He has plenty of gauges in it as well, his pressure observations show that his pressure at operating temperature is right in line with what other owners see that run 5W40 Rotella.


When cold, both 0W30 and 5W30 oils are still too thick to provide proper protection and lubrication. The 0W30 is definitely thinner than the 5W30 when cold though, meaning it is closer to the viscosity of the oil when hot and provides better lubrication until completely warmed up.

Because of this, the 0W30 will actually reduce the wear over time on the engine compared to 5W30 or 10W30.

One drawback to oils with a lot of viscosity improvers is that they are more susceptible to shearing. They wear out and can cause eventual thinning, that's why you hear the oil guys talking about an oil "shearing down". You can also have some greater losses (evaporation) with oils with more viscosity improvers. If 5W30 has a certain amount of VI improvers, 0W30 will have more. Both will have less than 10W30 though.

This used to be a bigger problem than it is now. You would really have to neglect an oil by not changing it for many changes to really shear down to get outside of its operating weights from what I'm aware of. The losses are usually within a percent or so greater, so you'd have to run quite a bit before you see any issue there as well. Before you get into issues like these, the oil is going to be contaminated enough due to combustion byproducts that you would want to change it anyway.

For what its worth, I've run 0W30 in my truck up to 7000 miles before a change, I just couldn't get time to change it. I never had to add any makeup oil and never have seen a real change in oil level so the loss difference between 0W30 and 5W30 wasn't an issue. I would have had to had an analysis run to see what it had sheared to. I am certain though that the oil still would be in the 30 weight range when at operating temp.