I done goofed. Cracked upper oil pan.

Is this because the motormounts are soft and the motor moved into the Offending hole puncher, or the other way around?

 

Also @HomerTaco used JB weld.

 

It was just the factory one, which is a two piece. Super thin sheet metal haha. Not really a skid.

 

There is a skid over the oil pan, what I'm guessing happened here is the skid bent up into one of the bolts on the differential mount (Pictured in photo) and that pushed the bolt up into the upper section of the oil pan (But i guess it's not called the upper oil pan, but it's also not the engine block?)

 

I have done the same thing on bike before. Don't think it would be a goof idea on a car though. I guess it doesn't hurt to try, and if it doesn't hold then get it repaired correctly.

 

You're correct....I got rock sliders first instead of upgraded skids. Majorly regretting that now.

 

Honestly not sure. I think the bolt on differential case punched up into it. But i guess it could have been the other way around.

 

The truck I saw this damage on was wearing a BAMF IFS skid. Could only have been engine movement. Been looking at these ever since.

 

I bought a car years ago that had been wrecked (didn't know that when I bought it) and had a crack in the transmission housing. I cleaned it really good and filled the crack with jb weld and it didn't leak again.

 

Pictures make everything look easy.

 

Okay well I'm at work now and had our parts guy bring up the motor pic with the oil pan in it. What cracked is the upper oil pan, good news it is doesn't have the main bearing support in it like the Camry motors like I originally told the op. The bad news is the transmission still bolts to this pan so that will have to be unbolted and possibly removed from the truck. Also because there is a cross member that is under the front part of this pan that isn't removable the motor will still most likely have to come out to replace it.

The toyota seal packing (FIPG) is $20 a tube, might need 2, there are 2 dowels in the pan $1 each needs 2, 2 studs for the lower black pan $1 each if they don't come out, and the upper oil pan itself is $267. So $300 for parts not including oil and whatever labor. Talked with another tech here and there is a possibility the trans could be unbolted and moved back and unbolt the motor mounts and lines/ harness and lift motor up enough to just clear the cross member, my not be possible though.

I'll try and attach the pic from our parts department.

 

Troof.
I broke the front diff mount which caused the diff to smack the oil pan & caused a 1/2" diameter hole. Bled out a couple quarts of oil on the trail. After pulling the skids & cleaning up the mess I was able to patch the pan with JB Weld Steel Stik. Held well enough to make the 100 mile ride home.
JB Weld is a temp fix though - patching it up would save you the $$$ to tow it to a shop bit that's about it.
I don't wish this problem on anyone - it's a royal PITA.
Best of luck OP!

 

Yeah, I know the factory plates are quite thin. I just didn't remember there being a plate under the oil pan.

Does that plate under the oil pan need removed when changing oil, or is there an access to the drain bolt without removing the plate? Not to get off topic, just curious because my memory has failed me. lol

 

That was a big hit. Sorry it happened. With years of welding experience once oil has got in crack it will be nearly impossible to weld. As it heats up from welding the oil will keep coming out of the aluminum contaminating the weld. To have piece of mind I would replace. Cheaper than a complete engine.

 

All of these posts above highlight precisely what is causing the cracking of the upper oil pan. I was the guy with the BAMF skid as previously mentioned, the engine mounts were unable to absorb the suspension bottom out, flexed due to their two piece design and caused just enough movement to kiss the front diff.

It was an unnerving experience for me at the time. After the initial shock, I simply drained the rest of the oil out, went to the store, bought some JB Steel Stik putty sprayed parts wash over the affected area and applied two large layers over it. One after the other had adequate dry time.

The kicker to this is due to its cast aluminum and being soft by nature, the fact it has already been compromised may mean the crack could EVENTUALLY get larger due to heating and cooling cycles. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it, however.

I've had this repair in place for close to two years I believe. I have since replaced the OE engine mounts to Poly ones built by Bonzen and Supermoto. They have been superb replacements. The repair has been holding just fine since I did it and I regularly inspect it during oil changes to make sure it is on the up and up. I put my truck through the ringer and regularly boost it. If this repair worked for me on a supercharged engine it will damn sure work for you. Best of luck.

 

Exactly what I was thinking of doing before something like this happens to me. You like em, More vibes, etc?

Bonsen/Supermoto
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...abricated-solid-motor-mounts-for-sale.406631/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-tacoma-v6-solid-motor-mounts.354921/

Or DTFtacoma
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...otor-trans-mounts-05-15-tacoma-1gr-fe.456704/

 

The vibes are meager during driving. Actually almost immeasurable. At idle it takes a while to get used to but initially I would feel the glovebox rattle excessively. The feeling has since sort of went away just due to me going mostly noseblind over it so to speak. They are overall awesome and I recommend them to anyone who wheels even moderately hard, trail, or is a dune blaster. It's a small price and bit of time installing to pay for a piece of mind.

 

I have a lot of experience in aluminum welding and using epoxy. It possible for the epoxy to work short term if you get the right type for aluminum but it still wont last. It does not expand the same way as the metal when heated. Welding it would not be that hard but it has to be supper clean and the oil inside will contaminate the piss out of the weld and you will have leaks and a butt ass ugly weld.

 

Thank you so much for all the info. Really appreciate it. Going to have it towed to my local Toyota dealership tomorrow and see what they say and reference what you posted here. I don't want to risk the JB weld option