4LO-Trac & ABS Kill Switch - Why/Why Not?

I read through the whole "original thread" linked in the OP. Sounds like if you put a switch on the yellow wire it will let you turn the blinking light off.

What you'll have to do is switch to 4L like normal and the light will flash, then flip the switch to close the circuit. apparently this will stop the light blinking but still leave TRAC on.

It sounds like the ECU for the TRAC system only cares about that circuit at the time of engaging 4L. but the light cares all the time

 

Ahh, well that's not worth setting up a another switch for me.

 

I agree. you got me really curious about it, but now that I've read up on it I don't think it's worth the trouble. Might just take the bulb out of the gauge cluster if it bothers me.

 

Put a piece of electrical tape over the blinking light Ez Pz

 

I wonder if there's any way to wire some sort of "interrupter" between the two ends of the cut wire that blocks the current the first time it passes through, but then opens back up on the second try.

 

You could use a time delay relay.

 

Researching it now.

 

So far I've only found the opposite of what we need: a time delay that cuts the circuit after certain amount of time (i.e. dome light).

 

Look for double throw time delay relay. The double throw gives a common, normally open, and normally closed points. The relay still has to have some sort of control for the coil, such as a momentary switch that sends 12vdc to the relay coil.

 

Well I'm not sure how that signal in the yellow wire works. I'd have to check with a multimeter before I could find a relay I think would work. if it's as simple as 0V when in 4H and 12V in 4L a power switched, on delay relay would do the trick. They are usually adjustable from 0.1s delay up to 10s or sometimes a couple minutes. not cheap though

 

Yeah I did find one from Del City for 60 bucks. Weird how the reverse of what we need is cheaper.

I would imagine it's 0V until you switch onto 4L. That connector wouldn't need any other power into it. One thing I did try out of curiosity, was I grounded the end that goes into the connector. That caused the the 4LO light to flash indefinitely, even when 4LO wasn't engaged.

 

I thought about that as well. I'm trying to avoid having a switch at all at this point.

 

Use the time delay relay to control 12vdc, then get a cheap SPDT relay with 12vdc coil, which is then used to control the connection of the yellow wire. Time delay controls basic relay, and it's done.
Next question, how do you control the time delay relay? It has to receive coil voltage from somewhere, and that is the point of the switch. You could easily use a push button that doesn't hold to start the time delay relay, but at that point, just hold the button for 10seconds and skip all the relays.

 

I'll be honest. If that's the only way, I'll live with the blinking.

 

There are multiple ways. They just vary by how much time they take to complete and cost of various materials.

The 4lo light blinks at you with the yellow wire disconnect and truck in 4lo because it isn't seeing something it wants to see.

 

I know I'm Reviving an old thread but will this work on a 3rd gen?

 

May be an old thread, but not necessarily outdated. Yellow wire mod would be easy to test. Somehow I doubt it will be exactly the same on 3rd gen, but should be pretty close I would imagine.

 

I should have been more specific
I was referring to the abs kill switch mod.....

 

Does ABS suck on the 3rd gens too?

 

In the first snow of this winter/ my first snow With this truck I had disabled the traction control And a few times the abs engaging did mess me up a little
So yes?