Stoptech Big Brake Kit Group Buy 2005-2017 Tacoma and Others

Did a test fit yesterday, rotors no problem, but the caliper mounting bracket hits my ABS sensor. Keep in mind I have the @dirt designs long travel kit so it may be in a slightly different position. So I need the bracket to be notched about 1/4" to clear the sensor plug. I removed the sensor to see if everything else fits. Put the pads and caliper on, all bolted up not rubbing on anything that I could see or hear. Looks massive! Just need to find a machine shop to notch the bracket.

 

Looks awesome man! I'm going to try to do mine this weekend.

 

Damn You Tacoma World!!!!!

I'd have more money if I was a crackhead....

 

When you did this, I must ask. Did you install the lug nuts to the rotor and snug them down? Then turn the rotor to see if it still spun freely?

If not, I cannot stress it enough to do so. You'll know quickly if it is 100% good to go, or if there is a bind between rotor and caliper, which would mean that the caliper bracket isn't spaced correctly. Not trying to scare anyone, but it is a necessary test.

 

Yup, put 2 lugs on, snugged them down. spun it and it was smooth. Listened for grinding or rubbing.

 

Perfect.

 

Looks damn good! Don't forget to break in the pads properly.

 

I'm in it to win it. Just hoped on this bandwagon.

 

I also am waiting on new brake lines. The included aren't quite long enough for the LT kit.

 

Yeah, I just lucked out and had an extended set installed with my LT/MT kit

 

I just got mine on today. I'll do a write up since not everything's is in the instructions.

Was so worth it!

 

Ok, I figured I would do a quick write up since some things were not in the instructions provided but I found out with a bit of research. Sorry if some of the pics are blurry.

1. First step is all the basics. Apply ebrake, jackup truck, apply jack stands and remove tires.
2. Loosen and almost remove the two bolts holding the stock caliper in place.
   
   
3. Next you want to remove the clips holding the brake line, save theses for later.
   
   
   
4. Inside of one of the bags with the new brake lines are these little rubber caps. Grab them and have them handy, one for each side.
   
   
5. Using a 17mm wrench and a 10mm flare nut wrench remove the stock brake line. Start at the caliper hard line, then remove the upper one. This helps so you son't leak fluid everywhere. Once the line is removed, grab the rubber cap from step 4 and put it on the hard line coming from the engine bay. This should keep everything clean and minimize the fluid loss.
   
   
6. Remove the stock caliper and rotor and you should have a big empty space.
   
   
7. Next you want to prep your new calipers by removing the top caps. Leave these to the side for now.
   
   
   
8. Next you want to make sure your heat shield clears your rotors and calipers. The best way is to install the rotor, notices where it rubs and cut. You should eventually be able to snug the rotor down with a few lugs and rotate. If you hear any noise or feel rubbing, check all around. Here are before and after pics of how much I cut. I was going to install 4Runner shields but these might work.
   
   
   
9. Once you have cleared everything it's time to install the caliper bracket. The two main bolts need a bit of blue lock tite, Stop Tech recommends red, but this is all I had. The supplied instructions also say to torque these down to 60ft/lbs, StopTech says 120 and stock is 191. I thought 60 was too little so I did 100. There is no science behind the decision, I just don't want the bracket to fall off.
   
   
   
10. Mount the rotor and hold it in place with a few lug nuts and mount the caliper. The staked nuts and washers go on top. StopTech says 40ftlbs for these and the instructions say 50. I did 50. Once the capers are torqued down spin the rotor and check the spacing in the center of the caliper to make sure there is no contact and everything is even.
    
    
    
11. Now you want to put the pads in and replace the caliper bridge. I used a bit of pad grease on the back of the pad and the friction areas. When assembling the bridge the bolts are just snug. ST says they are 14ftlbs, but because of the antiseize material you can over tighten them. It's not a structural part so don't get crazy. Arrows face up on the bridge.
    
    
12. Finally its time to install the brake line. First snake the line through the mount on the spindle and install the banjo mount facing down and torque to 14ftlbs. Then instal the clip on spindle mount. Note the orientation of the flat surfaces on the mount, the mate with the same flats on the line mount. The upper assembly can get tricky becuase once you take the rubber cap off you are fighting brake fluid. I removed the cap and snugged the line down enough that the whole thing would still spin with the 17mm wrench. I moved it around until the flats lined up and I inserted the clip, then I torqued everything down. Here is how the brake like should look installed. Make sure it's not contacting anything when installed.
    
    
    
13. Bleeding is straight forward. Start with the outer right, inner right, then outer left and inner left. They surprisingly do not need a lot of fluid, it seemed equal to stock.
14. Break in is very important. The performance of the whole system depends on it. Accelerate to 60 then aggressively brake to 5. Repeat immediately 10 times. Do not come to a complete stop so that you don't leave deposits on the rotor. After you are done, drive around to allow the brakes to cool.
15. You're all done! Grab a beer and bask in the glory of big brakes.
    

 

Did you order a set?!

 

yes sir in red

 

Is there a last day for this deal?
im wanting a set but waiting on my 15th of the month paycheck

 

@Iggy.

Were the supplied brakelines long enough for your suspension set up? How high is your lift up front?

@sytfu510

Do you mind sharing where you got the "longer" extended s/s brakeslines? I'd appreciate it.

 

Yes more than enough for me. I only have about a 2.5" lift up front, but extended travel fronts, so in the pic with the line installed, the truck is at full droop. Any lower and the UCA will hit the spring coil.

I think @SCSPerformance looked and his fit on his LT.

 

Iggy is correct. The supplied brake line should work with my front Camburg LT kit. I drooped out the front end and there's a little slack left. This shouldn't be an issue for any MT setup.

 

My brakes came in today. Holy fuck these calipers are HUGE! They really fit inside 17" rims??

 

Just got them today. They made extensions for the supplied lines. They had a local location to me.

http://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com