Replacing ADD actuator

So I'm looking to replace my ADD actuator. I already have the part, but the issue is getting the old one off and the new one on. It clearly won't come out without removing other parts. There is simply not enough clearance. To anyone who has replaced this before, what parts did you need to remove in order to do this job? I can't see how you'd get it past the transmission, so my worry is that I will have to remove the front diff. But I'd like to make sure before I try something that big. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.

 

Sub'd

 

Which brand of actuator did you purchase, OP? It looks like I am about to tackle this as well. My actuator is fine, but the nub on top of the diaphragm broke off inside the vacuum hose and I am betting I can't purchase the diaphragm individually. Rather than repairing it half-assedly with super glue, I would rather replace the entire part.

Either way, I am going to have to do this same job. If you have already torn into it (OP), maybe you can offer some advice.

 

Well since creating this thread, I got advice from other users and someone else came over and gave me a hand.

I bought an OEM one secondhand. That would be my first route. Check CL or the parts market place on here.

It's a bit different for me than for you, since I have a 1st gen, and you have a 2nd gen. For me, it basically involves loosening the mounts for the front diff enough so it could be lowered enough to get the actuator out. For you, it should be easier. The reason we had to do what we did is that on 1st gens, the steering rack is behind the front diff and directly blocks the actuator. I'm told that on 2nd gens, the rack is in front of the diff and therefore not in the way. As with 1st gens, I imagine any factory skid plates will need to come off. I can't give much advice on the method used for 2nd gens, but keep a few things in mind.
-have gear oil on hand since you will lose some when removing the actuator
-get RTV gasket maker for sealing the actuator to the diff
-make sure to disconnect all hoses, connectors, and clips that (I had one of each)
-when reconnecting, make sure the electrical connectors are clean (some gear oil got on mine during the removal)
-make sure the fork on the actuator and the sleeve in the diff match up when assembling. If not, move the sleeve by hand to match the fork

Assuming it's largely the same setup down there, minus the rack being in the way, you it shouldn't be much of an issue. Yours should be easier than mine was.

 

Thanks for all of this Mike. I do have the gen 1, so it will be identical to yours I would imagine. Sounds like a pain, but I guess I will give it a shot.

 

I had this same issue. I removed the plastic cap and got the nub out of the hose and JB welded it back together. Make sure the JB welded doesn't block the hole and doesn't get so thick on the nub the hose won't go back on. So far, so good.

 

Has anyone tried a non-OEM actuator? I have my eye on a "Dorman", but I don't know if this is a reputable company, especially for something like this. I always see Dorman stuff in the "Help" section at auto parts stores, so I am hesitant.

If I can't find a reasonable deal on an OEM, I guess I will try to repair mine, though I would rather not.

 

I am not meaning to thread-jack you, OP, but it sounds like you have yours repaired already and I would rather not start another new thread.

 

Oh you do have a gen 1? Then you should be able to follow these instructions.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/nj-b-s-thread.274779/page-1832#post-13178469

We did undo the 4 bolts for the front drive shaft, but we didn't actually remove it. I am assuming that's what he meant? We weren't seeing how actually removing it would help.

I haven never personally used Dorman, but I do see it a a common replacement brand. Wouldn't be a bad idea to research a bit about the brand as a whole, beforehand, however.

No that's fine. May as well use this thread rather than starting another for the same thing.

 

Thanks again, Mike. I am dreading this job a little, but at least I know what I have to do now.

I am too fat and old to be crawling under cars anymore. haha

 

haha well I am sure you can manage it. It will definitely help to have the truck jacked up on stands.
If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask. I will help if I can/when I get to it. I will reply right away if I can. As long as I am not sleeping, it should be no issue for me to reply. But if you have a question during the job, and thus would like a response sooner, send me a message on here letting me know (but post the question in this thread for any future folks) so I will get an email to get my attention, in case I am at work.

 

Wanna sell me your OEM one?

 

Sure thing, I will let you know one way or another as soon as I decide.

 

Hello Comatized, I ended up reusing my actuator. I could not stomach the thought of spending $200 on a new one since it was only the vacuum nub that broke off.


If anyone else is interested, here is what I did:
I bought a small brass fitting with a barbed end and a threaded end to replace the nub that broke off. I tapped the plastic housing on my existing actuator, and JB Welded the brass fitting in place. It seems like it is pretty solid now. I can't imagine it will break in this spot again. I guess I ended up using a variation of your idea after all, and it works great! haha.

Thank you guys for the support and suggestions, it saved me some $$$.

 

And... by the way... I did remove the actuator to drill and tap it. I probably didn't have to, but I wanted to gently clamp it in a vise while I worked on it. I didn't have the dexterity to work on it in place.

 

Where did you get the brass fitting?

 

I purchased this at "Tractor Supply", but I imagine it is a common fitting that can be purchased at most hardware stores (just a guess). It is fine threaded on one side and barbed on the other for rubber tubing. Honestly, I am not sure what the fitting is intended for, but it worked perfectly for my application. I tapped the ADD housing and JB welded the fitting in place, it seems to be holding nicely.

 

Did the stock vent hose fit on it, or did you have to do something else?

 

I used the stock hose. The nub on the actuator broke off in the end of the hose, so I just cut about 1/2" off of it and reused my existing hose. "Tractor Supply" had several sizes of brass fittings, I think I used 1/8" on the barbed side for the hose.

 

I repaired mine, but got a little ruff with it tonight and forgot about the nub and broke it off again. It's kind of a pain to get out, so I wanted to fix it right