Wyoming B.S. Thread

Actually. You know what i REALLY want?

The entine lower crossmember. Pretty sure it is tweaked after the two LBJ explosions. The steering rack is like twisting. Its almost impossible to remove and install. I wouldn't mind cutting the entire crossmember off and welding it on Frank.....

Eh. may just wait for my own parts rig though. Thats a big project.

 

Soon as I get the engine out and on a stand and the 4wd drive stuff off I'm going to part it out. You are welcome to it. I don't think I want to try and rebuild it into something else. Rather buy a reg cab to play with next

 

Well if I don't have something by then We can work something out.

 

FWIW, I've been running the iTREs and oTREs from lowrange for while now. They've held up to a lots of abuse. I will buy them again when the time comes. Can't beat the price compare to OEM from a dealership.

555 is not moog. 555 is Sankei. IIRC Mr Dirty Pool has written that Sankei has more than one grade of product. The top grade is stamped 555. Moog stuff is also made by Sankei but it is not the 555 grade, it is a lower grade.

 

Might as well take the fame and swap frank onto it lol

 

Just got a quote from our dealer

$61 for the outer
$191 for the inner

If these don't work out then I will take the plunge for that

 

You can get a whole new OEM rack with OEM ITREs for $600.

I don't know of a good quality aftermarket ITRE.

 

So swung by the Toyota dealership here in Casper at lunch. They have a 2017 TRD Pro Tundra for $48k and change. Barcelona red. ITs nice, but hell for the price I I would go buy a platinum and add the offroad capability myself.

Pro has leather, but no heated seats, none of the nice things on limited or platinum. Only aesthetic advantages are the trd bed (which is dumb) color matched (like platinum) and a neat shift knob which you can buy. Skid plate looks decent and shocks look good but thats about it.

After doing some shopping around its kinda between the Tundra and a GMC/Chevy with the 6.2. That 6.2 is awesome, lots of power and seems to be "alot" easier on the mpgs when your not on it.

 

Haha....eh...nah. That's a lot..too much.

Plus that frame might not be any better then what I have

 

Oil consumption identified.

 

What vehicle is that?

 

Lol. Well shit

 

More boost ought to fix that...

 

It's actually a 357 (350 bored .040 over) i pulled from a running 79 k10 pickup to build into a stroker motor for a derby car.

 

Any tips for pulling leaf springs apart? I think I'm going to pull apart my Skycrappers tonight and try to make a franken-pack.

Took Fugly out for the first voyage last night and the rear end rides like a box wagon.

 

Get a good pair of C-clamps

 

Probably because those leafs are super stiff. You need more weight I think.

All you need is one or two C clamps.

 

Yeah they are way too stiff. I think I have my stock leafs laying around somewhere so I might try to piece something together that doesnt ride like a 2x4.

 

Could do that.

Id either do the main leaf for the skyjacker and shortest leaf.

Or main from stock, second sky jacker and rest stock. Though that won't give you much lift.

 

Kinda what i'm thinking as well. Use the Skyjacker main and sandwich in the OEM leafs to my liking. I could use some new shackles anyways so if i need a bit of lift I'll get some that are a tad longer.