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Rear Differential Question

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by buckhunter95, Oct 28, 2016.

  1. Nov 3, 2016 at 8:12 PM
    #21
    97handmedown

    97handmedown Well-Known Member

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    Why not weld a plate of steel over the top of the hole? Like a metal redneck bandaid?
     
  2. Nov 3, 2016 at 9:50 PM
    #22
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    there was a user recently that cut off the axle's weeping backside
    and welded on an aft. mkt. Rr cover. (forget the vendor)

    I'm not going to link it...
    because I don't think the weld work is worthy.

    But if ya can use a cut-off wheel and weld properly it's another option.

    I'd suggest draining the oil
    and pulling the 3rd member before prep and weld.

    But possibly the internals can remain and be protected by weld shielding.
    Just sayin' 'cuz the guy who did his left the third member in place during his effort.

    Supposedly he didn't weld the diff... or fubar the internals.
    according to what he said.

    But I'd still pull my 3rd member just to be safe.
     
    Aught2TaCO and 97handmedown like this.
  3. Nov 4, 2016 at 10:25 AM
    #23
    97handmedown

    97handmedown Well-Known Member

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    "If the weld holds, it's good enough. If it's not good enough, cut if off and weld it again."

    The words of my buddies grandpa who's hands are too shaky to do a clean weld. :thumbsup:
     
  4. Nov 4, 2016 at 2:21 PM
    #24
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    Can one fix their weld fubars !?
    yeah... I'll suppose so

    Weld's can be re-ground and re-welded if one must.
    But if it wasn't welded properly in the first place...
    how would one expect round two to be any better ?

    Welders with hand tremors and poor eyesight
    need to pay for the use of a younger welding guru
    Whom isn't half blind and has no hand tremors. Lol

    I'm a self taught welder and can weld better then just good enough.
    But I'm definitely no professional laying nickle welds.
    My hands are fairly steady... but my eyesight isn't getting better.

    The problem with fixing booger or cold welds
    is that excessive heat applied to the work area can be bad.

    Too much heat applied during the welding process and the axle housing could warp.
    If the carrier/diff is mounted in a warped axle center chunk...
    things are gonna wear out prematurely or fail quickly depending.

    Escessive weld passes generates more heat...
    so allow for cool down while trying to weld (fill) in
    the remaining pin holes that will leak.

    If the pin holes are weeping residual...
    the welder won't like that contamination.
    And ya might as well just seal those fubar welds up
    with JB cold-weld chit. And hope for the best !? Lol

    Realize... that overlaying atop old weld passes...
    is still only going to be as good as the first weld laid.
    If the first pass is a cold /or contaminated weld... another pass won't fix that.

    A single, quality weld pass... should be all that's required.

    IMO

    Welding on an axle's center chunk cover should be done right the first time.
    A clean ground and 220v welder gets it done without generating excessive heat.

    The smaller 120v welders tend not to have enough gumption (voltage)
    and generally create more heat for the same amount of weld area.

    The 120v welders tend to penetrate less and can create cold welds easily.
    And poor welds often require more weld passes to seal / hold.
    120v welders work less effectively if there's contamination on the work.

    With a really good ground and cleaned weld surface... a 120v welder can get it done.

    But if dealing with lesser quality grounds, surface contamination...
    220v with CO2/Argon gas does better most every time.

    Stick welding would be best because it ignores contamination better then MIG.
    But MIG get's it done too, just need to clean up the ground and weld surface better.

    I won't even weld with my 220v unless it's using a gas mix or at least CO2.
    I'd think that utilizing gas is even more critical when using 120v MIG welders.
     
  5. Nov 5, 2016 at 12:14 AM
    #25
    97handmedown

    97handmedown Well-Known Member

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    Holy novel.

    I was mostly joking.
     
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  6. Nov 6, 2016 at 5:19 PM
    #26
    buckhunter95

    buckhunter95 [OP] Member

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    Spent the day yesterday dropping the old axle out and swapping the new one in! Feels good to be back behind the wheel of my Tacoma after about a week apart

    IMG_5390-1.jpg
     
    Your-10Ply-Bud and jjsul like this.
  7. Nov 6, 2016 at 7:35 PM
    #27
    Aught2TaCO

    Aught2TaCO Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking of the same thread you mentioned as I was reading the post, and totally agree with you. Unless it's a performance or looks set up, just repair the housing. It's worth it in the long run.

    EDIT: Late to the show, good to see OP went the best route he could to be happy. Congrats!
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2016
  8. Nov 6, 2016 at 7:45 PM
    #28
    Pushincaskets

    Pushincaskets Well-Known Member

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    Drill it, tap it, plug it :sawzall:
     
  9. Nov 7, 2016 at 11:26 AM
    #29
    OneWheelPeel

    OneWheelPeel Well-Known Member

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    I read all your posts in the voice of old man Morgan Freeman with a 2 second pause at the end of each line.
     
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  10. Nov 7, 2016 at 1:04 PM
    #30
    bry838

    bry838 Well-Known Member

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    Haha lol!! Makes it so epic!
     

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