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Heated seat wiring help

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by maxpower29, Nov 6, 2016.

  1. Nov 8, 2016 at 3:45 PM
    #61
    road2cycle

    road2cycle Well-Known Member

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    Even if you find unused spots (I believe there are a few) on the fuse panel I would be hesitant to run anything of significant current (i.e. more than an amp or two) draw unless you know for certain what the wiring on that circuit/spot is rated for. If you are thinking of running the seat heater pads from one of these unused fuse locations honestly I would not risk it since the results could be a burned vehicle due to an electrical wiring overload. You can run the "control" signal for the relays from an unused fuse spot since the current draw will be very minimal.
     
  2. Nov 8, 2016 at 3:50 PM
    #62
    moondeath

    moondeath Well-Known Member

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    I agree with this. Its very easy to burn a wire from being overloaded. And once 1 wire melts and a short happens, then your whole harness goes up.

    IMG_2299.jpg


    Super heated seats!!
     
  3. Nov 8, 2016 at 3:57 PM
    #63
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    True makes sense
     
  4. Nov 8, 2016 at 4:00 PM
    #64
    moondeath

    moondeath Well-Known Member

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    Too bad you're way up in Canada, or that Im way down here in Pa. Id be all about helping you out with installing those.
     
  5. Nov 9, 2016 at 3:59 AM
    #65
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    All season mats, 2nd filter delete, DT header, Jardine cat-back, URD shifter, Bilstein 5100's all around at .85 front with Eibachs + .25 passenger/.5 drivers spacers and 1.5 AAL, 0w20 synthetic, Scanguage II, extra D rings, OEM backup camera+Mirror, bed mat, Extang Solid Fold, Popnlock 5300, Pro Comp 7089's 4.5bs 285/70/17 Revo 2s, De-badged
    I'll have to try and find someone
     
  6. Nov 12, 2016 at 8:20 AM
    #66
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    All season mats, 2nd filter delete, DT header, Jardine cat-back, URD shifter, Bilstein 5100's all around at .85 front with Eibachs + .25 passenger/.5 drivers spacers and 1.5 AAL, 0w20 synthetic, Scanguage II, extra D rings, OEM backup camera+Mirror, bed mat, Extang Solid Fold, Popnlock 5300, Pro Comp 7089's 4.5bs 285/70/17 Revo 2s, De-badged
    So after checking over the fuses today I see that both the ignition and the cig power are 15 amp and separate. I am thinking I will just splice into both of these with the red power wire like we talked before and not try anything else too confusing. Will I blow my face off is the question or is it a final good idea?
     
  7. Nov 12, 2016 at 8:24 AM
    #67
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    All season mats, 2nd filter delete, DT header, Jardine cat-back, URD shifter, Bilstein 5100's all around at .85 front with Eibachs + .25 passenger/.5 drivers spacers and 1.5 AAL, 0w20 synthetic, Scanguage II, extra D rings, OEM backup camera+Mirror, bed mat, Extang Solid Fold, Popnlock 5300, Pro Comp 7089's 4.5bs 285/70/17 Revo 2s, De-badged
    Using the add a fuse if I can find one I will also add
     
  8. Nov 12, 2016 at 9:13 AM
    #68
    moondeath

    moondeath Well-Known Member

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    As long as the heater isn't on while you try to start the truck. Both together will be above the rated fuse. When hooking up just make sure the battery is disconnected.
     
  9. Nov 12, 2016 at 9:20 AM
    #69
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    All season mats, 2nd filter delete, DT header, Jardine cat-back, URD shifter, Bilstein 5100's all around at .85 front with Eibachs + .25 passenger/.5 drivers spacers and 1.5 AAL, 0w20 synthetic, Scanguage II, extra D rings, OEM backup camera+Mirror, bed mat, Extang Solid Fold, Popnlock 5300, Pro Comp 7089's 4.5bs 285/70/17 Revo 2s, De-badged
    Thanks. I will 100% make sure they are not on when I start the truck. Is there a better option then with a higher rated fuse?
     
  10. Nov 12, 2016 at 9:42 AM
    #70
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok so now that I re read this I think I get what your saying. I should take the red power wire from both sets of heaters all the way to the battery by themself. Then take the relay and re wire it so that one of the wires from both relays (need to figure out which one) is hooked to the power of the cig lighter. Is this correct? If so how to I figure out which one?
     
  11. Nov 12, 2016 at 9:56 AM
    #71
    moondeath

    moondeath Well-Known Member

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    You can't increase the fuse size. Its rating is specific to protecting that wire from burning.



    Close. You still need to run the heater wire through the relay. I'd have to get back to you about which one is which.
     
  12. Nov 12, 2016 at 9:58 AM
    #72
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Oh ok, so the red goes to the relay, then to to battery? How do I connect them correctly and which ones
     
  13. Nov 12, 2016 at 9:59 AM
    #73
    moondeath

    moondeath Well-Known Member

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    Use this diagram to determine what is what on your relay.


    IMG_2314.jpg
     
  14. Nov 12, 2016 at 10:05 AM
    #74
    moondeath

    moondeath Well-Known Member

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    This is exactly how you would wire it.
    Power from battery (which is what will eventually power heater) is pin 30.
    Ground is pin 85.
    Connection to cig or ignition is pin 86.
    Directly to heater is pin 87.



    IMG_2315.jpg
     
  15. Nov 12, 2016 at 10:18 AM
    #75
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    OK so this red wire attached already is where the power from the battery has to go right? So I just take this one out and run from the battery to here? Is that what is called common?

    IMG_20161112_1416303.jpg
     
  16. Nov 12, 2016 at 10:22 AM
    #76
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    I don't know if this was mentioned already....
    My husband and I installed one heated seat in my 2007.
    Don't know if it'll help....or not.

    Here's a writeup
    http://www.lieblweb.com/heatedseat.html
     
  17. Nov 12, 2016 at 10:27 AM
    #77
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes thank you, I actually have this bookmarked already lol. I just cant seem to understand electrical anything. Like right now we are talking relays and I dont even know what they do yet lol. Once I finish pipefitting I am doing electrical for sure
     
  18. Nov 12, 2016 at 11:33 AM
    #78
    moondeath

    moondeath Well-Known Member

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    The problem is without seeing it in person or a schematic, everything is just an assumption as to which wire is which in that harness and relay. That relay looks like an unorganized mess to me. In that writeup above they only show 1 red wire getting hooked up to a power source, which leads me to believe that the loose red wire is the power to both the heater and relay. Probably easier just to hook it up as you were going to do.
     
  19. Nov 12, 2016 at 12:16 PM
    #79
    road2cycle

    road2cycle Well-Known Member

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    Running the seat heater power from the battery is the best option in my opinion. Yes, it will take longer to get it wired up but done correctly you don't run the risk of an electrical overload or blowing a fuse on a shared circuit. I wouldn't want to run the risk of blowing a fuse if the seat heaters share power with some other circuit nor would I have to have to remember to make sure the seat heaters are turned off before starting the truck.

    If you do decide to tap into the driver side fuse panel using an add-a-fuse just be sure that you've inserted it correctly. The fuse that you add (for the seat heaters) MUST NOT work without the original fuse also installed into the add-a-fuse. If it does that you need to flip the add-a-fuse around. The reason for this is that the power for the added connection MUST pass through both the original fuse AND the added fuse (for your seat heaters) to protect the wiring between the battery and the fuse panel since that wiring is only rated for the original fuse.
     
  20. Nov 12, 2016 at 1:53 PM
    #80
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sounds good guys, I went to the hardware store today and looked at everything when its not wired and its so much easier to understand. I think I am going to consider completely re wiring it like you guys are suggesting and going from the battery. From what I understand I'll go from the battery to the relay, then to the heating pads. Then wire the relay to the fuse box into the cig lighter. Question though is can I hook both seats relays to the same cig lighter if the power is not involved? Because it will be much lower
     

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