mapecu3 feeler/possible group buy AF

Would you recommend it over a ucon?

 

Dang would @MadTaco461 know or is 1st and 2nd gen diff?

 

Yes, You'd need the AFR module if you choose to modify your closed loop AFR. I don't remember the years Toyota made the switch from o2 sensor to AFR sensor. Somewhere around 02+ and maybe earlier for CA specific engines.

 

Number 4 says u can adjust them and the only afr module i found on urdusa was for the mapecu2 am i right?

 

I only know my truck. Once mine goes into open loop you can control AFR with your fuel tables. My gut says you have full open loop control without it, but ask Gadget. I know certain vehicles can trim open loop fueling to a degree.

 

On my Map2, I had to have the AFR module, to tune in Closed Loop.

The UCON is more advantageous for the 2nd gen, for a number of reasons. Also comes with that extra price tag. It is not however user tune able. ONLY URD can tune it.

Map3 is End User tune able. You or your tuner can fiddle with it. The only down side to the Map3, for the second Gen (at least the Map2) is that I could not override the speed governor. Really important while on the track. The 2nd gen speed governor is controlled by the DBW throttle. It closes at limit. There are ways around that though....

 

I installed a urd s/c kit for a customer with a second gen. It came from urd with a map 2 and afr module. The truck threw a lean code, I didn't get an actual afr reading, as the customer refused to add a wideband (can't fix stupid). Gadget had me disconnect the afr module which temporarily made the lean codes go away, I suspect it still ran lean, just not as lean. If you go map 3 I'd plan on taking the truck straight to a tuner after install.


@Torspd i know the ucon is more expensive, but it does include cam gears and the new thermostat. It also self tunes to some extent. If you were looking smooth out the power band and weren't trying to increase the rev limiter or squeeze every last bit of power out of the motor (I've owned a handful of fast FI track cars, I realize the truck will never be fast), would you still go map3? I like the idea of being able to change small components like intakes as my build changes direction without having to retune. In the grand scheme cost isn't really a factor especially when we're only talking about a $500 difference. I'd prefer to do the swap once and be done with it.


Also how much more will I gain by going map3 over the urd maf calibrator with built in sensor. I have one of those sitting on my work bench. Bought it new from a member for $150

 

so do I need to email gadget and confirm or deny this or can I message him on here, how active is he?

 

What are you trying to confirm?

 

if the mapecu3 can tune close loop on 2nd gens

 

It definitely can tune Closed loop on the 2nd gen. Just needs that AFR module. Which will raise that price about another 100.

Overall, the Map3 has a ton of features, which would need to be compared against the UCON. For a turbo person, it might very well be beneficial to have the Map3, since you DO NOT use the cam gears with a turbo setup. Then just buy the t-stat separately. It can tune on MAP or MAF-intercept. Whereas the UCON only can tune with MAF.

The Map3, for group-buy purposes can be for 1st or 2nd gen owners.

Now as far as simplicity goes, N/A or S/C, and in a few current instances Turbo, install and ease of operation with the UCON is hands down the easiest. Tell URD what power adder you have ( incase larger injectors are needed) and they ship it out with the proper tune. Plug it in, check it with a datalog and it should be good to go.

Turbo makes it more complicated, primarily on the 1GR. @RedLantern knows the In's and Out's of that process.

 

It all comes down to how much time you as the buyer want to invest in learning how to tune, or if the added ease of tune/install is worth the extra money.

Don't forget, the Map3 can be directly wired in, or have a plug n play harness used as well (1st or 2nd gen). That the raises the price again, though. About ~$300-500.

 

I've hard wired the map ecu's in. It's pretty easy. It's kinda crazy how few wires are actually used.

 

It is what? 14 or 17?

 

I thought I read 7




edit
19. Simple piggy-back installation only requires 7 wires to operate with no major re-wiring of OEM components.

 

ECU and AFR module.

 

gotcha

 

bump and right now it looks like
1 @yota243
2 @6xchamps
3 @Biscuits
4
5
6
7
8
9
10


yes?

 

bump. does say a 12/11 cutoff sound ok? I can place the order on the 12th and everyone should get there stuff by Christmas that way

 

Ask the Mods to move this to the GB section. Might receive more exposure there.