Show off your Mountain Bike!!!

Dude that fork is nuts.

Coot

 

Living in the Wasatch has its perks.

Lambert Park in Alpine
Pinecone in Park City
The night i bought my 2nd Gen
Bobsled in SLC

 

So I have since done the Stans no tube conversion, but seem to have a slow leak maybe a few lbs every few days, is this normal?

 

Hmm I would think that is a little fast of a leak rate, granted I say this without ever going tubeless. Could be worth filling up your bath tub and dunk the wheel and see if any bubbles show?

Coot

 

Normal? Yeah, kind of. Ideal? No. sometimes tires just leak. Did you do the tubeless conversion yourself? Sometimes the tape isn't sealing well, or it could be the stem, or just the tire itself.
Something that helps is to put a little extra stan's in, air it up, and just shake the wheel like mad.
But sometimes the thing just leaks a little. It might be seeping through the tire itself. Notice little air bubbles on the side of the tire?
I've had the same setup for nearly a year, packed the bike up and flown round trip to another country and did a week tour of some rugged stuff including river crossings, and the tires are fine - until last week when the rear started to slowly leak over the course of a week. Tubeless is just weird like that.

 

I did the conversion myself, the kit came with narrow tape so I did two passes on the first rim, and bought another roll from a local bike shop and that tape was 1" so I did the other with a single pass.
I'll try adding some more sealer and go from their

 

If they aren't tubeless wheels, you may need the rubber rim strip that has a valve stem built in. Also, depending on which tires you use, the sidewalls could be porous and leaking air or just soaking up the sealant. You can spray soapy water all over the wheel and tire and see exactly where it's leaking from.

 

I did do the rim strip I want tubless rims I just have a hard time spending more for my bike wheels then I did for my truck wheels (I got my truck wheels for $400) I'm going to order the injector plunger deal to add the sealant thru the valve stem and add some more sealer.
Before I added the sealant I set the bead just to make sure everything set and the sidewall was leaking around the whole tire. Could the tire be the problem?

 

Your wheels don't need to be tubeless from the start - that's what the rim tape and stem is for. Your tires DO need to be tubeless ready though, otherwise like mentioned above, the tire could seep or absorb. You'll probably notice the occasional bubbles on your sidewall. That's not necessarily a bad thing, unless it's actively bubbling.

 

Got the Salas's loaded up. El mariachi 29ers




Cheers!

 

my bottom bracket constantly creaks on my carbon jekyll. press fit bb30 bottom brackets are the worst. hopefully fix that sometime.

my stans conversion leaked for a few weeks but now seems to be holding up for the most part. I have pretty thin specialized tires on there so when they get rock wear they start seeping out of the sidewall a bit until the sealant plugs it up.

 

Defintiely upgrade your truck before you get here if you have the time. The trade in market for 2wd trucks is brutal here. Welcome to CO when you both get here, the riding is amazing....

Yeah, that's pretty normal for a Stan's setup on non-tubeless tires. The more you ride the tires, the more they will seal up over time. But you are always going to have to top off your tires before riding, tubeless is more maintenance. It's totally worth it for the traction IMHO.

 

yeah, probably going to switch out for a 70s vehicle, I don't drive much anymore. thanks! can't wait for less rocks.

 

with non tubeless rims, the bead is usually not going to seal and be airtight by itself. i like to paint sealant onto the bead to ensure a good seal. pop the bead on each side and pour some sealant at the top of the wheel as you hold it vertically. make sure the wheel is tilted in such a way to allow the sealant to run all the way down the bead. then re-inflate the tire and shake it like mad. definitely do the bucket trick by laying the wheel on its side over a bucket on each side. this will help seal the bead.

the tires don't really have to be tubeless. I've been running tubeless for 4 years and have never actually used a tubeless tire. certain tires are better than others based on the rubber compound that is inside the tire or how porous the tire itself is, but if you just use extra sealant it will seal up the sidewalls and stop seeping. right now i'm running conti trail kings with the protection casing. i have 0 issues with the sidewalls weeping. i ran WTB bronson exos for a year or so and they wept pretty bad after a few months. stans is known to eat the inside of the rubber away. i know numerous people that run straight-up nevegals (the non tubeless variety). the theory is that the non-tubeless tires are more supple and grab the terrain better. tubeless tires tend to have stiffer sidewalls.

 

+2 on non tubeless ready tires. I have run both as well. Some seal up better than others. Tubeless tires tend to be bear to get on and off with the stiff sidewalls. I am currently running a Specialized Purgatory up front on my Trek(blasphemy, right) and a Bontrager XR4 Team Issue in the rear. The Purgatory sealed up nice, but the Bontrager leaks on me. My special sauce is old so that may be my issue.

 

Maxxis Ardent (TLR) in the front for me. No air leakage at all.
Schwalbe Rock Razor (TLR) in the back. Seeps all the time now. Both great tires for grip, but the Schwalbe can't seem to keep air for too long. The Schwalbe was a bear to seat the bead, but the Maxxis was alright.

 

Here is your answer. Wheels Mfg threaded bb30. Is press fit but the bearing cups on each side are threaded together inside the bb shell with a pipe then cranks slide thru that.....just got this to replace a press fit bb86 that came on my Fuji Tread. They make them for shimano and sram. Shimano being 24mm on both sides (crankset pipe bearing IDs) and SRam being 22mm on one side and 24mm on the other. One side is pressed in(drive side) then the other side threads on to it and you use outboard bearing tool to pull it into the bb shell.

 

+1 on the Wheels Mfg BB30. Got this one to replace my factory spec bb after it rusted out way too quickly. The bearings are user replaceable and cheap-ish. Pretty quality too for not too much money.

 

ah yes, need to add that to my christmas list. I would be so much happier with that, thanks.

 

They have a ceramic version too. The ones with red bearing seals are ceramic.........and more expensive of course.