Send me to LED Light Bar School

Don't get led light bar get round hids like kc high lights or Kragen hids throw light much farther and truer than a light bar

 

It's about as simple as bringing wires through your firewall boot and mounting your switch. Took me about 15 mins to mount and install the whole light bar. Same amount of time when Un installing

 

I did mine and it was really easy. I just used the switch that came with the kit. I will have to look at wiring it into my high beams. They are really bright.

 

I've read something about dedicated relays for light bars...is that included in the wiring harness?

 

Worong harness should be all you need comes with in line fuse and shit only super paranoid people run relays. There is no need for them

 

sub'd

 

Purpose of the relay is to remove risk of having 20+ amps at the switch in the cab. A $6 relay is worth it to me to not have 20 amps at the switch.

 

I absolutely love my 31.5" 5D @CaliRaisedLed Light Bar with the Stealth brackets being the lower grille!

Here are some output shots of it!

 

I like light bars.. and for my use of once or twice a month during the summer when I'm out in the desert looking for camp spots after dark they work great. However, for my use I see them as a convenience item and can't justify spending top dollar on them. I've had a Totron brand 30" bar for about 3 years of pretty light use and it still works just fine.

I have the behind the grill bracket from SDHQ and will be putting 2x Ebay light bars in there wired up with a switchpros unit.

 

So what your saying is the the in-line fuse that comes with most light bars isn't enough protection? I'm not trying to sound like a dick if I sound that way I just don't understand what a relay does and I personally think the fuse is made for the proper power source and proper protection. If you can explain the use of the relay I'd love to learn something

 

For anything over 10 amps, personally no I don't think so. A fuse is meant for an over power event, when the device pulls too much current. A 300W light bar will pull 20.7 amps during normal operation. This means it will either have a 25 or 30 amp fuse in line. So every time you turn on the bar, there will be 20.7 amps going through the switch, which the switch itself might not be rated for.

Edit, a relay is an electrically powered switch. It receives the trigger power from the in-cab switch at 14.7 volts, and virtually no amps. The amps that the device draws(light bar in this case) flow through the relay, and not the switch. If there were to be a short or other event, the danger would be isolated in the engine compartment, not in the cab.

 

I used the cali raised bracket and used this light bar https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/191641256016

 

We are still deciding if we are going to
Do a sale or not.

 

In the link I provided the video is in it, if not look up CaliRaisedLed on YouTube.

 

How are you guys running your wire Harness? Has anyone bumped the fuse up to 50 amp? I am trying to figure out where I am going to mount the wire for best protection and a clean look. I have the hidden 32inch behind the bumper with a simple wire harness kit. Also are you guys running a second harness and set up for each of your Light bars or running a fuse bracket.

 

Bumping the fuse size up is not good. If the fuse keeps blowing there is another problem that needs to be addressed.

Each bar would need its own relay, each with its own fused power source. Now the two relays could be powered from one switch

 

Jelly of your LED game

 

We'll see now that makes sense then I haven't ever used them before but might start giving them a shot to see if I like them could completely change my wrong on everything

 

Also to the point of relays electrical current running through cable will encounter resistance. Resistance can equal heat. Heat can create fire. Fire is bad. Well, under your hood at any rate. By using a relay you can use shorter lengths of cable, especially important when dealing with high draw items like winches and HIDs.