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Closed (for now): Group Buy: IEDLS Polyurethane Carrier Bearing

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by 12TRDTacoma, Mar 11, 2016.

  1. Nov 13, 2016 at 9:04 AM
    #1201
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Most of the guys doing the mod are too busy to shoot a vid and their hands are usually filthy.
     
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  2. Nov 13, 2016 at 12:33 PM
    #1202
    DrFunker

    DrFunker Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]


    But you are right....it would be nice if someone did that. :rolleyes:
     
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  3. Nov 13, 2016 at 2:03 PM
    #1203
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    You should....
     
  4. Nov 14, 2016 at 10:17 AM
    #1204
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

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    It's not much different than all the other u joint/carrier replacement vids already on youtube, anyone should be able to figure it out, but a Tacoma specific would be nice. If no one makes one by the time I have to disassemble mine again then maybe I'll make one.
     
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  5. Nov 15, 2016 at 3:00 PM
    #1205
    HenrikBP

    HenrikBP Well-Known Member

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    How did your drive shaft angles work out with the new bearing?
     
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  6. Nov 15, 2016 at 3:05 PM
    #1206
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    see above. seems fine and no issues. still definitely not the lowest hanging thing under the truck.
     
  7. Nov 15, 2016 at 3:22 PM
    #1207
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    In for the, "My truck rides so much better now after installing this new CB" success stories.
     
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  8. Nov 15, 2016 at 3:40 PM
    #1208
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    mine for sure does. next up.. replace my radiator and body mount bushings with the Energy Poly's I have sitting in the garage.. then.. solid motor mounts..
     
  9. Nov 15, 2016 at 3:44 PM
    #1209
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    All excellent items for replacement. You will love the responsiveness and feel of the truck as a whole after it is all done. ;)
     
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  10. Nov 15, 2016 at 3:47 PM
    #1210
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    Yessir.. after reading up on all your posts, figured I would start. 85k hard miles, plus the extra demand from the performance mods.. it definitely needs the Poly shiz. cant wait.
     
  11. Nov 15, 2016 at 3:49 PM
    #1211
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    70K hard miles here… I never wanted to go the poly route, but I knew it was one I would have to do eventually. Glad I did.
     
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  12. Nov 15, 2016 at 3:55 PM
    #1212
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    the bushings will go in soon. just need time to disconnect all the harnesses and stuff. Motor Mounts will be the big one. maybe some time next year. just a PITA. but ooooh the power!
     
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  13. Nov 15, 2016 at 3:58 PM
    #1213
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    The only thing you have to disconnect is your upper portion of fender well aprons.




    As for the engine mounts. Good luck with that. :D It's just a total bitch and a half. Unless you remove your AC compressor (which I didn't do) it would make life so much easier.
     
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  14. Nov 15, 2016 at 4:18 PM
    #1214
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    I thought you had to disconnect some harnesses to get the play needed to get the body off the frame and get the bushings in? if not, even better!

    yeah, good thing is I have torn into it enough that it shouldnt be too bad. I need to replace my compressor anyways, so might do that at the same time actually.
     
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  15. Nov 15, 2016 at 4:21 PM
    #1215
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    It shouldn't be a factor. Just keep an eye on the ABS speed sensor harnesses as you are jacking it up. I would prefer you do this job with a second man just so one can keep an eye on the electrical wiring for you while you jack up your body specific side. Just be careful where on the body you jack it up from, use a block of wood as well, and try to get it at the pinch weld area. You don't a piece of the floor board to tear at the spot welds under the drivers seat like mine did. It's fixed and strong now, but I still strongly dislike that it even happened in the first place.
     
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  16. Nov 15, 2016 at 4:51 PM
    #1216
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    oh for sure. That's another reason why I havent started it yet. waiting for the help and time. Thanks for the tip. :cheers: Fortunately, this isnt my first rodeo, so should be good.
     
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  17. Nov 16, 2016 at 7:41 PM
    #1217
    HenrikBP

    HenrikBP Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the update. I'm chasing vibrations at the moment after a small lift.
     
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  18. Nov 17, 2016 at 3:58 AM
    #1218
    DrFunker

    DrFunker Well-Known Member

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    be careful.....
    [​IMG]
     
  19. Nov 17, 2016 at 6:44 AM
    #1219
    HenrikBP

    HenrikBP Well-Known Member

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    I know ... :) Not going to go crazy (... short walk at times :)). I have 90k miles on the truck so the rear U-joint could be toast. The carrier bearing has about 1/4 of "slop" in it: 1/4" unrestricted movement up or down and then a hard stop, so that could certainly add to it.

    I did measure out my driveline angles, and the transfer case output and rear differential input are 1° off from parallel - the differential is 1° "nose down". The 2 sections of the drive shaft are within 0.5° of each other.

    So I figure I'll replace the rear U-joint first - shouldn't be too difficult - using a Spicer 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit from Rock Auto. For the carrier bearing I'm debating between the IEDLS and a Dana Spicer replacement: Spicer 5002334 Center Bearing.
     
  20. Nov 17, 2016 at 8:18 PM
    #1220
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Your vibrations origination comes solely from the CB. If you can move it at least 1/4 with your bare hands imagine what it is doing there under a load.

    Now, while you are in there it woul definitely be wise to get some new U joints that way the entire life of the DS's is reset back to zero. You'll be a happy camper guaranteed after everything is said and done.
     
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