E-Locker Dash Light Wiring Question

Hey TW,

I'm balls deep into swapping a TRD rear axle into my non-TRD 2002 3.4L 4X4. I picked up low range offroad's wiring harness to save time as I needed to have the locker up and running as soon as the axle is installed, and got a good enough deal on the axle to splurge a little. I ran the harness today and got everything hooked up, but the Toyota nerd in me came out hard and I was trying to figure out how to illuminate the rr diff lock light on the instrument cluster. I know its there, I know these trucks were semi-wired for e-locker gear in the cab, so I spent the day searching the shit out of every swap thread I could find. The only thing I came up with is that there is a "blue/yellow" wire behind the kick panel drivers side that controls that dash light. Great, so I just tap into that with the correct wire from the harness and I should have a dash light on. But for the life of me, I cant find a "blue/yellow" wire anywhere behind the kick plate. Has anyone got this light to work and did so tapping a wire that wasn't that color? I really don't want to rip the dash apart to trace it, and I wasn't feeling patient enough to sherlock the FSM wiring diagrams... so Im hoping someone has had this issue and can save me some headache

 

Sorry I'm no help but wondering how the TRD axle swap went? For the first gens, can you take any first gen TRD axle or are there ranges?

 

I believe so. The most important thing is gearing, making sure whats in the donor matches whats in your front diff. the rest can be annoying, like the e brake configuration could be different, etc. The most annoying part for me was finding out that even though the axles are all kinda the same, bearings/seals/bolts can all be different part numbers in Toyotas book. For instance, I replaced the wheel bearings and seals and had my vin # for the 2002 plugged in. I figured as long as I went with the "locker" version of parts, I'd be in the clear. Not so. Had a hell of a time getting the bearing to seat until I realized that it had a lip on it that wasn't on the old one that came out. Wrong part number for that axle. So I tracked the vin # down from the seller and plugged that in, finally had what I needed! The whole purpose of the swap for me was finding that my axle was so rusted that gear oil was weeping out of the weld seams But, because I've spent too much time on TW, I figured I might as well Lock the 'ol gal! Hopefully will be able to finish it up today

 

factory locker switch plug, no blue/yellow wire coming from it. Wire bundle under drivers seat that runs to kick panel, no blue/yellow wire view of kick panel area, no blue/yellow wire and the little fucker I'm on the hunt for (or maybe not)..cut from the old factory harness that was busted

 

Hey did you figure it out?

 

did you ever come across a wiring diagram for the e-locker itself? having issues with mine and need to see if motor is getting power.

 

Well, sorta. I took apart the dash to get the instrument cluster out, which rumor had it... the blue/yellow wire would be hiding. It was. I spliced into that wire, shrink wrapped it back up and voila, RR Diff light comes on when the locker button is pushed. The problem remains that the light comes back on when the truck is shut off...its such low draw that I don't really worry about it being on all night, plus it kinda looks like a fancy anti-theft device But I have more work to make it work as it should. I think the fact that the cluster gauge gets a constant negative (?) is throwing me, so somewhere along the lines I've got something hooked up where it shouldn't be, but its not causing any harm besides the light on. the actual locker motor is not constantly trying to work while its off.

I have the FSM downloaded, which has diagrams for freakin everything, if you can wade through it. I think its still possible to download, which I would recommend you do. Was the locker factory to your rig? If not, and I guess even if it is, unplug and spray electronics cleaner on the contacts and make sure nothing is bent/loose. Mine stayed locked the first couple times I used it and I thought I was screwed. Cleaned the contacts and plugged everything back in snug, and sure enough it worked fine. You will hear audible clicks/motor whirr from the cab as you engage and disengage, that will be the dead give away whether your in business

 

yeah its a factory e-locker. my indicator switch was bad, opened it and it was all rusty and full of dust(and of course they don't make it to where you can open it and clean it and reuse it, its made to where if you open it, its not reusable)so i replaced it. the motor itself doesn't turn when the button is pushed. so thats a problem. my father was able to find a wiring diagram from a FSM. for the past week I've been truck-less (replacing pinion bearings and races) so i was anxious to be done with it. so i will try cleaning electrical plugs and see if that works.
it worked fine until it locked in and wouldn't unlock.. lol!
is your locker the splined collar or the smaller collar with the teeth? @WinSlow939

 

I have no idea what collar I have...

 

exactly

 

Why is the collar arrangement of the e locker of concern? I've never heard this come up...but feel free to school me @Watson662

 

forgive me, I'm new to tacoma world, the "exactly" was to the quote by napoleon. i see now what you actually said. but it isn't important just was curious. didnt realize there was more than one kind.

 

Ah, gotcha!! No worries @Watson662 .. if your e locker worked before...and now doesn't because you replaced a faulty and rusted switch... check to make sure you hooked it up right, or that its fully snapped in? Sometimes if the locker hasn't been engaged in quite awhile, the motor can get crusty and not want to work... this link might help if you find it is a problem with the motor.

 

yeah i read up on that post. a week and a half ago, i used my rear locker and when i was done with it, it wouldn't unlock. i was driving with a spool for a few days. makes me thing motor issue. the switch itself shouldn't keep it from working. but will double check and clean plugs and connectors.
thanks

 

Idk if this helps either of you. I swapped an e locker axle in and have factory button and e locker 4wd ecu, but my light doesn't work in the dash. I know the bulb is there because I've gotten it to light before. Trying to figure this out any help appreciated!

 

I was wondering how you wired this light with the lock detection switch? Can you just send power on the blue/yellow wire and the cluster has a ground built, or do you need to tap into 2 wires at the cluster?

 

I just put an elocker axle in my 99 and I followed these two wiring diagrams. One is from someone with a 4runner adding the axle to a non TRD vehicle, and the other is the factory wiring.

I used the 4runner diagram to get a better understanding of where the wires go. The colors are different, but the pins are the same. They decided to ground the speed sensor and 4wd switch, disabling the safeties of the system.

Also, here is a picture of the connector that lights the diff lock light in the dash. You can see the empty space between the purple and black-yellow wires near the center of the connector. This is the connector at the left side of the cluster. This just needs to be wire tapped to the blue-yellow wire that comes from the rear of the truck. If you look at the 4runner diagram you will see this.

 

Hey guys
Sorry to jack an older thread but I am into a Trd e-locker swap too. 2003 SR5 getting upgraded with a factory locker.
Thru trial and error I found that the mostly blue with yellow strip wire that runs the RR DIFF LOCK cluster light is ground switched. The circuit board is powered on by the key and the various lamps are switched on with a path to ground.
I was at first thrown for a loop by sending power to the blue-yellow stripe wire which caused the door chime to hyper ding and various lights to flash.

I want to give a quick thanks to Ken aka “Zuk” @ gearinstalls.com for building my front 7.5 clamshell with a Eaton Truetrac limited slip/solid pinion spacer plus rebuilding the TRD e-locker 3rd I found on eBay.

http://www.gearinstalls.com/Rip03TacoClamCryo.htm

When I figure out how to tie it to my low range off road harness I will update.

 

Update

I wired the blue yellow wire to pin 7 in the Low Range wiring loom. Diff Lock light in dash cluster works when locker is engaged.

Party on Garth.

Tags RR DIFF LOCK
Elocker E-LOCKER LOCKER LIGHT DASH CLUSTER SWITCH WIRE WIRING

 

More updates:

Others mentioned a slight glow in the light with key and system off. I don’t know where the feedback is from, mine glowed a bit with the key off. I removed the oem Diff Lock bulb in the rear of the cluster. I replaced by installing an LED ”neo wedge” I had from a previous project on the dash in the vent Ac fan controls ( they are used in this era Toyota’s ) Since an led is a diode it must be orientated with the polarity correct. The feedback path from the detent switch in the locker motor was terminated ( pin 7 is the switched ground for the oem dash light).
Also don’t panic if the light on the dash or switch don’t immediately light up when engaged. I have found that some slow forward or reverse movement is required for the splines in the axle to be fully coupled. This has taken me as long as 30 seconds rocking back and forth.