Heated seat wiring help

This is how I would wire it up. I think the diagram will answer your question above. Good luck with the wiring.

 

ok thanks a million, its making sense to me now. When I get the add a fuse though I put a 2 amp in? and then the same 15 that was already in the cig lighter right?

 

ok so after taking it apart they had it hooked up way different, weird.
30 is going to the two heating pads
85 has all 3 grounds
86 just has a small wire that hooks right to 87
87 goes to the switch
The swtich also has a yellow wire that goes from it to the heating pads, a white that goes to 87, a ground, and the switch owns the red wire that is the main power i was going to put to the battery
Also the relay has a centre spot that looks like another ground. Not sure why
Here is a picture. Top left is the pads wire, top right is the power and ground wire, bottom right is the switch

 

Also yes those are doggie pajamas....

 

Exactly. Just be sure to load the new and original fuse in the correct location (see one of my earlier posts).

 

If 30 is going to the pads and 87 to the switch then all the current (amps) to the heater pads is going through the switch. At this point I don't have much faith in how the harness was wired.

 

I think I'm going to completely re do it like you guys said. All the parts are here I justneed to get a crimper and tools and parts and do it. Never used one before but it can't be too hard. Then I'll murdered it with electrical tape

 

Heat shrink is cheap and can be bought off the shelf in most auto stores. just have to remember to put it on before you make your connection then slide it down over the connection and shrink it up.

 

Wire loom will cost you a bit more than electrical tape but protects the wire harness better and won't make a sticky mess. As mentioned above heat shrink tubing is recommended to insulate any exposed wiring connections. I'd go with adhesive lined heat shrink since it has a better chance of keeping moisture out compared to the non-adhesive heat shrink. The drawback is the adhesive tubing is less flexible.

 

Those wire crimps can be removed from the socket with a tiny screwdriver. After you remove them, fix the lock tab and insert into the proper slot.

 

Im trying but I feel like im going to break it lol

 

Looking at the connector where the relay plugs in, there is usually a notch or space to slide a screwdriver, or even a flat toothpick in along the flat side of the crimp connector. Push the wire into the connector as you're sliding the unlocking device in from the other side. Then you can pull the wire out.

 

@maxpower29 Were you able to complete this? I'm looking at doing the same thing this coming week when my Clazzio covers arrive. I got the same heater kit you have and thought I'd add that my paperwork that came with it says each kit (seat) draws 5.03 amps on the high setting. Knowing this, you should be able to splice both seats into the cig lighter circuit, right? As long as you're not using both seats on high AND the cig lighter?

 

I was thinking of running one seat to cig and other to ignition or power window circuit. Thoughts

 

I think thats not a good idea. Best to run a new circuit from the fuse panel or off the battery and use a relay off the ignition power to switch the load.

 

What he said...

 

That would add mounting flexibility. i bought the relay earlier, at least the heaters would have dedicated power and its a short run to the battery

 

I didnt start yet, probably going to start it on my Yaris first and see how it works. I need to still get the stuff to run the wires though like crimpers, more wire, butt splices or whatever they are called

 

When buying wire what should I buy just the same size stuff? I want to make sure I dont blow the truck up with making a mistake

 

The wire you select must be able to handle a greater current (amps) than what the fuse protecting the wire is rated for (this is so the wire doesn't become the fuse or the reason your truck is burnt to a crisp due to electrical overload). You also need to account for the length of the wire run when selecting the size/diameter. Find an AWG specification on Google or do a search in this forum. I have seen the chart in a few posts.