I made a thing for switches because the thing I wanted didn't exist.

Thank you gang. I thought I read it was screwed in but I guess I was wrong.

 

The cubby is in fact screwed to the small panel, but you only need to remove the small panel to get the job done, not the entire lower dash.

 

@forty2 do you know if I could wire my LED truck bed lights (8 LED pads) into my factory bed light switch?

If so, I'm assuming I wouldn't have to run any additional ground or power wires. Also if so, which color do you think I should splice my LEDs into? Anyone know which color runs to what?

Side note: The additional black wire in the second picture is for a funny horn I had installed and is not stock.

 

I don't know what each individual wire is, but it wouldn't be too hard to figure out with just a test light. Find ground by testing each wire to ground, then locate the hot by testing continuity across the switch. The bigger issue is whether the additional demand on the switch and wire will be an issue. LEDs don't draw much, but for me, I think I'd prefer to run through a relay if I was tapping switch power.

 

Would it be too much to ask for you to draw me a wiring diagram? I have my component wires run, but not yet attached to anything. I need to consider a power source. I have an "add a circuit" that connects to my fuse box which came with my lights, and I would prefer to use it over the direct connection to the battery.

 

I'm not 100% sure what you're asking me to diagram but here's my take. You initially asked about tapping the bed light switch to power your lights. I don't know the specs for your lights but I don't think direct power from there is a good idea, but through a relay it might be okay. If you go this route you run the lighting power wire back to a relay that is wired directly to the battery through an appropriate fuse. The switch input into the relay would be tapped into the power coming off of the existing bed switch, which ever wire that happens to be. I've stolen this image from the internet to help explain:



In the proposed application you would be adding the relay and fuse and the "Lighted Rocker Switch" is the existing switch you'll be tapping into.

 

Pretty sure White with black stripe is ground. Green is 12v+, Tan is also 12v+ (like 12v-1 and 12v-2). But like said above, double check with a meter to be sure.

 

Tie into the #5 (violet) with negative of the LED strip.

 

.

 

Forty2 -

Thanks very much for sharing your time and your talent in bringing these useful little gems to the masses, and giving purpose to that "hole" Toyota left in the dash. Awesome idea and execution! I just ordered mine.

---(Nicely maintained thread, too.)

Carry on...

 

I am going to try this tonight. I already ran the lights yesterday and pulled the wires under the body and through the door sill panel. I bought the lights from LEDglow.com and they offer really awesome install videos. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbpmmI20uiA&t=191s). The lights come with a switch, but I knew that someone here would know how to tap into the existing switch. Thanks so much! I will post pictures of the install when I'm done.

Question though: Do you think I should still use a relay?

 

Yes. If not for the power draw, then at least for the protection to your switches and circuitry.

 

Not for 3 amps.

 

http://www.otrattw.net/CONTURA-V-TACOMA-BUMPER-LIGHT-BAR-ROCKER-ONLY-VVPZC42-5TT.html

Anyone know if a rocker switch like this one will fit in the switch plate?

 

@forty2 has said that they won't because of the bezel surrounding the cubby. I'm still trying to figure out if I can use one in the blank where the MTs have the clutch start cancel button though.

 

Damn. Rocker switches are so much more satisfying to turn on.

 

Agreed, but the Carling style switches are just too big to work in that spot without altering the surrounding panel, unless you want only one switch turned sideways. I prefer the Carling switches myself, but the final fit is more important to me still.

 

I made another thing:



This is pretty specific to a small number of users, but this a replacement button fill plate for the shorter fatter Toyota switches. I'm planning on using it in the empty switch slot above the Qi charger. It is a simple microphone holder and it's sized for the MH-48 mic from my FTM-400. I have no idea if mic hangers are universal so if I make this available use will be completely at your own risk. I'm going to go out and install it tonight or tomorrow to check that the mic will actually stay like it should and that the hanger doesn't come loose or bounce out.

 

Ordered a 3 switch panel, Thanks @forty2. If You ever decide to do that complete piece that this attaches to I would be interested. You could probably get many of the Carling style switches on it plus the original factory switches.

 

Any chance there's a blackfriday code for these panels? On a side note, someone needs to take my credit card away. I've purchased the below items all in the last couple hours thanks to these deals.

Demello Hybrid Sliders
RCI Front & Tranny Skids
Bunch of recovery gear from 4WD.com
APEX/CaliRaised light bar/mount combo