Need Help, Bump Steer

I agree, I don't think it is helping you at all.

 

I know what you mean. The ome springs are stiff. I'm just saying that the bump steer has been an issue since I had the springs set at the lowest mark. I'll have a steel bumper on soon so maybe that will help

 

Same height setting on both shocks, bump steer on both shocks. See what I'm getting at.

 

I've always thought bump steer came from abnormal camber, while caster causes lightness or heaviness in steering/handling.

 

No the 6112s were on the lowest setting possible. I might try the 5100s on the lowest but that will drop my front about an inch from where it is now.

 

Bump-steer is typically caused by changes in toe as the suspension compresses. As the suspension compresses the relation of the control arms to the knuckles causes undesired movement.
What you are talking about is the traditional bump steer behavior is exacerbated by the camber issue.

 

So it is definitely from having 1.9 positive camber? I've tried to tell the shop I didn't want any camber

 

I couldn't say for sure without seeing the rest of the alignment specs, but I imagine it is not helping any.

 

Caster is 3.5 camber and toe are both set at 1.9 I believe.

 

You normally have to adjust the outer tie rod end height, with respect to the spindle mount, to correct bump steer problems. Raising or lower a vehicle always presents this problem. Most people selling these kits leave this part out. Not good for sales.

 

The only way that I know of leveling the tie rods out would be a diff drop but that eliminates the point of the lift in my opinion and I wouldn't be able to run skids

 

I have never seen where static positive caster is a good thing.

 

If you have 1.9° Camber and 1.9° Toe your alignment is a mess.

You should be running a minor negative camber and a minor toe in or 0 toe.

 

Leveling the tie rods isn't the answer, though many say this. The real answer is keeping the arcs of the control arms, and the tie rods, working together. Really, a bumpsteer gauge is usually needed. I normally set for just a smidgen of toe out on bump, with a midget of static toe in. Every case is different. I don't think you need to drop your diff.

 

Agreed, leveling is only required if you are getting binding on the joints.

 

Got it. Thanks guys. I'll take it to another alignment shop and see if they can fix it.

 

The info in this thread has been pretty wicked.

 

Well I never said anything about caster so not sure why you quoted me

 

Can you explain this a little more in depth please?

I leveled my SR with the following:
Front- TRD OR Take off Coils and shocks, toytec 1/4" spacer
Rear- TRD OR Take off shocks and the stock SR leafs, no spacers.

This setup gained me roughly 1.5" up front and a very small bump in the rear, about 1/4". Tire diameter is still stock.

I noticed some bump steer so I got it aligned, turned out I had some toe-out. Bump steer went way down after alignment but I can still feel it a bit.
My caster is at 1.6 and 1.7 degrees L/R, and SAI is 11.2 and 11.3 degrees L/R which is on the low end of spec. So, since I lifted I would need to lower SAI while adding caster?

I feel like I'm missing the last puzzle piece here.

 

Well, still have it. 0 toe, 0 camber one side, and .3 on the other. My tires still look like they have camber but it could just be me. Maybe it's just because the suspension is still new and pretty stiff?