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Suspension/tire guru input needed

Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by WyattInIdaho, Nov 22, 2016.

  1. Nov 22, 2016 at 5:20 PM
    #1
    WyattInIdaho

    WyattInIdaho [OP] Member

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    I am in the process of getting new wheels & tires for my 2014 double cab TRD. I ended up settling on some 16x7.5" TRD FJ wheels (PTR20-35080) after weeks of looking around.

    Questions for gurus:

    1. With a 3" OME lift kit, and 285/75/16 Toyo MTs, am I going to need new UCAs?
    2. If yes to #1, what brand of UCAs should I look into? I don't want to spend too much money but I don't want garbage either.
    3. Off-topic: is it possible/feasible to mount a Warn winch on the front of my truck without buying an expensive aftermarket bumper?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Nov 22, 2016 at 5:30 PM
    #2
    DustStorm4x4

    DustStorm4x4 BBC 2020

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    1. UCA's are recommended with 2-2.5"+ of lift

    2. The best reviews I've seen on UCAs are Total Chaos, but those are pretty expensive. I've heard good from LR and Icon UCAs too.

    3. Yes.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/252198...7290-0%26rvr_id%3D1127934024880&ul_noapp=true
     
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    #2
  3. Nov 22, 2016 at 6:07 PM
    #3
    WyattInIdaho

    WyattInIdaho [OP] Member

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  4. Nov 22, 2016 at 6:08 PM
    #4
    DustStorm4x4

    DustStorm4x4 BBC 2020

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    You're welcome. :) Welcome to TW.
     
  5. Nov 22, 2016 at 7:32 PM
    #5
    gordi

    gordi Only had a wheel fall off once

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    Fox 2.5 extended travel, dakars, rear 5125 255/80/17 cooper maxx ST
    Where at in Idaho?
     
  6. Dec 10, 2016 at 3:37 PM
    #6
    WyattInIdaho

    WyattInIdaho [OP] Member

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    Boise--Warm Springs to be exact. Are you here as well?
     
  7. Dec 10, 2016 at 3:42 PM
    #7
    WyattInIdaho

    WyattInIdaho [OP] Member

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    Thanks for all the help, guys. I wouldn't have been able to pull off this (pretty sweet IMO) set of mods without this forum.

    Here's the fruits of everyone's labor:

    - OME suspension lift kit
    - 16x7.5 TRD wheels
    - 285/75/16 Toyo MTs
    - Lots of black Aervoe for the brush guard and emblem

    Had to remove the front mud flaps, but other than that, no rubbing whatsoever even at full lock. Rides great, too. Note: I did not apparently need upper control arms (caveat: I have not taken it off-road yet, and I suspect the more articulation, the more issues I may have). You can also see the UCAs clearly from the side of the vehicle now, and the stock ones leave something to be desired for sure.

    IMG_0920.jpg
     
  8. Dec 10, 2016 at 3:46 PM
    #8
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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  9. Dec 10, 2016 at 3:47 PM
    #9
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    Also the primary need of new UCAs is to get your truck into alignment If you're in alignment with stock UCAs, you're good!
     
  10. Dec 10, 2016 at 3:47 PM
    #10
    WyattInIdaho

    WyattInIdaho [OP] Member

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  11. Dec 10, 2016 at 3:51 PM
    #11
    WyattInIdaho

    WyattInIdaho [OP] Member

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    It does pull slightly to the right, and the front wheels look toed-in to the point that I'm pretty sure they're going to wear unevenly. If I can't get the right pull fixed, I'll put in for some aftermarket UCAs...
     
  12. Feb 9, 2017 at 9:20 AM
    #12
    WyattInIdaho

    WyattInIdaho [OP] Member

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    Well, after a thousand miles or so, I started hearing a squeaking noise when going over speed bumps, so I took it back to Schwab's. They said the UCA was rubbing on the strut, so they adjusted it.

    Now I don't have that noise issue, but I am getting gnarly rubbing when turning anywhere near full lock.

    Will different UCAs solve this, or is there a better/faster/cheaper solution to the rubbing problem?

    Thanks in advance,
    Wyatt
     
  13. Feb 9, 2017 at 10:00 AM
    #13
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    Pretty much if you're rubbing, you either need to get smaller tires or chop out whatever is in the way of rubbing. Here's he steps I would do (in order) to reduce rubbing.

    -remove front mud flaps and mini front mud flaps
    -cut plastic out of the way that's rubbing
    -do a CMC
    -Hammer the pinch weld

    After all that, you shouldn't rub anymore except a little when you're at full stuff.
     
  14. Feb 9, 2017 at 12:19 PM
    #14
    WyattInIdaho

    WyattInIdaho [OP] Member

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    I appreciate that. Not to sound too much like a noob, but what's a CMC and what's the pinch weld?

     
  15. Feb 9, 2017 at 2:09 PM
    #15
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    No problem at all! Asking questions is how we all learn. Two years ago when I joined I didn't know a damn thing. A CMC is a cab mount chop. You basically cut some metal back and weld some new metal in it's place. It's really not as bad as you might think and if done properly (i.e. grind down the welds nice and clean) no one will ever know.

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/b-a-m-f-cmc-plates-cab-mount-chop.192527/

    The pinch weld is a weld that's behind the plastic of your wheel well. It's less of an issue with just driving around, but once you really stuff your tire in there, it can rub. It's really easy, and just requires a BFH. I hammered mine outboard, and not all the way flat. Just enough to get it out of the way. Then you take a heat gun and mold the plastic flat again.

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...lat-with-a-sledge-hammer-lets-discuss.425850/
     
    DustStorm4x4 likes this.

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