Installed my new VLED Switchbacks in my 2016!

i think you figured out what you were looking for. the tritons have a separate controller that has a way to tap into the running lights. it's not all contained in the bulb like other switchbacks. i tried to figure out if it would be simple enough to change out a pigtail or tie into some unused plug in the harness but i couldn't find one.

 

Someone can correct me, but the box on the vled is just the load resistor to prevent hyper flash. If you were to buy this and try and use it for a TRD, it wouldnt be plug and play because youd have to splice into the running light which is NOT on the same bulb as the turn signal, unlike the SR which uses a dual filament type plug/bulb (7443).

The TRDs use a singal filaments bulb/plug (7440) for the turn signals.

For the SR all you need to do to run a switchback led for turn signals/running light is a capable led bulb and a resistor. Plug it in and youre good to go.

For the TRD you need the bulb and resistor plus you need to splice into the running light since they are seporate.

 

it's not quite plug and play because it does need that extra wire tapped to the running light positive. but the controller for the tritons is not the resistor. there's an additional box that is the resistor. there's a diagram on the site.

http://www.vleds.com/v3-kit-aa-7440.html

http://www.vleds.com/media/catalog/...fb58b1/v/3/v3_gen_2.5_a_single_filament_2.jpg

 

Ok I did this in mine. On the vled there are three wires. Ground, high power and low power (blue). On the OR and Sport there's the led drl. It has three wires. Ground, high power and low power. When the truck is on it sends high power to the drl. When you switch the parking lights on it still sends power to the high on the drl. When you turn your headlights on they dim because there is low power being sent to the drl. So there are a few different options but what I did was splice into both the low and high power on the drl. I installed diodes inline so there would be no reverse power sent back to the drl. Both the low and high were tapped into the blue wire (low power) on the vled. So the vled had low power amber on no matter what. When you turn your headlights on the amber light doesn't change intensity until you turn the signals on.

 

Should I get the 7440 or 7443 for a 2016

 

7443 base!

 

Even though it only uses a 7440

 

Do they get as hot as they say when in use? If so where'd you end up mounting the resistors?

 

How'd you avoid the hyperflash?

 

Hey moe2o4 why are those so frickin bright I have switchback and they don t look half as bright

 

Do you have the Tritons?

 

I actually don t remember the name brand but they definitely are not as bright as those

 

I know they didn t cost 120 a pair

 

Well there's your problem.
Get the VLEDS

 

Do have them in your truck? If so are they as bright as they look in his video

 

Yes I do.(well did)
They are hands down the brightest PNP bulbs I have tested. The V3(as shown in this thread) has been discontinued, and is being replaced by the V6.. which will come out at the end of this month.
Their design Immiates the natural light pattern emitted by a conventional halogen bulb, which is why they are so efficient in reflector based housings.
I sound like a salesman...

 

Ok thanks it looks like Santa will have them on his list only if I stay being good and don t get any more time outs you know what I mean.

 

And why don t you have them anymore

 

I'm waiting for the new V6

 

Are they going to run at 120 still and can you pre order them