Anyone else? Crank Shaft Position Sensor problem in the 2016 TRD Off Road

Thank you for the picture that helps allot. I am use to Nissan and Jeeps and they can be a night mare to disconnect.

 

Bought my Taco TRD OR 01/16 and have 8 400 km on it. No issues.

 

The problem with releasing the connector is that the the part you are pushing on doesn't really move. It's not like you push on it, it moves and then stops so you know you pushed enough. Instead, you have to push really hard in just the right spot but there is no feedback to let you know you are doing it right and of course you can't see what you are doing.

It's probably worth finding a similar connector under the hood in an accessible spot and practicing on it just to get the feel. Or buy a spare connector for $5 when you buy your new sensor and practice on it.

 

LOL, good for you. Go get a cookie. Noticed you seem to be one of those guys that goes into problem threads to take a dump with "my truck is perfect" comments. Believe it or not, there is some useful info in this thread. Ironically, none of it is related to your comment.

 

I replaced my sensor a couple of months ago with an updated one. I would have zero interest in doing this on the side of the road with a hot engine.

 

I like cookies. What can I say my truck works fine.

 

Well, I'm always happy when someone reports no problems with their truck - it shows me that all trucks are not having the issue my truck has/had.

Get a cookie? You ragging on a guy who reports his truck is running well?

 

Start to finish - how long did this take?

Did you have to jack your truck?

Exactly what tools did you use?

Thanks.

 

I pulled mine to check it a few weeks ago. Here's my answer:

1. 30 minutes if you are slow. 20 minutes if you are reasonable. Probably 10 minutes if you've done it before. 5 minutes if the truck was on a lift and you'd practiced.

2. You do not need to jack the truck. It might help make access easier (as would removing the tire), but certainly not required.

3. Tools required are 10mm socket and a few extensions, something to pop the pin(s) on the wheel well liner.

This would not be pleasant (impossible?) if the engine was hot.

The biggest challenges are getting the connector off (was not an issue for me, maybe I got lucky) and the somewhat awkward access.

I pulled mine to see if I had the updated part. I do not. I bought one and carry it as a spare. I was hoping that Toyota would come out with a recall or other action to remedy the problem, or at least tell us the range of VINs affected. Hearing nothing, I'll probably preemptively replace it in the next few weeks.

 

Thanks halfway.

 

When I replaced mine the connector was a bit of a challenge to release. To avoid messing it up, I went ahead and removed the sensor and then was better able to remove the connector from it.

 

Brilliant.

 

Okay - truck is back from the service department -

Hats off to my service department. They stuck with the project until it was completed.

My dealer changed my CPI and it seemed to solve the problem. I've been driving my truck w/o a problem and my shifting seems to be much smoother.

The dealer returned my truck all shined up and clean. During the repair work I was loaned a 2017 Taco and it was also a nice to test drive (for 1500 miles) a new truck.

I'm not sure of the issues with the CPI and I sure hope mine doesn't break again but I certainly appreciate the help and advice I received on this post. Thanks.

 

Any consensus on what month the new sensors were implemented? Mine was built in February, so I drive with this issue in the back of my mind. I may buy one to keep on hand like some of you are doing.

 

Every airplane engine leaks oil haha, like a lot the smaller engines take about 5 gallons and are always being topped off.
Shit man Delta flys MD-88 and if you don't find oil on the ground under the engine you better call MTC to fill it back up

 

I just had my 2016 Tacoma stall out on me on the highway. It had just rolled over 10,000 miles. I was able to creep over to the shoulder. After a few mins of trying to search for my insurance companies number I decided to try to start it up again. Luckily it did. I thought i had bad gas or something too. But as I was about to exit the underwater tunnel, it started to sputter and I kept mashing the gas. After I exited the tunnel, the truck seemed to go into limp mode and I drove to the dealership on the right shoulder. I wasn't able to go more than 40 mph. The dealer ended up replacing the CPS after having it for a day. I picked it up this morning and it feels sluggish. It doesn't seem to have the power that it did before and shifts or doesn't shift at weird points. Idk if it is because I haven't driven it in a couple days but the RPMs stayed at like 1100-1200 while in park. I waited a couple of mins after I started it up. I thought it would eventually drop to under 1000 rpm. Correct me if Im wrong. Anyone else notice this? Thanks.

 

If you drove it for an extended period of time with the CKPS faulted, your catalyst may have melted down due to over-fueling. Have them check the exhaust system for excessive back pressure and/or another code will set for an inefficient catalytic converter.

 

Yep, my catalyst had to be changed.

 

Hi Port9890,
Any follow-up? Toyota is replacing the cam shaft replaced after the second CSPS warning light/code.

 

Well, I've got about 2000 miles on my replacement CPS and I've had no new problems. I've towed and launched my boat with no issues. Got to give a shout out to my Dealer's head service guy. He followed up on my problems and stayed on top of them until it was resolved.