New Style Balljoint Upper Control Arms

Ok here are the parts. A 1-3/4 long zerk would work better if they have them. Must be 1/4 x28 to fit moog (short original zerk shown for comparison) Came in packs of five for less than $10. Need thin ss washer with 5/16 hole and a 5/16 ID o Ring to seal at top of cap. I used the stepped bit to flare the underside of the cap. You need some wiggle room to align with the threaded hole in the moog as it isn't perfectly plumb/square. $3 per Iva and about 20 mins a piece
Spare mood ready to roll

 

@Fishtaco13, looks great, absolutely stealing this idea. LMK next time you're over west in FoCo or Loveland, I'll have to buy you a beer for the intellectual property theft.

 

Looks like 1-5/8" is the longest they have at Zerks Plus

http://zerksplus.com/1-4-28-x-1-5-8-taper-straight-grease-zerk-nipple-fitting-5-pcs/

 

1-5/8 works. It is what I used. Just can't use gorilla wrench to tighten. Finger tight plus quarter turn and locktite. I work in foco so let me know if you need anything. I don't consider it property so feel free. Your pIcture looks like coyote ridge?

 

The photo is the top of Timber at Lory right before you start descending on Kimmons. Good eyes!

 

Reading what some of you posted here ...

1) I'm working with Energy Suspension to source a improved boot that will hold up better. Some of the boot issues I've seen from customers were from not greasing them on the initial install, they get pinched internally since they collapse easily without enough grease in them.

2) When installing the BJ caps, you need to burp the air that gets trapped between the cap and ball-joint. We supply fishing line to do that. Also for more serious off-roaders and wet conditions we recommend using a small amount of clear silicon sealant on the cap to seal it up and help with some adhesion. It's still easily removed.

Anything else let me know ....

- Scott @ Camburg

 

How would one go about "burping the air" with fishing line? These UCA's are still at the top of my list. Durability and not enough caster are reasons for slight apprehension, however.

 

6] Use the supplied 30# fishing line and insert 2”of it into the upper arm cup. This will be used to release the trapped air as the cap is pressed on.

7] Position and center the cover over the ball-joint cup with the Camburg logo in your desired position.

8] Cover the cap with a rag to protect the finish and use a rubber mallet to tap the cover in. Make sure to apply even pressure so that it presses in straight. If it is not pressing in, it might be mis-aligned or too tight of a fit were you will need to hone the ID of the cup slightly.

9] When the cap is fully seated and you hear the air escape, pull the fishing line out and make sure the cap is tight to the cup.Twist the cap a few degrees to the right and left to help seat the cap and o-ring.

Here's the complete step by step instructions ...
https://camburg.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/BJ_cvr_install.pdf

 

Sweet! Thanks for the fast response. New coilovers arriving soon. I'm not really looking for lift, but if I'm not satisfied with the performance of the OEM UCA and Icon 2.5" coilovers I will be ordering Camburg ball joint UCA's most likely. I just don't see how a uni ball would benefit me personally. I certainly do not want squeaky suspension!

 

Hi everyone, installed the new style camburgs and wanted to know if there is any adjustment on the control arms itself for camber/castor or does all the adjustments need to be done on the lower control arm? Also i noticed grease exiting the bottom of the moog ball joint, i assume that is the grease relief valve?

 

This is what it looks like

 

Yup completely normal I have to wipe them once in a while

 

Thanks guys, I just need to fix my alignment, any advice I should give the alignment guys? last place i went they got my camber to 0 but the castor dropped to 0.5, I want to increase my castor and keep my camber at 0. I have a 2 inch lift fox shocks and 32" tires

 

I want these arms as well. I just hope there's "enough" caster built in. I will be interested to see what numbers you end up with.

 

If you want to be able to get as close the 3.0 caster on a 3 inch lift these won't do it. Better off getting the JBA or Light Racing Arms. Let's just say after I bought these and put them on Camburg changed their website to state that these are made for up to a 2.5 inches of lift. Not a 3 inch. If I could do it again it wouldn't be these.

 

I have followed your plight closely. It really sucks because the Camburg option is the only attractive bj uca of the three. I am considering JBA but they will HAVE to be repainted before they go on my truck. I still may get Camburg since I doubt I have 3" of lift with Icon coilovers. I really dont want to limit myself though.

 

Buy me some JBA Standard High Caster Arms and I'll trade ya

 

I'd suggest adding some Camber. I'm running -.9 (top of the tire is in board of the bottom), and am very much happier with overall handling.

Castor, the more the better, but 1 degree is enough, if you like responsive stearing.

 

I found it helped with wander and added stability/grip when cornering.