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Any woodworkers?

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by Forster46, Mar 31, 2013.

  1. Nov 30, 2016 at 9:41 AM
    #661
    Toyko Joe

    Toyko Joe Here for the pictures

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    Nice view though!
     
  2. Nov 30, 2016 at 9:42 AM
    #662
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    So you're installing new windows?
     
  3. Nov 30, 2016 at 9:49 AM
    #663
    scocar

    scocar hypotenoper

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    Oh dude that blows more than I envisioned.
     
    Nickel likes this.
  4. Nov 30, 2016 at 9:51 AM
    #664
    stairgod

    stairgod NOOB

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    Building a few posts for a remodel project.

    Note: Not my shop or my clamps, so don't bust my balls. I had tobuse what was on hand.

    20161130_124834.jpg
     
    Nickel likes this.
  5. Nov 30, 2016 at 9:51 AM
    #665
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    I've been here for over a week already
     
  6. Nov 30, 2016 at 9:56 AM
    #666
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    Those are the new ones , I'm just starting to re-trim out the interior now that I have the outside all buttoned up
     
  7. Nov 30, 2016 at 10:04 AM
    #667
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    Ah, gotcha. Is there an obvious design change between the new and old with regards to the leaking?
     
  8. Nov 30, 2016 at 10:10 AM
    #668
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    The mullion that divides the upper and lower glazed units was constructed differently , previously there was a seperate sash for each glazed unit that was split by a crossing mullion that was butt joined into the side jambs , the butt joint was suceptable to seasonal shrinkage / movement and the water collecting on the upper glazed unit found a path around the end of the crossing mullion when combined with wind and would then get behind the lower sash unit

    As you can probably tell from the pic , there's a pretty extreme exposure here as far as wind driven rain goes , his house is perched up on a cliff that is pretty open to wind
     
  9. Nov 30, 2016 at 11:57 AM
    #669
    floodedkiwi

    floodedkiwi Well-Known Member

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    I am not sure what or why you are doing here. Any further info for a non skilled person, here?
     
  10. Nov 30, 2016 at 12:04 PM
    #670
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    He is posting pictures in live right now of the project...after he finishes his lunch.
     
  11. Nov 30, 2016 at 12:06 PM
    #671
    floodedkiwi

    floodedkiwi Well-Known Member

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    Lunch is the most important meal of the day after breakfast and mid morning snack time....
     
  12. Nov 30, 2016 at 12:07 PM
    #672
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    ...and second breakfast
     
  13. Nov 30, 2016 at 5:43 PM
    #673
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    I probably should have moved all this over to the Home Improvement thread but whatever too late now

    So first off I'm applying the nosings

    Scribe and fit the ends , this window is out of plane with the drywall , I'll use that to show what I was talking about with the V rebate tomorrow when the sides go on


    Nosings sitting on my little L supports that hold the nosing at the correct alignment while I mark and fit it to the liners and drywall , biscuit locations marked ( on painters tape on the pre-finished window sills , marked on the nosings that will get sanded off later )


    The nosing is to have a 1/4" reveal to the jambs which is carried throughout the head and side casings , to do that I want to offset cut my biscuit slots by the dimension of the reveal ( 1/4" )

    Here's a sample of what I'm talking about

    Strike your biscuit location like usual


    I milled a piece of plywood to match my reveal thickness ( 1/4" thick ) and made a little window slot so I can see the biscuit location marks


    Set your depth with the spacer in the mix , basically you don't want the reveal offset to force the biscuit to be cut too close to the top of the nosing or so deep it doesn't end up in the jamb / liner


    Cut the biscuit slots in the jamb WITHOUT the reveal spacer , cut the biscuits in the nosing WITH the spacer stacked onto the nosing

    Doing so offsets your two pieces exactly the dimension of the thickness of your reveal spacer for a consistent reveal


    To clamp the nosings in place I use a plywood block clamping system with screws and fender washers to draw the nosings tight to the window liners , the screw holes in the drywall are covered later by the apron trim

     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2016
  14. Dec 1, 2016 at 4:26 AM
    #674
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    So the spacer also cuts down on set up time. You only need to set the joiner up once.
     
  15. Dec 1, 2016 at 4:28 AM
    #675
    Street Taco

    Street Taco Consistently Inconsistent

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  16. Dec 1, 2016 at 7:37 AM
    #676
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    Yes and its more accurate when you're working on multiple windows / doors because it eliminates any set up errors
     
    Toyko Joe and 98tacoma27[QUOTED] like this.
  17. Dec 1, 2016 at 7:40 AM
    #677
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    Good to know. It's those little tricks that can make a daunting project that much easier.
     
    Toyko Joe likes this.
  18. Dec 1, 2016 at 6:56 PM
    #678
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    Installed the aprons this morning


    and just to finish off my point with the side casings , as you can see this window is proud of the drywall


    Putting a square , un-rebated piece in causes it to sit cockeyed on the nosings and the back of the trim contacts the jamb causing an open joint between the trim and jamb


    Putting the V rebated piece in solves the issue with the back contact and closes the joint between the side trim and jamb and if the window and drywall is not too far out of plane the reveal at the head casing and / or nosing may be acceptable .

    In this case they are too far out of plane and we need to take one more step

    ( note the casing to nosing reveal is not consistent )


    If we remove this portion of material I've marked in pencil we should get back into alignment

    This will vary from case to case and may also be a taper


    In this case I just ran the piece through the tablesaw on edge , removing the offending material , if it's a taper usually I use a block plane or combination of tablesaw and block plane


    Now it fits tight against the jamb and wall , and the reveal between the casing and the front of the nosing is consistent


    Add glue and nails

    Profit
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2016
  19. Dec 2, 2016 at 5:02 AM
    #679
    Noelie84

    Noelie84 What Could Possibly Go Wrong?

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    Noel
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    Beats the hell out of a bead of white caulk down the outer edge where it meets the drywall. :facepalm:

    I always hate when I see that in construction.
     
    wilcam47 and Nickel like this.
  20. Dec 2, 2016 at 5:46 AM
    #680
    Scott B.

    Scott B. Well-Known Member

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    Really? I though caulk fixed everything!

    j/k
     

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