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Light wiring question

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by blairrad, Nov 29, 2016.

  1. Nov 29, 2016 at 6:19 PM
    #1
    blairrad

    blairrad [OP] Yoter

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    I'm going be wiring up some lights with an add-a-fuse to the fuse box.
    What amp fuse will be best for two LED lights?

    edit: led, 27W, 30V
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2016
  2. Nov 29, 2016 at 7:55 PM
    #2
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    It's generally a good idea to run a relay when running that kind of wattage/voltage. Hell I have a relay for my CB. Relays 4 lyfe.
     
  3. Nov 29, 2016 at 8:06 PM
    #3
    blairrad

    blairrad [OP] Yoter

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    I am going to use a relay. But the lights still need power?
    (Grounded) lights to (grounded relay) with a (grounded) switch...then I still need power, so relay to add a fuse.

    Right?? So what kind of fuse should be in the add a fuse?
     
  4. Nov 29, 2016 at 8:14 PM
    #4
    gbollom

    gbollom Well-Known Member

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    What is people's obsession with relays on this site? With modern led efficiencies there is typically no need for such. This isn't the old days of incandescent halogen lighting with super high amperages. If you're wiring in a 27w LED or even a few of them on the same switch, there is likely no NEED for a relay. Use the proper AWG wire and a switch rated for the amperage of the circuit and you'll be fine. You'll want a fuse rated as close to the amperage of the circuit. I.e 27/12=2.25 a 2.5 or 3 amp fuse would be great
     
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  5. Nov 29, 2016 at 8:16 PM
    #5
    gbollom

    gbollom Well-Known Member

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    For 2.25 amps per light? Lol give me a break, running a relay on anything less than 10 amps is a complete waste provided the proper wire and switch is used
     
  6. Nov 29, 2016 at 8:19 PM
    #6
    blairrad

    blairrad [OP] Yoter

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    Thanks, gbollom.
     
  7. Nov 29, 2016 at 8:25 PM
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    gbollom

    gbollom Well-Known Member

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    I wired a 120w bar on my bumper, no relay, not even the slightest worry of an issue. I run 14awg wire (only spot I would even consider upgrading, 14awg is good for 10a <10') with a 10a fuse and a switch rated to 20A. No need for a relay in this setup.
     
  8. Nov 29, 2016 at 10:21 PM
    #8
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    Nevermind don't listen to me lol
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2016
  9. Nov 30, 2016 at 4:03 AM
    #9
    gbollom

    gbollom Well-Known Member

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    Uhhh, no.

    I think you're misunderstanding the purpose of fuses/breakers and relays. Fuses and breakers are absolutely a good idea unless you're cool with melting wire and possibly causing a fire. You'll notice your house has breakers (a resettable fuse), but doesn't have relays. Coincidence?
     
  10. Nov 30, 2016 at 4:09 AM
    #10
    doyouquaxu

    doyouquaxu Well-Known Member

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    What?

    Don't take advice from this guy
     
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  11. Nov 30, 2016 at 7:53 AM
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    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    Okay, maybe I worded it wrong.
     
  12. Nov 30, 2016 at 8:10 AM
    #12
    blairrad

    blairrad [OP] Yoter

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    So everyone has different opinions...
    What I was going to do was, (Grounded) lights to (grounded) switch, to the (grounded) relay, then relay to aaf.

    But I don't need the relay I guess, so just lights to fuse to power? I thought the relay was just a safety precaution.

    Also, which fuse box should I use, does it matter? Under the dash would be easier since I wouldn't have to go through the firewall, is that one good?
     
  13. Nov 30, 2016 at 8:24 AM
    #13
    gbollom

    gbollom Well-Known Member

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    How many 27w lights do you plan to attach?
     
  14. Nov 30, 2016 at 8:28 AM
    #14
    blairrad

    blairrad [OP] Yoter

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    2 right now.
     
  15. Nov 30, 2016 at 8:34 AM
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    gbollom

    gbollom Well-Known Member

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    Ok, so 4.5amps total then.

    If you're going to use a T-tap or something of this manner to get 12v+ source after the fuse block, then a relay could be used.

    I chose to add an external fuse block, and will/have wired all of my accessory lights through the external fuse block. I prefer to do this over tapping into the factory wiring. It's much easier to remove the extra stuff this way, prevents issues with factory harnesses etc.
     
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  16. Nov 30, 2016 at 8:43 AM
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    blairrad

    blairrad [OP] Yoter

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    Well, for now, will the stock under-dash fuse box be fine?
     
  17. Nov 30, 2016 at 9:05 AM
    #17
    gbollom

    gbollom Well-Known Member

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    I'm unsure if there is a place for a spare fuse in the factory fuse block or not. I'm not a fan of using t-taps for anything other than illumination signal for switches or gauges
     
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  18. Nov 30, 2016 at 9:43 AM
    #18
    gbollom

    gbollom Well-Known Member

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    Also, you can get an accessory fuse block for less than $20 on Amazon and probably your local automotive store also. If you intend to wire in very many accessories I would go this way. If you're just going to run the one circuit for the two lights I would just come directly off of the battery with the + and use an inline fuse. Tuck the wire a bit and take your time running it and it will hardly even be noticeable
     
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  19. Nov 30, 2016 at 9:58 AM
    #19
    blairrad

    blairrad [OP] Yoter

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    Less than $20? I just might have to do that then. How do I wire that up?
     
  20. Nov 30, 2016 at 10:08 AM
    #20
    gliderpilot

    gliderpilot Well-Known Member

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    As a retired Electronic/Electrical engineer I totally agree with gbollom. Inline fuse is sufficient. People tend to forget (or don't know) that the primary function of a fuse or circuit breaker is to protect the wiring, not the object at the end of the wire. Sounds like a 10A fuse would be fine, assuming you use the proper gauge wire. 14 or even 16 AWG should be fine.
     

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