*Closed* 20% Off Supercharger Group Buy 2nd Gen 4.0 Engine

340 is about what I thought it would be. Thanks.

I got a text from the dealer saying my truck is ready but I'm in Vegas and won't be able to pick it up until after work tomorrow. It's going to be a long work day. I hope I can stay focused.

 

I'd almost buy the supercharger just for that reason alone.

 

Anybody try using the afr gauge on the bd? There's two of them in the gauge menu, when I try them they say 8 all the time.

Installed the boost gauge today, was able to get 6 lbs of boost easily. Hard to get more, is it due to living at 3k elevation? Running the 2.85 pulley.

 

Folks who still need a gauge mounting solution, please check out @TacoCat's Gauge Pod Group Buy thread, specifically post # 38.

 

Thanks for the info, yeah running analog gauge. Glad I went with smaller pulley.

 

this is pretty awesome. i had the dealer disable my seatbelt chime the first week i had my truck!

i broke down and did the bump starter method to get the crankshaft pulley bolt off. does anyone have advice on how to lock up the pulley in order to torque that bitch to 200+ ft lbs?

 

If you have a M/T - put it in 6th gear, parking brake on and crank away.

If you have an automatic I think you need a crank pulley tool - they loan them at Autozone, etc.

 

i'll check it out, thanks.

 

You also might be able to remove an inspection cover by the flywheel and wedge a prybar in the flywheel teeth - that's a trick I've seen used on other vehicles but I'm unfamiliar with the A/T Tacomas.

 

I put two 1/4" ratchet extensions in the holes in the pulley, wedged a piece of rebar between them and the frame. That wasnt enough so I made a strap wrench out of a serpentine belt and a clamp and wedged in between the crank pulley and fan pulley.

 

i just read through chunks of this thread to see how others were dealing with this. i was thinking i would try something similar to your idea with the extensions in the pulley holes and a bar in between. sounds like i can skip that idea.

my local auto parts store does not rent a crank pulley holder.

maybe i can try to rig a strap wrench around the pulley wedging the base of the wrench behind something solid...then crank...

 

I used a cordless 1/2" impact. It was a bit hesitant to come off but it broke free after about 20 seconds of holding the trigger. I put it back on the same way.

 

That's risky. You should verify you're at the minimum required torque.

From another crank pulley thread:

 

I'm confident it's tight enough.

 

Good enough for you good enough for me

I'm aware of the dubious history of the quoted. But I think he might be right about this - Yes the crank pulley is keyed, but I'm not sure about the oil pump rotor.

Point being, some bolts are more critical than others when it comes to getting the torque right. I'd put crank pulley bolts in the more critical category.

 

Thats what she said

 

I used my adjustable torque setting impact gun to tighten it too. I marked the bolt and will check with routine maintenance

 

When you guys have your AFR up and going post some numbers!