Front Diff and Transfer Case Oil Change Howto

anybody run synthetic

$29 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 either mobil 1 or redline with a friction modifier in conjunction? does it make it worse running synthetic oil with friction modifiers? ive been reading that a lot of people are having problems running mobil1 and running into chatter problems, I have a 13 DCLB 4WD. just went to the dealership and they said they run conventional gl4/5 gear oil with a friction modifier, I was just looking for something a little better since I love my truck and want her to last for a long time

 

See post 914.

No issue with the Mobile1, just did a 400 mile trip last weekend.

 

That's sounds extreme (220,000 miles) but I do think 60,00 miles between changing the fluid wouldn't be a problem. I've changed mine a few times every 30,000 and the oil looked fine when I drained it. Think I'll go longer this time, especially using synthetic.

 

If you think about it, the average vehicle owner in America just changes oil and air filters and not even religiously on those. Their cars can still last a long ass time. I take the an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure line.

 

Changed the drive-line fluids today (~27,xxx on the clock):
-transmission: Red Line MT90 75w90 (GL-4 is required)
-transfer-case: Mobil 1 75w90 (Gl-4 or GL-5 is required)
-rear differential: Mobil 1 75w90 (GL-5 is required)
-front differential: Mobil 1 75w90 (GL-5 is required)

Used Red Line MT90 75w90 for the transmission, then put the remainder of 3rd bottle into the tranfer-case and mixed it with the Mobil 1 75w90. In total 9 qts are required to do the full drive-line.

These were great resources for fluid choices:
-GL-4 v. GL-5
http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf

-Toyota's outline of capacities, capacities, and viscosity requirements for the Tacoma
http://www.ttguide.net/maintenance_data_fuel_oil_level_etc_-158.html

All-in-all, super easy job. Just had to buy 10mm hex socket and 24mm 6 point socket as those aren't typically included in most tools sets.

Typical sludge was on magnets and fluid was no dirtier than anticipated.

Found this in the rear differential, attached to the plug's magnet:

 

There have been a few people finding those in their diffs recently. Fairly recent in the 2nd gen section. A machinist chimed in and said he determined it was from manufacturing (from drilling) and likely just sat on the magnet the whole time so no harm done.

 

Stupid question, and maybe this was already covered. Does the differential and transfer case take the same oil?

I have a torn cv boot and thinking I need to drain front differential to do that anyways.

Thanks

 

Yes.

 

I couldnt get in there because of the skid plate...

 

If you have a TRD OR - Remove front skid - then the rear skid. 8x bolts, 12mm socket.

Impact wrenches make life easier for skid removal.

 

Look for YouTube videos etc and you will be fine. Keep asking questions on here, plenty of guys will chime in and help you. You'll save tons of money by doing this yourself.

 

.... just stripped the hex to get into the front differential. Why did Toyota make this one a hex and the transfer case, and rear differential 24mm..?

 

I dont have air tools..and used a breaker bar which didnt work at all.

 

I had soaked the shit out mine with PB Blaster before taking them off.

 

Is it a lost Cause? It's completely stripped now, what could I do?

 

I don't think it is a lost cause. I would bet that this has happened to someone before.

 

Fuck ... there's a tool to get out stripped bolts ? Right?

 

I have heard of people welding a nut onto it so they can use an impact wrench to remove it.

 

This is a great idea!

 

Whatever you do, once you get it out make sure to replace it so next time you can hopefully get it out easier.