Long Travel BS Thread

the arp studs for the rear need to be cut just a tad to be able to fit in even with the brake pads removed.. found a pic from a member on here that did it and it looks like he cut off about 7 threads.. i talked to DTFtony about it and he said hes done it 2 different ways.. cut off about 1/4" or drill a hole through the back and insert them that way then weld up the hole.. i think im just gonna cut the studs a bit.. i im going to be doing the fronts as well once i finish the rear.. heres the pic i found from a member on here that cut the studs

 

Thank you - the cut stud looks like it has just the right amount of thread to be flush with the top of the open ended nut on the spacer.

 

there was another picture i just didnt save it to my computer but the finished pic he actually had a few threads sticking out the lug nut, but not past the wheel spacers

 

Speaking of alignments, I am new to LT, but I am crawling more than flying. What are good alignment numbers for on road? Same as oem spec?

 

that would be my guess. I have TC long travel on my daily and got it aligned with Factory specs Handles great

 

maybe just a lil added caster

 

I forget the weight of my truck but it's a typical built 2nd gen. Over 5k. I obviously want more sidewall flex out crawling... idk I'm happy with the way my sidewalls flex at 20 psi on my current D rated tires...

Yeah I'm going to be on 17s. Either way I'm not worried about them for crawling. I just don't know if I would possible have an issue on high speed stuff blowing out tires, cracking wheels etc.

 

Always possible. Depends on a lot though. How fast your going and the rock you hit. How big the tires are and pressure. Weight of the truck.

Really a shit load of factors.

But id be more worried about bending many other things before doing that.

 

Yeah yuh... fair enough. It's frustrating I can't seem to find a reason to choose between C and D on these MTRs lol. Wish I had one choice...

 

With the MTRs, i see no issue with Cs. They are strong side walls as it is.

 

Finally put 35's on today

 

well i got one rear side arp studs in.. gonna do the other side tomorrow so i dont piss off the neighbors with the constant air compressor and impact lol.. ended up cutting about a 1/4" off each stud so it could fit here are some pix

 

If you use the gear ratio calculators going from stock to 35's on a second gen auto you only need 4:27's, but...4:30's are only available for the rear and not for the front ...so 4:10's or 4:56's are the options. I agree that 4:88's are overkill for a daily driver...I think that puts you over 3k at 65 mph. I saw @jberry813 commented that when he drove his new 2nd gen home cross country the 4:88's were a bummer.

 

Likelyhood of this going down with hand tools in your opinion? Impact hammer seems the way to go but just from a personal experience point of view do you think it would be doable w/o messing something up?

 

i wouldnt do it without a impact.. i mean it can prolly be done without one but it would be a pain in the ass.. the impact def made it much easier, and it still took a lil bit for the impact to get it all the way snug

 

Awesome - I actually came here to ask a variation on the old "what lift do I need to fit 35's" question. What is the minimum lift needed in front to fit them with fiberglass, flattened pinch weld, and cmc? The rear kits I'm looking at only provide 1.5" of lift and I'd like to have the truck sit level if possible. Never really seen this mentioned since most 35s questions are about mid travel w/ 3" lifts. I'll have a 2" over kit on btw.

Bonus round for anyone that knows how long the tie rod extensions are on a +3.5 or +2 kit are. If it seems like an obvious answer it's because I have a kit that's advertised as +2 but the extensions are 2.5".

How's the truck feel with the new shoes?

 

So the bigger issue is getting the new ones all the way in rather than knocking the old ones out? Interesting I wasn't even thinking about that. Lol

 

With a ~3" lift I had to relocate my cab mount and also partially tub the front for 35s. CMC and flattened pinch weld wasn't enough for mine but I couldnt stand when they rubbed, it lasted a 1 mile drive home before I got the ginder out.

 

Sweet truck man - I'm liking how you're using it - that's kind of the idea for mine. Getting a CB and HAM when $ is there for it and I hope to be getting into NM in the months to come for some overlanding / hiking / bouldering. I'm hoping the extra track width from my +2 kit will make less tubbing necessary when I put on the bigger tires.