3rd Gen Center Console Square Pocket Mods : Updated 5/18/2017

If I had to choose a from transparent or color, I would choose color. But if people wanted transparent. I would suggest a window with a colored frame. It would cool looking if the window was recessed and tapped for more finished look. Also, that way you can have one design and swap out a window or color blank piece.

I would want a black one for me personally.

I would recess just enough to clear the buttons. Not super deep. But enough to clear from the lid from hitting. If you make this, I am going to upholster the interior with black felt so when you open the lid, it would look like the inside of a jewelry box. LOL

Also you wouldn't need to add a floor to the bottom of the pocket. So we can have plenty of room to run the wiring.

I am not sure if you can fit 3 switches, but if you can that would be awesome.

 

Do you have any plans to make a lid for that empty cubby hole on the left side of the dash?

 

Transparent first, the good thing about this new plastic I'm using is that unlike the 3d Printed kind, you can sand and refinish it.

The bottom of the switch panel is already open and fits (3) switches, however, the whole assembly will sit higher then the rest of the console. I personally like to maintain the existing design lines which is why I suggested cutting a larger hole underneath. This way, the lid can be flush with the console and you can see the buttons underneath.

 

I have a LED bar switch I need to install on that panel. When I remove it, I plan to take measurements of the panel and try to re-design it adding more functionality. A lid is possible, but I can't tell you until I take a closer look.

 

Awesome mold work. I keep wanting to try my hand at that stuff.

 

Personally, I don't mind it being a little higher than the rest of the console with the lid. But seeing as a hole will have to be cut anyways, I don't think it would make much of a difference cutting a bigger hole. Once there's a hole, there's no going back lol.

One question: Will the lid be removable, in case one wanted to remove it temporarily? Because I don't think that even with it being slightly raised, I would accidentally hit the switches since my hand isn't near there most of the time.

 

The hinge is a steel rod pressed in. You could push it out but it wont be easy.

 

You got a game plan, I say go for it. It if doesn't work out, then iterate. We won't know for sure till it gets tested out.

I am really happy your considering it though. Not a lot of people would tackle this sort of stuff. Your doing awesome btw.

 

A small update, I worked all weekend to get some new molds done. All seem to be working fine except for the lid. However the lid is looking promising. Below is a pic of the lid fresh out of its mold which I cracked open tonight. The issue this time is the mold. Unlike the other molds I made at the same time, the lid did not cure 100%. But I'm not discouraged, all it needs is a bit more time to cure. I have some ideas on accelerating the curing time.



I'm shipping out the regular coin holder tomorrow and have some more ready to go for those interested.

 

How can I order a coin holder?

 

I need a 3D printer! Great work!

 

Is that the rx200?

 

Lid update:

I cast the first lid today out of the new mold. It came out with some texture due to the mold taking longer to cure. But it worked.

I'm gonna work on it again tomorrow night and sort out any kinks left in the process. Crossing my fingers here in hopes I can get these in the mail right away.

Here is a picture of the first lid sitting on an organizer. The hole in the middle was caused by me applying too much pressure while removing it from the mold. I promise none of yours will have that hole.

 

I work at an investment casting foundry and I wonder how expensive casting something like this would be in aluminum? Hmmmm, I'll have to fire up my 3D printer. We have already ran parts through and PLA burns out great and doesn't blow up the mold as long as the infill is like 15% ish.

 

Let me know if you can make one, preferably with the hinged lid.

 

So you would pour molten aluminum into a mold made of PLA? Or the other way around?

 

We will attach the 3D printed part to something so that we can dip it into a mixture. We let it dry, and then repeat about 5 times. Once that's finished drying, we throw it in a super hot oven to melt out everything in there, thus making the mold. Then put molten aluminum in there and let it dry. Normally we'd make a tool to shoot wax into to burn it out to replicate, but we have recently tried one offs with 3D prints and it they look great.

So answering your question directly, neither. We use the 3D printed part to make a mold, then pour the molten Aluminum in there. The mold then breaks off, so then we have the part!

 

I see, so the mold is only good one time?

 

Yeah, until a tool is made to shoot waxes into. Then the waxes take the place of 3D printing.

 

There are 3d Printers that print in wax already.