Raleigh North Carolina and surrounding areas

Yes but his mileage didn't change much going there vs coming home. Same gear ratio in front and rear diffs.

 

that RTT is pushing 150 LBS

 

No but there is parasitic drag thru the transfer case, how much and how it effects, there is power loss pulling a chain vs spinning a straight shaft, even a high velocity chain, then add power loss thru all the extra powered moving parts.
Way back when I had my '90 4Runner I gained 1 mpg just swapping the front drive flanges to manual lock outs and not pushing the CV axles all the time (ADD FRONT DIFF)
Every little bit has an effect

 

Theirs progress

 

Only if there's kale involved

 

So what is all the damage on @JimboAnz truck, sounded great on the video

 

Oh after looking harder, I see the wonderful ring teeth

 

This. If you have a case out and spin it by hand in 4 hi vs 2hi it's got a lot of drag..

 

@David Loflin
http://greensboro.craigslist.org/pts/5907272066.html

 

http://www.nc4x4.com/forum/threads/toyota-v6-e-locker.177084/#post-1493342

 

Did you build that. That's too cool.
Never mind. Found the thread. It's even cooler that you built it.

 

now rebuilding it.

 

What are you making Betty Crocker

 

Save some cookies when I come visit

 

Twisted Betty Crocker, Monster+Dorito sugar cookies and some Rum to make it fun

 

I am building a rack that will go around a camper shell and would like to get your suggestions. The plan is to have a roof rack and a roof top tent mounted on those plates

Here is the sketch I made:

1. Orange part is the bed

2. White one is the canopy
3. The 3 flat bars (lets call it side angled plate) are plates coming out to the top.

Currently the side angled plate is fabbed, but It has a lot of play (when I exert presuure, the long plates are bending at the angle) in it and I am certain its going to be worse when we mount the tent and rack.

Questions for you guys:

Do you think running a 1" bar all along the plate longitudinally will strengthen and also prevent the play?
Do you think gusseting at the angles will suffice?

Appreciate your help.

 

using tube cut in half in place of bar stock would lessen the material needed (3ft of tube cut in half length wise) you wouldn't need to weld full length, just stitch and have good penetration, the hollow also gives you a wire path up to RTT)

i would also consider running an angle along top off bed rails to attach your uprights too, would spread load across entire bed side instead of point loading each upright mount.

may also consider adding an air deflector to your cab roof rack to try and direct airflow over and around the RTT sail, that will catch a LOT of air being that far above the cab and shell.

cutting this kinda close time wise aren't you ?