Manual front diff actuator

After having the second front diff actuator fail on me, I started looking for a solution. I have soldered the motor leads only to find the next weak link in the electric lemon.

Looking at how it operates there are some intelligent features. The motor and the control circuitry seem to be the weak points. Eliminating them but keeping the clock spring that holds tension on the shift fork seemed to be the best way forward. I bounced this idea off a talented friend, draftsman, machinist, class 11 racer, and this is what happened.




It's an interesting project, with a shocking amount of time in machine setup alone. The end result will be the spindle bolting onto the large gear and the shaft sticking out the plastic cover about 1/2". A lever will bolt to the shaft and a cable will actuate the diff. All the limit switches will still work and the computer should be none the wiser. I'm pretty sure that I will also be able to get 2L out of this as well. I don't know if it's worth manufacturer costs but it has been fun so far.

 

Very cool. Keep us updated.

 

^^^Agreed

 

Many people have talked about a cable actuated front dif lock, but as far as I know no one has done it. I haven't checked in a while to see if anyone has. Someone really needs to! I have a manual T-case, so I would love to get rid of the electric actuator on the front dif! I would love to hear if anyone has updated info. Whoever cracks this will sell a ton of them because the ADD actuator is a weak link,

 

Way back when GM came up with that bright ideal the S10's had a vacuum actuator that shifted the front diff via a cable.

 

Here is a good thread to read http://www.rocksolidtoys.com/forum/showthread.php?t=413&page=13

 

I didn't even think of selling them. There is a ton of time in it, and I can't think of any way to build these without cores to modify. I guess it could be marketed as a kit but the work involved in assembly is fairly intricate and still wouldn't be cheap at low production levels. A ham fisted DIY guy would botch the job and expect compensation. Who wants to deal with that?

 

@ahspurlock if your ADD goes out again

 

Do like ECGS and charge a core fee, refunded when you get the core sent from the buyer (within a 30 day limit). I'd be interested, depending on cost.

 

I looked at swapping in the fj parts but that causes other issues. If I was going to go that route I would want manual hubs.

 

Same here.

 

Great idea! BTW, Posi-Lok 4X4 is a cable operated system that is used on the older vacuum driven systems. Thought about how to modify that type to work on our trucks quite a few times. FYI... Their design uses a knob on the cable with a locking push button to hold it in position once you engage/disengage the fork. You'd probably want a way to lock it in place so it doesn't actuate or jump out. Bring it to market and you'll have buyers - I'd be one.

 

So, yeah, there is a video of the
prototype.

 

So after you get the front diff set up, how 'bout working on a mechanical (lever or cable) system to engage the transfer case... (hint, hint, hint)

 

The t-case is a simple swap with a 07 and up auto trans FJ cruiser t-case.

 

If you can get 2lo without a dash beep there are members who will pay good money for this mod, myself included. Backing up a trailer is an exercise in clutch smoking without low range.

 

From what I understand, not as simple on a 6speed.

 

You do have to swap the input gear from the 6 speed tacoma transfer case into the automatic transmission fj case. I bet that guy from RST could explain it better but I think that would be the simplest solution.

 

Tom84ford did you get anywhere with this project.
I just found that my a.d.d went out again. Somehow water is getting in. And this idea you have seems like it could work.

 

Going to bring this back up.
Just in the hopes someone out there tries this.
It’s like every other week someone here has a Actuator problems.