Long Travel BS Thread

So there is a guy selling 3x18 600lb near me. Would 18's work instead of 16's ?

 

With a 4x4 probably not. Our lower spring collars are different and sit higher than 2wd set ups. It would take a hell of a coil compressor to get it on.

 

Hmmm alright. Thanks

 

dynamat and a louder stereo

 

This.


Dsm told me the same when I talked to Micah about swapping over to 3x18x600's when king was way behind on 3x16x600's

 

I approve this message

 

anyone looking for some kings?

got a pair of 2.5x16 king smoothies with compression adjusters for sale

 

Any first gen guys looking to regear

http://www.dezertrangers.com/vb/thr...xle-w-4-56-Deaver-J59-Saw-Coilovers-TC-uppers

 

Any shock guru's have a good starting point for valving on coilovers for bypasses. They have whatever fox put in them. Factory series 2.5/3.0 combo

 

as light as possible so you carry the majority of your tuning into the bypass. You don't need to go complete "coil carrier" but keep the valving to a minimum

 

I'm guessing it has 15/12 in it, should I just lighten it up a little on both comp/rebound or one or the other?

 

I got a custom 1 piece for my tundra from a company called Roadrunner Fiberglass. I told them exactly what i wanted, including the rise and flare, and they made it in a few weeks, making adjustments as we went. Great communication, and way too cheap at 650$

I didn't want ridiculous louvers and giant skewps so I got a stock hood, 5" over fenders, and 2" higher rise. Really happy with how it worked out

 

Theres the McNeil tundra one piece too, kinda the middle ground between shawn's and the fiberwerx one

 

Pics!?

 

+1 on roadrunner they were great to work with, had my bedsides done in 1 week and on time and also cheap

 

How close have you guys got your shocks to the frame without having to notch it? I'm debating if I should notch mine or not..... can't drive my truck at the moment(no driveshaft and no brakes) lol

 

soon... I'm just wrapping up mounting the headlights then need to finish the bumper and the new front end is done...

might as well... will take a half day. plate it while you're there imo

 

im not worried about the tires hitting, im worried about the shocks hitting the frame on articulation...got 1/2"between the body and side of the frame at droop, haven't articulated it yet, and im not breaking down my leaf packs again just to check lol. just curious how close have people run em without issue, my whole balkhalf is already boxed too.

 

I would lighten up to at least a 12/10, maybe less depending on if your talking front rear/weight of Truck/etc. You want the C/O fairly light so it doesn't fight tuning the bypass, but still have enough Valving to help take some of the load off

 

Clearance the frame. Just check up one side of the axle and watch how close the other shock gets to the frame.