toy. long life coolant

just got the Haynes manual, and couldn't figure out what is meant by "Toyota Long-Life Coolant" or equivalent??? It divides coolants into before 2K and 2K1 and later (mine is a 2K1).. want to do a full flush of the cooling system, but kinda worry about what should go in? My '84 was easier... any advice??

 

Out here in Hawaii, we are held hostage by the dealer....can't drive outta state, order things by truck, etc... if that is not bad enough, they don't stock anything on the outer island (like the one I live on, Hawaii)......and they seem to think that parts sales is where they can make their obscene profit....bottom line is, I would really like to go down to K-mart and pick up the same thing that the dealer would sell to me for a weeks pay.

 

I don't think it's a good idea to mix different types of coolants. Like chris said.
If you're going to put in a different coolant, buy one of those DIY coolant flush things. You splice it into one of the radiator hoses and screw in your hose. Drain the coolant (environmentally friendly way of course ) and fill it up with water. If I remember right you leave the hose on and let the water flush the radiator and run the vehicle so the water pump helps push the crap out and the clean water through. It's been years since I've done that so don't take my word on it.
Edit: I think the one I used was made by Prestone

 

Here's the one I used on an old F-150. It worked beautifully. But like I said, that was 10+ years ago.
http://www.customclassictrucks.com/...stone_diy_radiator_flush_system/photo_03.html

 

if you go to the dealer say you say in their mailing the coolant advertised for 18 bucks (instead of the 25 on their price sticker) they will give it to you for that price. for me they did

 

+1 GM Dexcool is nasty when mixed with other coolant. I've also seen it clog up cooling systems, especially on late 90's S10s. With all of the manufacturers using different coolants, I would stay with what comes in the vehicle from the factory if possible. JMO.

 

There are two main types of Toyota coolant. LLC and SLLC are what are indicated by the year break you are reading about. Long Life Coolant is a high quality traditional style coolant that is red in color and can be purchased full strength and mixed accordingly. The SLLC is the newer product and is NOT the same chemistry. It is an OAT or HOAT style that is ONLY sold in premixed bottles, ready to use. The chemistry of these coolants can be messed up by mixing with hard or treated water, so Toyota controlls the issue by only selling it premixed. You should NOT mix the two types. You can put the SLLC in an older vehicle after a complete flush to remove the old style.

Mixing of chemistry can cause some negative reactions and actually do damage. I am not a fan of the "one type for all" type products out there. The specific type of coolant a manufactorer uses is designed to work with all the other products in the system from the metals to the gaskets, seals and type of plastics in the system. I will not mess around with changing products willy nilly.

 

Can't speak for the gen 1 taco's, but this is what is listed in the 2009 factory taco service manual.

From the 2009 Factory Service Manual, Cooling page CO-3

Use only Toyota Super Long Life Coolant or similar high quality ethylene glycol based non-silicate, non-amine, non-nitrite, and non-borate coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology (coolant with a long-life hybrid organic acid technology consists of a combination of low phosphates and organic acids).

Prestone Extended life coolant will work, even though its green.

 

Can you point to any specific data that Prestone has that says you can use that in place of SLLC? The website states some ATSM standards that it meets but one of those is for heavy equipment service and calls for "low silicate" as opposed to "non-silicate" not to mention the other properties. I do not go in for marketing hype. If there was truly a one size fits all why do the auto makers not jump all over it? You would think in these economic times they would be looking for anything to save money. There is a reason for the more expensive technology used today, not to mention the benefits to the environment from reduced change intervals and the reduction in waste that gives.

By the way, "hybrid organic acid technology" is what I referenced in the HOAT term I used. These coolants actually "etch" the internals of the system to create a light level of intentional corrosion that is shown to last longer over time. If the chemestry of the coolants were the same and interchangeable then why do you need different chemical test strips for various types of coolant? Why do some coolants and applications require specific "charge" treatments to maintain protection where others do not? Use that Prestone in a liner equipped diesel without the charge chemical and see what happens with liner pitting, cavitation and big repairs.

One size fits all, Yeah right! Not picking at you sweater. I have been in this business for many years and seen epic fails on a regular basis. Yes there are some cross line products out there but you really need to research to find what will work. Even oils can be an issue on some applications. 5-30 is not 5-30. When you look at some underlying specs you will be hard pressed to find a non-synthetic oil that meets a specific specification. People and shops and even dealers use the wrong oil. Customers have trouble with sludging or wear and the auto maker takes the wrap. Fix a car that is running poorly due to the type of spark plug used even though some company lists it as the correct plug for the car. Try to explain to the customer that "just had a tune up" or "just put those in" why they do not work. So many problems are induces but the dots are rarely connected.

Now I will put my soap box back in the corner.

 

No offense taken, I'm simply relaying the information I have in the Toyota service manual. You're right there is no one size fits all, however the catastrophic consequences of mixing red vs green coolant before 2000 have been reduced, at least the coolant won't turn into a paste/goo.

I've added about 4oz of Prestone to the Toyota coolant in the resevior(sp). When I do eventually flush the system, the coolant will be changed.

The 5yr/100,000 mile coolant change interval I have a hard time believing. If the system hasn't been cracked open and is original maybe. Years ago is was 2yr/24,000 miles. Especially, with the addition of block heaters BOILING the coolant at the heater. I'm not advocating mixing the factory coolant 50/50 with Prestone.

 

I am dealing with a "new bought" 180k mile engine. My idea is to flush the coolant completely (not knowing how old the present coolant is), and all these facts make me think that the dealer holds all the cards!! It is a 2001 and the owner's manual says toy. LLC. Not to worry, I can save money somewhere else, I always think it is better to sleep well, than to worry about cutting corners. Again great advice.

 

another option is the new Zerex Asian formula. Valvoline owns Zerex and the website says it is compatible with current Asian vehicles. IIRC he website said it is pink in color.