Help me drive my 97 forever!

I have a manual tranny ( ) but i'd advise you to check the fluid and if it's still good and pink/red, flush it. Drop the pan and change the filter. Really not hard to do.

 

Good idea keeping your truck. I have recently decided to keep my 97 as well. Our engines are different but I suspect that the basic services are similar. I replaced all of my suspension already, upgraded to fab tech coil overs up front with a new rack and pinion and power steering pump. All new ball joints as well. In the rear is Old Man Emu lift springs and fab tech shocks.

If you haven't already, a new water pump and timing belt is a good idea. As is a new air filter, spark plugs and wires. I upgraded my headlights to a set from autozone, they are a lot brighter than stock. You might want to check your brakes out, and check your parking brake set up.


What do you plan on using your truck for? Ours is a daily driver and weekend adventurer. So we decided to chose more robust parts for longevity.

 

I thought the 4 bangers had a timing chain?

 

Timing chain here, so I shouldn't have to worry about that. I've spent the past couple hours reading about transmission fluid services. I am not sure if I want to do anything there. Maybe at most drain and refill. I would hate to start having problems with it now. Maybe I'll replace the auto shifter bushings in the summer as there is some play there.

With regards to suspension and steering: I don't have play in the steering so I think I'll wait on the rack and pinion. Suspension could probably use replacing, new shocks and springs in the rear, new assembly's up front.

Differential gear oil, transfer case oil, will happen at the next oil change.

The truck is a daily driver. I have a two mile commute to work (one way) and other than that we take my girlfriend's Outback everywhere, unless we are going to the hardware store. I think I'll start making a list of what could use preventative maintenance in order of most pressing and then source the parts I want. Replace as funds and time allow.

Is a radiator flush something easy I can do myself?

 

Parking breake light went on earlier this year, not sure what to do about it, I never use it, but t would be nice if it wasn't lighting up my dash. Bakes were done earlier this year. Replaced headlights in 2013, but just with stock. I'll look into new headlights as the stoc ones are horrible. Also dome light doens't work. Fuse is good, replaced bulb, still nothing. I'll try the bulb again as I've heard that sometimes the new bulb just isn't good.

 

As far as headlight I'm thinking Hella E-codes, but not sure which bulbs...I don't want to mess with any wiring if possible. http://www.rallylights.com/h6054-hella-200mm-rectangular-e-code-hi-lo-conversion-headlamp-kit.html

Also put some new bulbs in the tail lights and back up lights (50W?)

 

I started with the 11 oz Fluid Film cans the 1st year and now use a Kelley Sport Fluid Film kit, with the 32" extension wand, that lets you get deep into the front box section. I bought 4-1 gallon jugs on Ebay, as it was the best price and it will give you the best bang for the buck over the cans. I find using ramps on the front, lets me move around easier, as does doing it on grass and it's less messy. Using the kit with a compressor, I would highly recommend buying a respirator, latex gloves, safety glass and wearing old clothes. If you do it on a cool fall day, I would also recommend heating up Fluid Film a little, as this will help thin it out and make for a better application, I also use a paint mixer with my drill, so it's thoroughly mixed to the proper consistency.

 

I feel like I'm late to the party with the fluid film. I took living in Georgia for granted in the past and never realized that the rust would be an issue. Without a serious inspection I'm pretty rust free. I would like to do some preventative work though.

We have already had a bunch of snow storms here and so I don't think its going to be possible for me to do a real fluid film job until the spring. My options it seems are wash the truck weekly (good drive through with underbody wash next door) or fluid film in spray cans, or combination of the two.

 

You are Preaching to the choir, as I just started using Fluid Film few a years ago, after receiving a LSC notice from Toyota because of premature frame perforations. I had never heard about FF till I became a member of TW and wish I did this from day one. It's better late than never and will do this to any vehicle I own for the rest of my life, especially driving on salted/brine slush that's common in the Northeast.

 

Between owning a 1st gen and almost buying a 2003 DC last week I think I have read every thread on Tacomaworld dealing with rust/frames/rust prevention and treatment.

It always seems that people with bad experiences post with pictures of rust or frame replacements. But there must be a bunch of people who had no problems or very little problems.

Scientifically speaking is this website an accurate representation of a tacoma population sample?

The way I figure it, my truck is 20 years old in January. It seems that people would go about 5-10 years from new before their frames were perforated (living in road salted areas). By my very rudimentary calculations I have minimum 3 years of frame left, but probably 5 if not more.

If my truck had 300K miles on it like it should for its year I wouldn't care so much about keeping it alive, but the engine has a lot of life let in it and the resale value is still good, so no use replacing her if I don't have too. Plus three years would give me plenty of time to save up for a late second or thirds generation taomca.

 

I think it's human nature to complain when you didn't like something, as opposed to raving when you are satisfied with a product, but that doesn't mean their complaints aren't credible and valid.

I feel like the engine in my Tacoma is bullet proof if maintain properly, but not so much with the frame. I see my frame causing me to take my Tacoma off the road before the engine, so I will do what I can with FF to extend my frames longevity.

 

Washed the truck today so I could get a good look at the frame.
Noticed that there is a coating over the frame, not done my me. The truck was in Georgia it's entire life prior to my ownership in 2007 so it wouldn't have been part of the recall or spray. I ran the VIN on the Toyota site and there are no records. Not really sure what to think but it looks in great shape overall. Checked inside the rails as best I could and everything looked and felt clean. Only a minor amount of surface rust on the frame near the engine compartment.

Also took the time to check where the manifold was cracked. My diagnoses was based on previous cracks (noise + exhaust smell in the cab). After taking off the heat shield and feeling for air while the truck idled, I determined the manifold is not cracked. There is a gap between the manifold and the down tube (not sure if that's the right name for the exhaust pipe between catalytic converter and the manifold). I'm still going to replace the manifold with the mini header for preventative measures. Looks like I'll order the down tube as well. Hopefully I can get the bolts between the pipe and cat off...I see breaker bars, torches, and a grinder in my future.

 

It looks and sounds like someone cared for the frame, which is a good sign. That coating looks identical to the CRC coating Toyota applied, but if there is no record maybe the owner had it done independently or maybe he paid Toyota to apply it.

 

I was thinking about us Tacoma owners and our obsession with these vehicles and their frame upkeep. I think what it boils down to is that if you owned the truck before the whole rust debacle you would almost give a limb to keep your beloved truck going for as long as you know it can. But when it comes to purchasing one we advise and steer clear of rusty frames knowing the agony it could cause.

 

I didn't understand what you meant by this part of your post. What was your point?

 

Typo meant advise to steer clear.

I guess it's a bit philosophical...most of us wouldn't dare purchase a Tacoma that is rusted, or succumbing to the dreaded rust. However, many of us owned our trucks prior to the knowlegde of the poor frame composition and rather than sell the truck we work really hard to keep them alive.

 

I think most of us want what we paid for and don't want to take a loss by selling something that has a reputation as a quality truck.

 

Oh, man...I fought the exhaust system on my old 03 PreRunner like you wouldn't believe...
Use tons of PB Blaster, get an impact wrench if you don't already have one, 1/2" drive impact sockets and extensions (LONG extensions) and u-joints, and take regular breaks during the job so you don't get impatient and break something or strip any bolts.
Take a whole day (or two) to do it.
I really wish I would have, instead of trying to squeeze it into a weekday afternoon.
Good luck with the upkeep, my dad has replaced the motor AND the transmission in his 99 4wd 2.7 Tacoma (now has maybe 140k original miles on it), but that's mostly due to him (and my brother) neglecting maintenance.
And DON'T "upgrade" the cold air intake.
The stock one is very good, my dad put a K&N intake in his and the filter constantly just falls off, no matter how hard you tighten it, and he just drives around with it sucking in dirty air all the time, lol
I love my dad, but just because it's a "work truck" doesn't mean you don't have to keep an eye on things.

 

I've considered that, but it seems the overall consensus is that if you've always used conventional stick with it as the switch can be bad for seals and gaskets.

 

Just got my new mini header in the mail. It's so nice looking! I can't wait for warmer weather to put it on. I have replaced the manifold twice in the past year, once for it being completely cracked, and the second time for having a broken flange (broke replacing the crush gaskets). Right now only the cheap rock auto gaskets are broken and leaking but it will be nice to have a fully functioning exhaust system that won't ever break again.