Wheel shake

Yea idk what could be causing the vibration then it's driving me insane not being able to figure it out

 

is your steering wheel shaking? if not it could very well be something unrelated to your new wheels maybe just a coincidence? not sure man haha I'm out of ideas haha

 

Yea it's really bad right around 55-60 it's shakes my hole hand lol

 

maybe the spacers are no good, not cnc'd properly and don't sit properly? i really don't know much about different spacer manufacturers, i know most people on here recommend the spydertrax spacers, they are pricey at about 100/set. but they are known for making good quality spacers lol i know its just a piece of metal but when it comes to stuff like that on a truck, precision is key. could make a difference but it could also end up being a waste of money haha just a thought.

 

Here is a problem I had with my 2008 Tacoma when I replaced the wheels and experienced the steering wheel vibrating at freeway speeds. Instead of pointing you to the post I pasted the comments on the issues I had and the resolution (Haweka adapter for wheel balancing) that fixed my problem.

First the details of my Tacoma, it is a 2008 off-road DC 4X4 with 51,000 miles and has never been driven off road. I have replaced the stock tires at 40,000 miles with Michelin LTX M/S 2 tires and the wheels have been changed to FJ Cruiser SE anthracite wheels. Over the past year while driving at freeway speeds (65-75) and when applying the brakes at that those speeds my steering wheel would vibrate and I would not feel any pulsating in the brake pedal. For the most part my truck stays parked in the garage and only is driven 2-3 times a month due to having a work vehicle. The braking issue appears to be intermittent and never happens when driving at slower speeds off the freeway. I really did not think it was the rotors since the braking problem was intermittent and manifests itself at freeway speeds.

So these are steps I have taken thus far: checked the balancing of the tires at discount tire, checked the front alignment and that checked within specifications. Last week I purchased the EBC brake kit (Stage 5 super street) and I installed the new rotors and pads. I am still in the process of bedding in the brake pads to the new rotors. While applying very mild braking from 65 mph the steering wheel started to vibrate.

So here is what I am thinking, there might be a slight possibility I received a new warped rotor but since this braking problem is only at freeway speeds and I get no pulsating through the brake pedal I believe that is not the issue. I am thinking it might be a front end component a worn ball joint or front wheel bearing or some other related font end component. When I get the time I am going to jack the front end up and check for play by grabbing the wheel at the 6 and 12 o’clock position.

Thought I check in and tell everyone what fixed the vibration for me. First off I went into the local Toyota dealer to get the spiral cable recall completed and I had them check the brakes for the above mentioned problem. The service adviser calls me and tells me the after market rotors (EBC I just installed) are warped and there was no way for them to measure the rotors since they are slotted with dimples. He recommended replacing the rotors and pads with Toyota OEM parts. I told him no on the replacement pads and rotors. After searching the web I came across the Toyota bulletin to use the Haweka adapter. I returned to Discount Tire and they located a store that had the Haweka adapter and they re-balanced my wheels this past Friday. I have put over 300 miles since Friday on the Tacoma and the vibration is gone. The vibration demon was a balancing issue. I will be contacting the Toyota dealership and will be telling them they did not diagnose my truck correctly.

 

That's really cool and makes total sense (just watched a video about the system)

 

This is probably the problem. If your wheels are hub centric (as your spacers are) then the wheels need to be balanced mounted on a cone at the hub. The Haweka adapter mentioned above is meant to be used in conjunction with a hub cone. If they used just the lug hole adapter and no cone, the wheels are probably not balanced properly.

 

never even thought of asking if the rims are hub centric haha kinda got distracted with the spacer situation lol would it cause an issue if the rims are not hub centric but mounted on hub centric spacers, would he require a hub centric ring for the rim? @Styx586

 

If the hubs don't match then yea it would be a good idea to get a hub centric ring. But first thing I would do is get the balanced properly and see if that alleviates the problem.

 

@Battyboy3 do you have any more info on the wheels you got?

 

so @Styx586 for non hub centric wheels, what would be the proper way to balance them?

 

Mounted at the lug holes.

 

well from what I have gathered soft 8's are lug centric and not hub centric. which in turn means they were technically balanced the correct manner if I'm not mistaken. as long as he had conical style lugs he shouldn't need the hubcentric ring for his rims.

 

Correct. I don't know anything about "Soft 8s" but if the are lug centric, then they were properly balanced. Most wheels nowadays though are not lug centric so I just assumed they were hub centric.

 

Lots of good advice here. I once had a similar problem right after I left Discount Tire after a tire rotation. Went back the next day and they said their wheel balancer was "out of calibration".

 

I just did a quick google search to find out lol so i'm assuming where I got the info was correct. maybe he doesn't have conical lugs and no hub centric ring? haha doubtful but I suppose its a possibility. I'm also assuming the road force balance was done properly lol

 

These are the rims I got

 

yeah those are the ones I found info on, lug centric not hub centric which means you should have a hub centric ring

 

I don't have one so how do I know what size gun ring to get

 

So the spacers are hub centric, but are the wheels hub centric to the spacers?

I would try lossening everything and retorque with the wheels in the air. Somebody will need to hold the brake for you while you torque.

Take it for a drive and see if anything changes.