Anything welding

You should buy Welders based on things that will make your work better or faster. Whether it's easy to steal really shouldn't be a factor. That's why you have security doors and other theft deterants. I'll take a dynasty with all its extra features any day over a syncrowave of the same amperage, even though the dynasty is much smaller and easier to steal.

 

We have piles of dynasties at work, they are nice. My 15 year old transformer welder (precision tig180) sits in garage from temps of 30deg C to -30 C, I just dont feel the inverter welders appreciate that kind of stuff, they are basically computers. We gave away a burt out xmt305 at work as new boards were well over $3000 and our cost is less than $4000. Bells and whistles are nice, but I can weld just fine without them. Purchase price and durability are the most important for me so im still happy with the old girl.

 

It would be pretty easy to swap out to a larger breaker and outlet as long as the wire is able to handle it. You would use 10 gauge (10/2) which should be orange sheathed. (yellow is 12 gauge). I only say sheathed since i have no clue how old your house it lol. But if its 10 gauge it would be a matter of swapping the outlet and breaker to 30amp stuff. If the wire isnt the right gauge....well then its a bit more complicated.

 

I was just gonna post this.

Here's to hoping the wire is 10/2.

 

Hopefully it is for home! I know the 20amp 220v stuff in my home they used 12 gauge on though Probably depends on the electrician at the time though.


Adding a 220V 30amp line wouldnt be to difficult if he has room in the panel though. Its what I did for mine.

 

Finished up the wastegate pipe on my up pipe tonight. I hadnt made any progress on my build in a month and the guy that has been finishing everything is tied up for anither 2 weeks or so, so im doin all i can to wrap this fabbin up. There is a lot of splatter and its not the greatest looking but a flap disk will help everything in that department.

 

So I need to run a new outlet anyways to the other side of the shop. I have plenty of 12guahe to run it but was told it wouldnt handle 30amps and that I need 8guage. I plan on running a 30amp breaker and outlet so I'll need to swap my miller connector to a 30 amp correct?

Edit. Since I'm having to wire it should I make It all 50amps

 

To start I am not an electrician and don't know your local codes.

With that out of the way....10 gauge is the minimum for a 30amp line. If it's a long run (like over 50 feet) then stepping up to 8 gauge is a good idea.

As for just doing 50amp....I wouldnt but that's just me. I look at it kind of like a car fuse. You don't want to plop a 20amp fuse on a circuit needing 2.5amp cause you could damage the component and it defeats the purpose of a fuse. But that's my thought on it.

 

gotcha. Ill need about 30 ft to the outlet. Ill go ahead and buy some 8 guage since i would still have to buy 10 and play it save with the 8 guage. im planning to go to 30 amps for the outlet and breaker.

 

That's a good plan.

 

Just because you upgrade the wire and plug to handle 50amps does not mean you need to use a 50 amp breaker.

I looked to increasing the electrical load in the future so all my circuits are wired to handle 50 amps at this time two circuits run 30 amp breakers .

Growing up with tube and knob wiring and a 60 amp service breakers are so nice

 

While my brother is in town who is a welder by trade. We made him some sliders. Welder did awesome. Everything is tacked together for now and we need to add additional bracing for the front loop. Learned a lot about fabrication today. Bought a 100$ hydraulic pipe bender at harbour freight that did awesome lol. Insteadd of using 4 mounting points to the frame. We bought a long piece of angle iron and notched it for the rivits on the frame and will weld it as one piece.
Please feel free to critique

 

Uh, oh. You're screwed now!

Just kidding,you just opened your eyes to the whole, new world of fabrication. You will constantly find yourself telling your self "I can do that, but better and cheaper"

 

Haha. It's funny because recently I look at a lot of thing and think that. Lol.

 

Looks good so far! Only thing i would suggest is adding small pieces from the square tube to the tube in line with the frame connecting square tube. If that makes sense.

Be more support on that outer tubing for lateral hits

 

I think so lol. We plan to add some small pieces from the square pipe connecting to the round tube that would take all the lateral hits. Still need to get those cut and welded in on Thursday

 

I'd put another leg near the back too. Thats a lot of material unsupported once the truck weight gets put on it. It'll flex too much

 

So we got to welding more today. Sliders are done. Just need to be bedlined. However we ran into an issue. The plug on the machine has been very figgity. You have to play with it for it to make contact and to feed the wire. Is that something that can easily be fixed? Will that be a big issue to get fixed?

 

It looks like it is broke.

People tend to try unscrewing them at the wrong spot

if you can solder and use a Meter it is only two wires for the trigger

I sure would not use butt crimp Connectors

If you can`t find any local I have quite a few floating around

Then you might decide to get rid of that crappy Miller Gun and upgrade to a better one

 

I took the switch apart and one of the pins was almost torn off the cable. I was able to open the pin and recrimp it. Works like a charm now. Dont think my welding skills aren't good enough to notice the difference between the gun for now