3rd Gen Remote Start Using OEM Remote

Just statting some facts. Even if you uninstall the starter and there's evidence that a starter was installed you may still have issues. For example Toyota doesn't even want us to touch the data lines and the simple act of compromising the wires by soldering on to them or even shortening their length will require a new harness. It also comes down to the tech and service department. If the tech feels that what you have done could be causing an issue your own your own. Here's a good example, I had a 2016 Tacoma that came in with blind spot monitor issue. The system was shut down because it had U codes. I found a car starter installed and from that point on the repairs would be paid by the customer. The starter would have to be removed and in an unadulterated state before Toyota would pay for the repair.

Just something to think about when adding aftermarket electrical components. If you don't mine taking the risk and the component has good support the risk may be worth it.

 

Please don't misunderstand, what you've posted is valuable info and worth consideration. I just felt the initial post was a bit of doom and gloom.

Certainly with today's complicated vehicles and tightening financial margins, owners take a risk adding anything that could be deemed the cause of a problem.

Thanks for the heads up.

 

I reread my first post and fail to see the doom and gloom. I even offered an alternative to those wanting a car starter.

 

Interpretation is up to the reader. I didnt see it as doom and gloom but as informative. I am a glass half full type of person.

 

As SuperBad mentions, it's a matter of interpretation. For me the broad sweeping absoluteness of your "if you put in an aftermarket remote start your warranty for any fuel/electrical issues is done" seemed to be overstating matters.

I didn't see the extant, available to buy today, alternative you suggested? Part number please?

 

We all know it depends on your service advisor. I'll buy mine a bottle of bourbon etc when I bring it in...

 

welp, warranty be damned, the deed is done. Got a late start and spent way too much time flip flopping between how I wanted to mount and route everything. Ran out of light so will get pictures tomorrow. And the ole chin trick with the key fob works surprisingly well to extend your range.

 

You could make this argument about anything you do to the truck that's aftermarket. If people are really that concerned, then they shouldn't change anything until the warranty expires.

 

True, you have to judge the risk for yourself. When you add any kind of aftermarket electrical accessory and you bring it in for an issue first thing we do is hook up the techstream. If you have U codes Toyota will not pay the dealer for the repair if there is an aftermarket car starter installed. That leaves the customer paying.

 

This is a great point! Do what makes you happy and don't worry about the warranty. Most dealers try to weasel out of taking care of things under warranty anyways.

 

Please reread my post. I stated Toyota has no starter for Tacoma but expect one because they come out with new aplications every year.

It is absolute, Toyota will not warranty a vehicle with an aftermarket car starter installed if have an electical defect that results in communication problems or module issues.

 

... but that's not what your original post conveyed. At least not to me.

Of course if an aftermarket part causes an issue one shouldn't expect Toyota to warranty the repair.

I've stated my thoughts and you've stated yours. There's no reason to argue the matter further. Cheers.

 

I know I would fight Toyota on not honoring the warranty on the installation of a remote start and ask them to provide their proof of the remote start causing the issue. I believe this is the intent of the warranty law. There are also different warranty laws by state. I would start the process as soon as the dealer declined to work on truck under warranty.
I know this, not concerned with installing the DBALL 2, as it is a well know product. If you screw up the wiring that will be on you. Also as already stated the first thing I would do is remove the DBALL 2 if I had U codes. If still present then take in to Toyota. I take the chip out of my F350 first thing if having issues, then take to dealer. We already know about the below FTC Act.

"The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act makes it illegal for companies to void your warranty or deny coverage under the warranty simply because you used an aftermarket part.”

"The dealer/vehicle manufacturer has the right to deny a warranty repair but they must demonstrate that the aftermarket part caused the problem. The warranty remains in effect for all other covered parts."

Mine shipped today!

 

The problem will be at the dealer level. Your dealer will not get paid by Toyota to diagnose a possible problem that may be a result of a aftermarket car starter. If you can convince them at the dealer level to do the diagnosing on the hope that the starter isn't causing the problem, your golden. If they find that the issues is caused by the starter your going to have to pay the bill for the diagnostic time and repair. Why would Toyota pay to fix an issue not caused by the company. If you have communication problems (U codes) the first thing a tech has to do is disconnect the car starter to see if it's causing the issue. That where the problem lies, Toyota will not pay a dealer to remove the starter.

Also to add if your tap into any of the data lines and Toyota support feels that the damaged wire from your spice is causing communication issues, you would be on the hook for the repairs. Toyota is very strict with us when it comes to adulterating communication lines.

Im not saying that every starter will result is issues. It will come down to those hard to diagnose issues where tech support gets involved. Our own dealership also installed aftermarket car starters but the techs in the shop hate doing them. We know when there's an issue there's going to be a fight between the customer and Toyota and the dealership is always caught in the middle. The only reason our dealership does it is because more profit can be made installing an aftermarket starter than the Toyota starter. Customers also want as cheap as possible.

 

Understandable. I think what some of us are thinking and maybe not communicating well is the dealer isn't going to see the truck with the remote starter connected.

If I should have a problem during warranty period that could possibly be related, the first thing I'll do is disco the remote starter and see if it continues. We're talking two connectors; one 12 pin and one 14 pin. Pull those and the

$59 DBALL2 Databus All Combo Bypass Module

DBALL2 is out of the circuit. (technically I'd need to jumper the auto lights to bring it back to stock)

I'll also validate my wiring at the time to ensure there's no potential issues there.

Considering how many T-taps Southeast Toyota put into my truck for the port-install options I ordered, I'd be very surprised if my soldered connections created any issues.

EDIT: as a matter of perspective: I grew up with a dad whose hobby was rebuilding totaled cars. I studied electrical engineering in undergrad before focusing on computer science and I've been in the IT industry for thirty years. I also hold an Advanced class amateur radio license. So while I certainly don't have the expertise and perspective of an individual working daily as a Toyota technician, I'm also not entirely a newbie in such matters.

 

That's the best thing a customer can do, disconnect and see if your issue goes away. If the problem still persists remove the starter and all evidence that it was installed then bring it in for warranty. If the starter isn't there and you hide your work you should be OK.

Just on a side note, Toyota teaches it's techs not to solder wires. They feel that the solder connections cause the wires to become brittle and will eventually fail. This is Toyota's view and not mine.

 

Before I post in the marketplace, I figured I'd see if anyone here is interested in Nick's pre-voodoo kit. While waiting for the Chicago USPS to finally figure out how to ship it, I ordered and configured my own so I now have an extra one. My impatience is your gain. $65 shipped and will send it priority mail. Run-time is set for 20min but I can change it to anywhere from 1-60min if desired and I'll throw in 2' of the wrap-around tubing pictured below.

 

Would like to know why the 3M wire taps were mentioned as being good to use and now I get a email saying not to use them, was reason I bought the kit.

 

Simply because they didn't turn out to be 100% reliable, and we'd rather have people splice the wires rather than take a chance.

 

Probably good practice. Using scotchlock connectors on data busses is a recuperate for badness. I blew up my fancy chipped VW euro cluster with such.
Splice and solder only