Well that was weird, can anyone explain why this happened?..

perhaps you are thinking of a different product. Dielectric grease is for putting on the actual connection of electric flow.

 

I initially thought the same thing as well; however, @CurtB is correct. Applying dielectric grease to the connnectors themselves isn't the correct application at all as it is an insulator. Dielectric grease will interfere with the current flow and increase electrical resistance at the point of connection.

This video explains the proper use for the product really well:

https://youtu.be/yuKAmaIkA-U

 

Eggslackly! Although I'll bet a dollar to a donut that there will be some that argue. I wonder what "DI" means??

 

And here is one now.

 

all I can do Is laugh now. I've used it on absolutely every connection on my trucks, motorcycles and several outdoor solar connections, flashlight batteries, everything!
all these things connections corrode in this swamp air if they aren't treated. This grease totally prevents it.

can someone explain how it doesn't work or disrupts the connection? Because I have it on every connection and Not had a single problem. (although I haven't done a before and after check with a meter)

 

Didn't intend on that sounding rude.
I still think we are both talking about different products.

 

No, you are wrong. Dielectric grease is silicon and does NOT conduct current. It is an insulator.

I do not know what you are using. You can put it on the contacts and it may cause an increase in resistance and the device still work. But that isn't what it is for.

 

since there is so much controversy over it, I googled it.
I came up with vague directions from manufacturers and tons of forum conversations just like this one.

its quit interesting however, if you read above how I have used it, IT TOATLLY WORKS ON THE CONTACT POINTS AND DOESNT CAUSE A SINGLE PROBLEM.

WHAT I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IS, WHAT EVIDNECE DO YOU ALL HAVE THAT IS TELLING YOU HOW IT WILL DISRUPT THE CONNECTION.

I get it, theoretically silicone is an insulator, I GET IT, theoretically.

I am talking practically, where have you seen it used that it disrupted the contacts?????? BECAUSE IT DOESNT.

 

Chill man, it's 2017, we don't need to start off the year yelling.

 

I'm not yelling
this is how I talk. LMFAO

 

A Youtuber posted a video illustrating this with two sets of quick disconnect terminals linked up to a 12v test meter. One set of contacts were clean, while the other set coated in dielectric grease. The greased connection pulled slightly more current. I believe the video may still be posted.

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A few months ago I was of the same mindset. I coated all of my non-sealed accessory connections with dielectric grease. After being tipped off that this wasn't the proper application I did some research, agreed, and began degreasing my connections. I found that electrical connector cleaner - it's available at any auto parts store - breaks dielectric grease down and the aerosol applicator blasts it off of the connector itself, while cleaning the metal contacts at the same time.

On to disrupted contacts, I did notice that the female spade terminals on my H4 headlamp socket connectors displayed a heavy greenish film similar to what one would find on a old copper penny. I found the same film present on several relays (specifically the spade connections) located in a Hella relay socket terminal I installed under the hood roughly a year prior. All of these non-sealed connections were coated (incorrectly by me) with dielectric grease. I'll add that the film seemed to follow the exact point on the connection where I applied the dielectric grease, almost like a bath ring or something similar. I did not find this greenish substance on any other connections under the hood - connections that were not treated with the grease. After removing this film my headlamps were noticeably brighter. I believe this film was impeding the current flow to some extent. After cleaning any and all grease from these connections I have not seen the film return, and I just checked last week.

A clean metal-to-metal contact is going to offer the least amount of resistance/heat at the connection point. I really think you would be better off simply cleaning your connections with some type of dedicated contact cleaner once, or twice, a year depending on how much of a problem you're having with corroded terminals due to moisture, etc. If you feel the need to apply additional protection against moisture intrusion, consider applying the dielectric grease to the gasket or o-ring on the connector (similar to the spark plug application in the video above). I found this on Wikipedia (so take it for what it's worth - maybe look into the cited source):

Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the nonconductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector in cases where the contact pressure is very low. Products designed as electronic connector lubricants, on the other hand, should be applied to such connector contacts and can dramatically extend their useful life. Polyphenyl Ether, rather than silicone grease, is the active ingredient in some such connector lubricants.

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I'll also add, if you install your own electronic accessories, consider picking up a Delphi Weatherpack quick disconnect kit. It's well worth the initial buy in for the crimpers and components. I install Weatherpacks on all of my accessories (to include aux lights). I have yet to find one of my Weatherpacks comprised - and I have never seen any signs of corrosion or moisture intrusion in one of my Weatherpack connectors.

 

However, I did find this on Youtube five minutes ago:

https://youtu.be/GNiEJfgS8cE

That's straight from CRC. The comments section is what you would expect after reading this thread... CRC replied to one of the comments stating that dielectric grease is pressed so thin between the connections that it doesn't impede current flow. However, the firsthand tests I have seen show that it does.

I say do what works for you and be happy. I've made the decision to stop using it on my connections, but if it works for your application, go for it.

...I should rename this thread the Dielectric Grease Debate.


For anyone who came here regarding my original post and got lost along the way, I fixed the original issue by replacing all of my ECU/ignition fuses. I'm fairly certain the ECU fuse was the culprit.

 

If you get it that it is an insulator and that it is not the intended purpose of the product to be applied to electrical contacts, Then there is nothing left to discuss.

Use it however you like, your call.

 

Replacing a 4yo battery is not "throwing money around". Its called "scheduled maintenance".

 

My stock battery was actually holding up well - it was holding a charge and charging fine. It wasn't the issue in this equation. Read the thread.

However, I did replace it with a Group 31 AGM due to my need for deep cycle power (fridge, LED camp lights, etc...).