Icon stage 3 with aftermarket bumper and Winch?

Who said anything about requiring 35's? I got them for more sidewall and I think they look better.

Let's be honest. 99% of the wheeling 3rd gen owners do probably don't require more than a stock height tire.

 

I agree, this seems pretty cut and dry. Dude was fine until he added a couple of hundred pounds extra to the nose and now it rubs. Needs stiffer front springs because he's lost ride height.

I mean, depending on articulation he probably could have made it rub without the xtra noseweight, but still. He's got more weight on the front than the lift accounted for.

 

Can't wait to see the posts about leaking seals and trying to get a new steering rack under warranty.

 

How do cv angles change when going from one height (2.5") to the same 2.5" height?

Since when does a 2.5" lift destroy cv's? If that was the case there would be hundreds of threads complaining about cv boots as opposed to auto trans shifting issues.

 

You must be new to long term effects on lifting above 2 inches on IFS Toyota's and maintaining proper CV angles.

Never been a fan of trucks needing 285 tires for offroading, the extra weight per corner and what needs to be done to the truck to clear that size to me was never worth the claimed benefit of "added height". 265 at a 1-1.5 in lift is the sweetspot for performance and reliability in probably 95% of most offroading situations unless you want to go rock crawling in a solid axle buggy.

But hey, it's his money, his truck and his life lesson to learn that not always bigger or higher is always better.

 

There are however significantly more tire options in the 35 range though. I have been quite dissatisfied by the selection of available tires.

 

I appreciate all the feedback. I dont know a lot about cv boots but right now it rides great. Its just off road i do still make contact on the fender.


As you can see on the rust colored part anymore cutting and im gonna loose the bolt. maybe a little more on the outside edge?

 

Gotta clear them venti brouchinnos under the axles.

 

Not quite but hoping to clear your lady. I'd imagine no amount of lift is gonna clear that.

 

Below the belt!!!

 

To the OP, you can go up to a 700 spring to help clear the tires for offroading but the problem is always going to be that 285 tire getting stuffed into the wheel well and it's always going to rub. You've maxed out the coilovers to get additional height but you really don't get the best performance out of a coilover when its spun up to its highest setting. Coilovers are best at midsettings to adjust for left and right height differences. You paid alot of money for them, use them to their best advantage. That's why I said to consider going down a tires size or two so if you stuff a wheel into a wheel well doing some extreme offroading, the tire will fit into the well better. 275 or better a 265 tire will get plenty of articulation in that wheelwell with minimal rub, you can even go with a mud tire in that size for more grab

Many 1st and 2nd gen owners had problems with premature cv boot failure and contamination due to lifting IFS trucks beyond 2 -2.5 inches so the norm was 2 inch or less unless you did a diff drop to correct those cv angles to prevent wear if going higher.

I honestly think if you drop down a size in tire, go up a spring rate to compensate for added weight of the bumper, winch and armor the back down on the coilover collar height your offroad needs will be met. You will also have a smoother riding truck, more throttle response without having to regear and more reliability in your suspension because you're not at full travel just to clear tires.

 

Thanks buddy.
After hearing the concerns of the cv boot im gonna stick with the 2.5 inch lift. She rides better than stock right now no body roll like stock and do not want to degrade the ride quality. I will probably try trimming some more fender and it will be fine. I just gotta stop pre-running rocky terrrain like a bat out of hell. Life is short drive it like you stole it!
My jeep loves her 35's but shes getting sold. Gotta get more cash for more mods.

 

While this is a very helpful post, I want to add one thing that I feel isn't entirely correct. If you have the correct backspacing and the correct alignment specs, you can fit a 285 without cutting a whole lot. Yes, even off road. I think I had to cut a tiny piece of plastic that would rub and full lock/full stuff.

 

Did I mention I like real rubbing. especially from a hot taco.

 

Yes you can make a 285 fit, my post was to try and optimize his suspension for reliability.

 

OP, I have stage 6, and encountered exactly the same issue as you. I have 285/70r17 duratracs, icon lift, and added a heavier battery and SSO slimline front bumper with 10k winch. My driver side had to crank all the way to max and still didn't sit level with passenger, and both very obviously did not have the lift they needed. Total bummer I know.

A few things I made sure to do which straightened everything out for me:

1) Make sure to get a good alignment, before trimming. What is your caster? Adding some positive caster will help the tire sit forward if you are rubbing the rear fender.

2) TRIM. Even with heavier springs, get rid of some of that fender. I will post some pics at the bottom with what I did to trim.

3) Get the Icon 700 lb 14 inch springs. These are 1 inch longer than standard, and hold the weight better. The Icon stage kits come with 650 lb 13 inch springs, which in my opinion don't quite fit the weight profile of a 3rd gen front end, especially once you add even a little weight. You will absolutely need these if you are adding steel skids.

Everybody thinks there is a single solution to lifts and rubbing, but it's really a factor of lift height, alignment, and wheel offset. At the end of the day, with 285s, trimming is probably going to happen if you are heavily off roading.

HTH.
B.

 

A little late after the purchase, but can always go skinny... If you are looking for a bit more clearance for the diff you'll get that without rubbing with 255/85R16s or 255/80R17s. If you are hitting a lot of mud or really like the look of fatter tires then stick with the 285 and get the 700lb coils (about $200 from Icon). Personal opinion, but the amount of work that will go into making 35s fit properly doesn't make sense to me. Although babes will find you at least 34% more appealing (source: science).

 

Could you tell any difference in ride with the 700lb springs? I'll be adding a bumper (less than 100 pounds) and a winch in the next month or so. Right now my icons are cranked up somewhere between what they shipped at and their max setting.

With those coils you suggest I should be able to back off the preload even from what I have it set at. Based on that I think it might ride a little better. But I don't know how that extra capacity spring plays a role.

 

Awesome !!!
This is what I was talking about . It looks like you took a little more and basically got rid of that lower nut. Are you having any issues with that nut/bolt being gone?
I had it aligned and told the shop I need more caster but they told me its set to stock specs. Frustrating they wouldnt just give me a little more to push the wheel forward. That seems like it would alleviate the issue. thank you for the pics also, great job!! I do have the 650 lb springs and Icon told me the same get the 700 lb springs. My issue is its my daily driver and sending them in to get new springs set is a problem. Grrr. Might have to rent or is this something I can do with a spring compressor? The cheap ones bought at local auto parts store? thanks again for your help!!!

 

Lol the chicks dig it your right. Plus the fat ones have trouble trying to get in when I'm not looking.